Klinker Brick 2005 Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel

Let's face it, there is a lot of bad Zinfandel out there. And then there's that white Zinfandel stigma. So, buying Zinfandel can be a bit of a minefield. Here's a word of advice - if the name is a pun on the word 'zin' it's probably worth passing by. Any wine called Zin-cinatti or Zin-ammon. Is really trying too hard. Avoid it.

Based on the above, I haven't been a big buyer of Zinfandel. However, while browsing the wine section of my local gourmet market I ran into the big, gay proprietor of a (different) local wine shop and we got to talking about the selection. He pointed out that the two best things they had on the shelf that day were Klinker Brick's 2005 Zin and a retardedly unaffordable claret. So - zin it is.

The Klinker Brink should not be classed among those lesser zins, for sure. It's a really amazing example of Zinfandel - in fact, after the Klinker, just to see if my tasting was accurate I sipped a few others including the 2005 Terraces Zin. I was right the first time - the Klinker is a stunner.

It's from Lodi, California and harvested from a selection of vines ranging in age from 35-110 years old. One HUNDRED and ten years old! For reference that means the first vines in this bottle were planted in 1898. Other things that happened in 1898: The Spanish-American War started. New York City is divided into 5 bouroughs and the US annexed the Hawaiian islands.

Okay, enough trivia, onto the facts: The Klinker is 100% Zinfandel aged for 15 months in American oak. Harvested late, the 2005 yields were higher than average. It's $17 a bottle directly from Klinker, and if you are crafty (like me) you can find it for $15.

In the glass it's a pale rose purple with a very subtle nose, there's a lot of heat - the alcohol is 15.5% so...

I'd been informed that this would benefit from some decanting and some air, so I poured it and let it sit in the decanter for a good hour before I sipped it. The first sip was pleasant - fruity with a long, long complex chocolatey finish. Very decent. I had a glass and really enjoyed it, it's wonderfully fruity and complex. And, I'm going to break every rule in the wine world by admitting it - this stuff gets you drunk. So I had a couple of glasses left in the decanter, and I went out and did what I do on a weeknight and returned home about 3 hours later. I noticed the decanter and grabbed a glass wondering how it had matured throughout the evening.

Wow. WOW. The wine had matured into an amazing combination of ripe fruits and jammy complexity. The difference a few hours made was pretty stunning. In fact, the first sip I had after letting it air was so good I regretted drinking so much of it initially.

So - bottom line on Klinker Brick's 2005 Old Vine Zinfandel? Good stuff, great for the price, open it it early and let it get some air and you'll be pleased. Klinker Brick says, "Our Klinker Brick 2005 Old Vine Zinfandel may be the very best we have produced to date with full, juicy flavors of cherries and plums coupled with the perfect balance of oak and spice." I agree.

Price: $15 (Out West). Closure: Natural cork. Alcohol content: 15.5%.

Comments

[AJ]

It's great to have you back. Your efforts and time are appreciated.