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February 14, 2007

Bruno Tait Barossa Ball Buster Shiraz 2005

Bruno Tait prefers to make wines that are generous and full of personality, taking advantage of low-yielding old Barossa vines and extracting all the fruit has to offer. The Ball Buster is loaded and concentrated as the name suggests but also sweet-natured and more immediately approachable than you might guess.

Bruno Tait Barossa Ball Buster Shiraz 2005

Tait's successful formula appears to mirror his personality and that of his family who has been involved in cooperage and winemaking for generations. Bruno's and his Brother Michael's father Giovanni, a third generation cooper came to Barossa Australia from Italy in the late-1950s. Michael and Bruno and Bruno's wife Michelle purchased the Tait winery and vineyard property in 1994 to continue the family tradition on their own terms.

The combined largess and consonance of The Ball Buster 2005 seems to owe itself to Bruno's selectivity for highly concentrated all-Barossa fruit and his gentle winemaking which includes using a traditional basket press. The blend is 82% Shiraz, plus 9% each Cabernet and Merlot. Coming at winemaking from a family of coopers, aging is a forte of Tait's. The Ball Buster lots received an average of about 12 months in old and some new oak barrels prior to final blending.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple cranberry with a nice haze, semi-opaque. Aromas: Black and blue berry and lots of freshly roasted mixed nuts, cinnamon/spice and wafts of pralines. On the tongue, plenty of warm spice and fruit sweetness are balanced by a full body, lots of tannins and a chalky dryness. The jammy black and blue fruit, orange rind and caramelized nut flavors reverberate in the ultra dry finish.

Outstanding value ($19).  Closure: Screw cap.  Alcohol content: 15.5%.

Bruno's story on the back label is that he is looking for a wine to name in his wife's honor, "Michelle's Block", but this one was surely not that wine. Might we see a more elegant Tait creation added to the lineup bearing Michelle's name in the future?

Comments

Hi Jerry,

There's been a lot of debate amongst Aussie Winemakers as to whether 2004 or 2005 was better for Australian wines. I've spoken to or heard from some of the best, including: Ben Glaetzer, Dave Powell, Chris Ringland, Michael Twelftree & Charles Cimicky. I have tried around 15-20 labels in which I've had both the 2004 & 2005 and I myself am still torn. We at 3wineguys.com reviewed the 2004 B-Buster on one of our podcasts last year. Phenomenal! Those who tried the 2004 Ball Buster and loved it, may be slightly disappointed with the 2005. The '04 was huge and exploded from the glass with flavor. The wine took seconds to open up and was immense with black fruit and spice flavors. The '05, as I tried it several months ago, was muted and did not yet have the punch or kick to truly bust one's balls. After reading your description, I look forward to going back to the '05. Fans of this style wine should look out for De Lisio's Quarterback. A Quartage that is flavorful, dense & complex. Later!

Thanks El Stevo,
I've only tasted a few Australian reds in both vintages, and a I would say the Winner's Tank Shiraz '04 ranked higher than the '05, but then the less expensive Bitch Grenache '05 and Pillar Box Blend '05 ranked a little higher than the '04s. I haven't have the '04 Ball Buster or De Lisio Quarterback. I'll be on the lookout for De Lisio -Jerry

Can anyone please advise where I might find this wine in Ontario, Canada.
I recently experienced Tait, the Ballbuster in Edmonton and loved it.... but cannot get it at my local LCBO

The Trialto Wine Group is importing this wine to Ontario -- email me at irubin@calibrium.com and we'll set you up with an order.

Cheers!

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