Bergevin Lane Vineyards Calico Red 2004

Calico Red isn't an ordinary tame pussycat. She has a strong personality and will cozy up to her keepers but also keep the strays out of the yard.

Bergevin Lane is a relatively young story, an early indication of the influx of the hip Californian and beyond crowd who are following global warming north to the new hot spot in wine, Walla Walla. Talk about quirk, in Walla-squared you will find everything from a good old fashioned hotel to a real drug store on the square to boutique wineries and citified bistros. Walla Walla was abuzz in wheat 100 years ago and is again in grapes, and best of all, there is still some real un-retouched charm left to enjoy here.

I heard about Bergevin Lane at Backstage Bistro in DTW2 (Downtown Walla Walla) while noshing almost alone on some incredible cedar plank salmon this past last Tuesday night of January. The winery of two women is a "must" stop I was told. Unfortunately I was on a short leash and had to high-tail it out of town the next morning, but I spotted their Calico at Pete's in Seattle and their rare Cab Franc at Vino Volo in Sea-Tac Airport and brought them home. There will be a return trip to W2, soon if I have anything to do with it.

Proprietors Annette Bergevin & Amber Lane opened their doors in 2001, and moved into their modern industrial winery building in 2003. The Bergevin Lane partners have annealed relationships with growers in top vineyards in Walla Walla, Wahluke Slope, Horse Heaven Hills and other catbird seats in Columbia Valley. The counterpoint masculine touch is imparted by Annette's father Gary Bergevin, founding partner of Canoe Ridge, new winemaker Steffan Jorgensen and consultant Gordy Hill.

Bergevin Lane Calico Red 2004 reflects the personality of its lucky female proprietors and is credited to former Bergevin Lane winemaker Virginie Bourgue who recently left to marry Andrew Lodmell and make Lodmell Cellars wine. Calico is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel and Cab Franc. Only 2500 cases of this cuvee were produced, sourced from the likes of the Alder Ridge, Stone Tree, Les Collines and Lonesome Spring Ranch vineyards to name a few. Aging of lots included French, American and Neutral oak barrels.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep candy apple red with bright cherry edges, translucent. Aromas: Pungent mixed red to black berry and currant essences merge with espresso and masculine oak spice. Very young, sturdy and warming with substantial tannins, the brambly, peppery and ample syrupy fruit combine with cedary oak flavor in a kick of a finish.

Excellent value ($18). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.3%

Food pairing: Drink up with a great sandwich such as a Boar's Head black forest turkey and Vermont white cheddar on toasted whole wheat; but you could also go anywhere with this red blend.