Cambiata Laumann Estate Monterey Albarino 2005

There are trendsetters and then there are people who are so far out ahead of the wave that they may be looked upon as downright offbeat. Eric Laumann is adept at making more expected wines while crushing and blending for Monterey Wine Company. But his personal family project, the Cambiata label, involves growing and making Albarino and Tannat. Albariño is THE white wine of Galicia in Spain and Tannat is a unique and heady red wine that makes for an great bit of wine trivia. You will typically only find it being grown and made into wine in the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains, in the southwest corner of France.

I have no doubt that Albariño has lots of upside potential because it occupies the right sensory position and we're all looking for something different from Chardonnay in a white wine. And then there's the wanderlust factor. Many of us would love to take a tour of northwest Spain but opt instead for the bottle of wine. But very few have considered growing and making Albariño in California. Why not? More power to Eric Laumann and Cambiata.

You may be interested to know that Laumann once worked for another "offbeat" character in the California wine world, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon, who also grows a bit of Albariño and blends it.

Very nice Value ($22). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.8%. Cases produced: 400+.

Style: Exotic, juicy round, intensely fruity and refreshingly dry.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale straw with a greenish tint. Aromas: Intense peach plus tangerine, lemon and hints of cold blossoms. On the tongue the mouth feel is medium-bodied, approaching fat yet with excellent acidity. The rich tree fruit and lemony citrus flavors finish lush yet dry.

Comment: You might spend less for an Albariño from Spain or Portugal, but surely curiosity alone will make you want to try this one.

Winewaves reviewed Laumann's Poppy Pinot Noir 2005, a wine he makes for Monterey Wine Company. The bottle of Cambiata Albariño 2005 tasted for this review was provided by the winery.