Hendry Napa Blocks 4 & 5 Pinot Noir 2004

Hendry has released another serious Napa Pinot Noir, another vintage to think about, born from real terroir, and worth the over $30 pricetag. It's not necessarily for everyday or everyone, but it is a special bottle for Pinot Noir enthusiasts.

In August 2004, I visited Hendry and asked, "How do you make a serious Pinot Noir?"  Answer: "The vines have to struggle.  That’s what it’s all about, make them suffer a bit". Particularly during August, as the grapes hang in wait, the vineyard manager must maintain a certain level of stress in the vines if the fruit are going to express their character and terroir. The best vineyard locations challenge the vines with lean rocky soil and very little rain as the grapes mature. Yes, the vines are irrigated and given nutrition, but only what is necessary. A big rain late in the season will cause the grapes (berries) to swell, and produce a dilute wine.

Could it be that personal struggle makes for great wine?

The 115-acre Hendry Ranch, which today makes some uniquely impressive wines, was founded out of personal struggle. George Hendry, who presides over the vineyard and winery, was quite young when his father died. Very soon after buying the ranch, the main breadwinner was gone. Interested parties circled waiting for a chance to take the ranch. George’s mother Margaret was a strong schoolteacher with two children in tow. She succeeded in keeping the ranch together. George took multiple degrees in physics and made a career of cyclotron physics.

Now, George’s nephew Mike is the Vineyard Manager. Mike, also a physicist by training, and George approach the task of making great wines with scientific method and a healthy respect for the unpredictability of nature.

Then, there is the unique terroir of the ranch. The acreage sits on a bench between Napa Valley and Carneros. The elevation and proximity to the cooler bay area give the vines additional hang time. Most varietals can prosper in this location.

The Hendrys divided the ranch into many small blocks. Each block is harvested, fermented and aged separately. The goal is a better understanding of the variables influencing the finished product. Processed separately, blocks are blended only just prior to bottling, after much tasting, analysis, and debate amongst George, Mike and partners Susan Ridley and Jeff Miller.

Mike Hendry reports the yield in Pinot Noir Blocks 4 & 5 averaged only 1.5 tons per acre in '04. Natural yeasts and stainless steel were used for fermentation, followed by malolactic fermentation in barrels and then 11 months aging in 1/2 new French oak barrels. Production: 880 cases. Alcohol level is 14.8%.

Color: Deep ruby transparent. Aromas: Delicate floral, clove, vanilla and bourbon scents accent the cherry and plum fruit essences. Medium-bodied and really quite tart/acidic, the cranberry, cherry and cocoa flavors fade out into a dry, rustic, gravelly finish.

Closure: Real cork. Very nice value ($35).

Winewaves has recommended several Hendry wines, including 2003 Pinot Noir.