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February 15, 2007

Powers Winery Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001

On my second trip to Vino Volo at the Seattle Tacoma Airport, my first flight was Columbia Valley Cabernets*, which included this find. Tasty it was, and my favorite of the three wines even though priced lowest. Unbeknownst to me, the wine was made from some very pedigreed grapes.

Powers Winery Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001

Bill Powers is on the short list of those with access to fruit from the Champoux Vineyard in Horse Heaven Hills, five miles from the Columbia River. That list includes the likes of Quilceda Creek, Andrew Will and Soos Creek, all of whom produce highly in demand and powerful Cabs from Champoux Vineyard grapes.

Powers has lived in Washington State most of his life, and started out as an orchard grower about 50 years ago. In the 1980s he switched to grapes and planted Badger Mountain Vineyard. He was joined by his son Greg in 1982 and then by partner Tim DeCook in 1983. Badger Mountain went organic in the late 1980s, and today that label produces all organic wines, some with no sulfites added, and are widely considered some of the healthiest wines on the market.

Bill and his son Greg also produce wines under the Powers Winery label which are not made from organic grapes. The Powers label gives them the opportunity to work with other growers and properties like Paul and Judy Champoux and their 35-year-old vineyard.

The 2001 vintage was Winemaker Greg Powers' first vintage for Champoux Vineyard Reserve Cabernet, and it was a great year to start out with. Powers did not hurry to get this Cab to market, aging the lots separately and only assembling final blend in 2005, then placing the cuvee into new French oak barrels for 9 months longer. Finally satisfied that it was ready, Powers bottled it in May 2006. Cases produced: 750.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby, semi-opaque. Aromas: Pungent sweet cherry, plum and cassis liqueur is joined by caramelized oak and spicy vanilla. The body is medium to full and nicely rounded off from the passing of time. Spicy and oaky dry on the tongue, the cherry pie, vanilla and hints of sweet basil echo nicely in the warm finish.

Excellent value: $23. Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Food pairing: Pan-seared New York Strip steak.

*The other two excellent wines in the Columbia Valley Cabernets flight were: Basel Cellars Old Vine Cabernet 2004 ($36/bottle) and Woodward Canyon Artist Series #12 Cabernet 2003 ($45/bottle). Before enjoying this flight, I warmed up with the Yakima Valley Whites flight, which included three beauties: Kestrel Old Vine Chardonnay 2005 ($27/bottle), Wilridge Elephant Mountain Vineyard Viognier 2005 ($21/bottle), and Kana Elerding Vineyard Rousanne 2003 ($23/bottle). All showed well but the Kestrel Chardonnay was my favorite.

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