CMS Red by Hedges Columbia Valley Red 2004

Whenever I travel to Seattle, it seems like I get stuck on I-5, stuck on I-405, stuck in Everett, I get chilled to the bone but I still don't feel cool, and alas, I'm a tea drinker in a coffee town.  But the availability of amazing wine always raises my spirits even in the face of "rising damp".   Of course, the grapes are all grown east of the Cascades, well beyond Snoqualmie Pass, but a lot of it is made in the area around Seattle, like Hedges in Issaquah.

Among the growing purple rush known as the Washington wine business, the Hedges are a family who know how to pack an enormous amount of world class into a wine bottle, and you can afford their good taste.  Tom Hedges is a "savvy businessman" who long ago wisely partnered with an equally well-informed and worldly wife Anne-Marie, a native of France.  They've been in the business for eons compared to the latecomers, but they haven't rested on their laurels.

They were wise enough to recognize Tom's savant brother Pete as their force to be reckoned with, tapping him as chief winemaker in 2002.  Pete believes that rock solid well-structured wines are the price of entry at the global level, even at a bargain price.  Together they bring the absolute best crop that Washington State has to offer to market.

They specialize in Bordeaux blends that could pass for double or even 3-4 times the price in Napa Valley, if you could coax out the complex and finessed alchemy from such a heated southern source.  But hey Jack, all that plump might just be yesterday's news.

Pete Hedges reports the composition of their bargain-priced 2004 CMS Red is 57% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Syrah.  The blend is rather complex in terms of grape sourcing, with 1/5 Red Mountain fruit, and other sources included O'Brien and Willard vineyards in Yakima Valley, Destiny Ridge in Horse Heaven Hills, plus a number of Columbia Valley vineyards.  The fruit was picked over 8 weeks, from the beginning of September to the end of October, reflecting the wide range of ripening dates in Washington State.  Aging was up to 1 year in 80% French and 20% American oak barrels.  Cases produced: 34,000.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby with bright edges and a slight haze.  Aromas: Blackberry, black cherry, smoky lightly toasty and bacony oak, with hints of black licorice and black coffee.  The mouthfeel is almost full-bodied with bold gravelly tannins.  The elegant black fruit is well-balanced with the Red Mountain structure and the finish is firm with fine oak overtures.

Outstanding value ($11).  Closure: "Neocork".  Alcohol content: 13.5%.

In 2006, Winewaves raved about two Hedges wines, Three Vineyards Red Mountain Red 2003 and bargain-priced Hedges CMS White Columbia Valley 2005.

Food pairing: Wood-fired roasted chicken with all the trimmings.

Comments

[Adam Kent Neely]

I had just bought a bottle to try, and was recommended it, as to what I was able to explain to him at my best, in what I like in a nice red wine.

It is def. a favorite now, and would like to buy more.

Is there a way that I can do this online, and have it shipped to me?????

[cribtales]

A delicious wine. I was surprised by its full flavor at such an economical buy! I'm an ex-Washingtonian and this wine very much made me miss "home."

[Zoe Maisel]

Where are the liquor stores in NYC, who carry Hedges by CMS Cab/Merlot/Syrah? I love it--trying to purchase for myself. Anthing you can do to help, would be appreciated.

[William]

OMG! One of the best wines I have ever had. I bought it at my local butcher shop. He carries a nice selection of fine wines ranging from 13.99- 139.99. I have to say I bought this and went back the next day and bought another bottle. I would love to buy a case of it. I live in Annapolis, MD and i'm so glad I gave it a chance! For the money it's awesome. In fact I would put it up against those High end Nothern Cali wines any day of the week.