In California, before prohibition, wine growers planted their vineyards with mixed varieties, like quilt work. When it came time to harvest, they usually picked them all at the same time, even if all the grapes didn't have the same level of ripeness. And they co-fermented the crush, everything in the vat together. It was easier, and some people continue to say better, to get a blend to come together and reach a more seamless accord.
These "field blends" were Zinfandel dominated, because that was the star grape of the era in California. Other varieties typically found in these blends included Carignane, Petite Sirah (aka Durif), Alicante Bouschet, Peloursin, Syrah, and Barbera. There remain old vineyards, usually with head pruned vines, dotted around California, from Napa and Sonoma to Lodi. Once thought of as Zinfandel plantings, DNA testing has revealed many old Zinfandel vineyards include a supporting cast of other varieties. Each wine farmer planted their own proprietary combination, to produce a more harmonious and rounded end product in the barrel and bottle.
Alicante Bouschet was popular during prohibition because growers believed its thick skin made it a superior grape for transporting by rail to auction rooms in the east.
As an interesting side note, we can thank the White Zinfandel craze that began in the 1970's for preventing many old field blend vineyards from being ripped out in favor of the burgeoning Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay trade.
Now that we can determine what's in a vineyard, co-fermentation is not all that common. Most wines, even those that mimic old fashioned field blends, are picked and fermented in separate lots, then blended just before bottling. That gives the wine maker more degrees of freedom, leaves less up to chance, and it's just the modern way.
Just like Bordeaux blends have stood the test of time, so have these truly American Zinfandel blends. These blends also offer real bang for the buck, giving authentic personality to a casual everyday red wine. These are certainly amazing "spaghetti wines", and also do great justice to a seriously good pizza, anything mesquite grilled, or anything with a southwestern slant to it. And of course, they stand alone equally well.
Let's take a look at three that go beyond making the grade. All 3 of these blends share the same deep purple ruby color, almost opaque. They aren't drastically different in terms of aromas or flavors, either. They're all recommended.
Nine North Wine Co. Ten Mile Red 2005
Nine North Wine Company gives the 2004 vintage composition as 64% Petite Sirah, 18% Zinfandel, 8% Barbera, 8% Malbec and 2% Carignane.
This is the plummiest of the three, with lots of fresh cherry in the nose also. The undertones are spicy, in the direction of a Moroccan spice blend. The fruit is plummy and red on the tongue. You get that dusty structure, and a sense of licorice as the wine finishes.
Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.
Laurel Glen Lodi REDS 2006
Laurel Glen says Reds is comprised of 60% 70-year-old Zinfandel, 30% 116-year-old Carignane and the balance Petite Sirah.
Reds displays a bright raspberry nose from the get-go. You also get some roasted undertones akin to chocolate or mocha, and a hint of ground pepper. The fruit is lush, with more cocoa and pepper evolving on your tongue. The nice dusty (but not overwhelming) structure asserts itself as the wine finishes.
Price: $10 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.
Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot 46
Marietta doesn't give out its proprietary blend. Like one's age, sometimes it's best to keep it a secret. They do say the blend is primarily comprised of Zinfandel, with Petite Sirah and Carignane and smaller amounts of Cabernet and Syrah and "various other Italian varietals" rounding out the blend. Is this the most authentic "field blend" of the three?
Old Vine Red is the meatier, that is to say smokier, of the three. It's not overwhelming in the smoke department by any means, but there's more there. There is plenty of fruit in the nose and on the tongue, definitely a Zinfandel-like fusion of raspberry and dark cherry. The flavors are well integrated and it's the "jammiest" of the three. This is the fullest bodied of the 3 wines, with very smooth dusty tannins, and finishing with a touch of vanilla.
Price: $13 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.
If I had to rank the 3 wines, it would have to be put in context. None is a clear winner without a frame of reference. They're all recommended. But the Ten Mile Red would be my favorite with spicy food, along the lines of something with Moroccan spice, a curry, or cumin. Reds is my value priced favorite, if I'm on a tight budget, and it's my favorite to drink by itself or with a piece of dark chocolate or similar dessert. Old Vine Red would be my hands down favorite for spaghetti, pizza, burgers, or most casual cuisine. No wonder every lot of Old Vine Red has been completely allocated since 1978.
If you're thinking about testing these wines with some spaghetti, here's a sauce that's also recommended. Dave's Gourmet Red Heirloom spaghetti sauce is worth looking for. You can buy it online, or discover it as I did, at Marshall's off-price department store. Our heirloom tomatoes aren't ripe yet, so this sauce caught my eye. I like any jar variety spaghetti sauce whose first ingredient is "tomatoes", not "tomato puree". I also like to see a low sugar content (4 grams per serving here), and I like the fat to be olive oil (extra virgin here). You might like it meatless, but we added lean and naturally raised ground beef and some sauteed onions and garlic (to season the meat). Serve it over thin whole wheat spaghetti.
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Hi Jerry,
Nice article on the great traditional wine of California. Check out this video my father (Joel Peterson of Ravenswood), and myself made about these "Heirloom Wines."
http://blog.bedrockwineco.com/2007/08/09/heirloom-red-wine-1-bedrock-vineyard/
I have started a new winery focusing in large part on these traditional field blends as I feel they resemble some of the best CDP's and Tuscan wines in terms of balance, weighting, and longevity.
Keep up the good fight!
Morgan Twain-Peterson
Posted by: Morgan Twain-Peterson | October 31, 2008 at 03:36 PM