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August 31, 2006

Premium 3 Liter Bag-in-Box California Chardonnay: Trove 2005 & Delicato 2005

We have a lot more choices these days when it comes to good quality everyday wine packaged in a bag-in-box format.  This is a response to quickly changing attitudes about wine packaging in the USA.  The box used to mean "cheap"  and "unsophisticated" wine was inside, but this is changing fast.  Lately I've noticed more than a few good wine customers mixing in the newer premium 3 Liter boxes.  Following their lead, I stocked our refrigerator with several premium 3 Liter Chardonnays and began tasting and taking notes. 

Premium 3 Liter Bag-in-Box California Chardonnay - Trove 2005 & Delicato 2005

The result?  No wonder premium 3 Liter Boxes are growing so fast.  The quality is there for the everyday "house wine" context, and having wine-in-the-box makes the household "bar management" task easier and less expensive.  You always have something fresh and open in stock, you don't have to be concerned about waste, and you don't have to open better bottles if the situation doesn't justify it.

Delicato Chardonnay Bota 2005 - Tasting Notes: Color: Pale straw. A light crisp styled Chardonnay, with applesauce and hints of butter on the nose, the flavors are tropical and the finish is nice and dry.  Alcohol content: 13.5%.  Excellent value ($14/3.0 Liter = $3.50/750ml equivalent).

The Indelicato family owns 10,000+ acres of vineyards near Lodi and along the Central Coast.  The family has been making wine for 75+ years, and has caught a big wave with its Delicato and Kingfish Bota (3 Liter Box) lines.  In addition to their fast growing labels, they have a huge bulk business.  Chris Indelicato is CEO, not to mention grandson of founder Gasparé Indelicato.

Trove Chardonnay Box 2005 - Tasting Notes: Color: Light golden straw. Roundly textured, rich, somewhat tropical aromas (think pineapple-upside- down-cake), somewhat oak-spiced, this Chardonnay is medium-bodied and has nice concentration.  Alcohol content: 13.5%.
Excellent value ($18/3.0 Liter = $4.50/750ml equivalent).

Constellation Brands introduced Trove in early 2006, responding to the current approximately 500% growth rate in the premium 3.0 Liter Box business year-over-year.  Constellation also owns Blackstone and Black Box, and the success of these brands must have figured into the birth of Trove.  Trove is 100% Chardonnay from the North Coast and Central Coast regions.

Comments

More and more of these alternative packages are showing up. I think it indicates consumer demand for wine at a price for everyday drinking. It might also reflect a trend to drink in smaller amounts. My wife and I have trouble killing a bottle with dinner at night (especially those high alcohol reds). There is always a twinge of guilt and remorse when we don't finish something that cost a bit. Nitrogen dispensing units let restaurants increase their wines by the glass, boxes let you draw off smaller amounts at home. The added benefit is that no one thinks you're a snob if your wine comes out of a box. I haven't done it yet, but I'm tempeted to pour some boxed wine up into an empty bottle or a decanter, serve it to friends and get their unbiased response.
The Wall St. Journal couple recently reviewed house brands, including some boxes. They turned us on to the Target wine cube that comes in a 250cc box. The articles's at: http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/06181/702443-34.stm

Bought a box tonight. Opened the cardboard, positioned the spigot and it began to pour.... can't turn it off. What's good about that?

Response to Jeanne: I haven't experienced the leaking spigot problem, but I'm sure it happens. Not everyone knows it, but stores will accept returns when a wine is flawed such as this packaging problem. Take it back to the store, even if you have to put it in a trash bag to avoid getting the wine all over you and the car.

By the way, if you get a wine that has an off flavor from a bad cork, don't drink it, put that cork back in it and take it back for an exchange.

Don't keep shopping at a store if they won't take an obviously flawed wine back for exchange or credit. You can't expect a store to accept a return just because you didn't like a wine, but if the workmanship is flawed, they should take it back. -Jerry

The lady in my life and I recently purchased a boxed 3 liter package of Trove California Chardonnay. Needless to say, the wine is terrific with a very distinct finish to it. It stays fresh for quite a while and maintains it's consistency until that package is empty. I went to purchase more and was told by the vendor that the Chardonnay outsells their other varieties. Putting 3 or 4 backup boxes in stock will be the rule of thumb in the future for us. This wine is highly recommended.

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