Bodegas Alto Almanzora Este 2005

Este, or 090 degrees on the compass, is a sleeper. After tasting from 3 or 4 bottles of the 2005 vintage, I continue to be impressed with the intense aromatics and the fireworks display of fruit in the mouth.

Bodegas Alto Almanzora Este 2005 can boast an 89 point rating from Wine Advocate and the good wine-keeping seal of approval that is implied with any wine imported by Eric Soloman. It's beyond me why Este isn't a swifter seller here in Nashville. Perhaps it's our desire to know the grape variety, which is conspicuously missing from Este's label. The blend is proprietary but is believed to contain 60% Monastrell (Mourvedre), 10% Garnacha and 10% Tempranillo, plus smaller amounts of 3 other grapes we all know (Cab, Merlot and Shiraz). Describing the synonyms of Monastrell is enough to put some people off a wine that's not Cabernet, Merlot or Shiraz. Yes, maybe it's a grape identity crisis. Or it could be we don't know where Valle del Almanzora is. (It's located in southeastern Spain.) It's not on our radar of impressive places of origin.

Whatever the reason, there is still 2005 Este to be bought for under $10. (The 2006 is perhaps even better according to Wine Advocate, as reviewer Jay Miller gave it 90 points.) The 2005 is drinking superbly right now. Think about anything off the summer grill, from hot dogs to burgers to chicken to sausages and wash those thoughts down with a glass of Este. If you're a bear of a wild salmon eater, take a break from Pinot Noir. Here's a great quaff for wild Coho, especially if you like to do the cedar plank technique.

The aroma is intense, slightly perfumed, with lots of red fruit and seductive undertones of vanilla and wood spice. There's a purity to the aroma that can't be described singularly. You might pick up cherry cola when you taste it, but with lots of backbone and assertiveness. The finish is dusty dry and sticks around nicely. This is definitely a more elegant wine, with lots more going on, than you expect. Especially if you aren't sure what to expect.

The label features a simple, stylized drawing of an Andalusian mare. Also known as the purebred Spanish horse, the Andalusian dates back 20,000 years in this area of Spain. These are an intense, agile and elegant breed, an thus an appropriate symbol for this wine. If you see Este at a good price, don't hesitate. It's an exceptional red blend.

Price: $10 (Nashville). Closure: Plastic cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Comments

[AJ]

Great wine tip with regard to paying attention to the importer. E. Solomon is a very solid importer.