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A to Z Wineworks Night & Day Oregon Red 2005

There is a Samuel Johnson quote on the back label that states, "The fact of twilight does not mean you cannot tell day from night." The choice of this obscure yet provocative and timely bite of wisdom from 300+ years ago would have to make you curious about what's in the bottle. It's a fair sight better than the reading on the back label of most bottles, or anything I could write. As they said in the 70's, "heavy, man". One would have to expect a deep wine experience to justify that line.

You won't be disappointed. There isn't a lot of buzz about wines from the Rogue Valley and surrounding area in southern Oregon. This part of the country is really out there. You can still get lost here, or perhaps you might "find yourself". A to Z Wineworks might have called this wine "Lost & Found", but "Night & Day" works fine. The points are, this is a well made Bordeaux-style blend and it's one that makes you think, maybe too much. This isn't a wine for mindless consumption.

A to Z Night & Day 2005 is 33% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, plus 6% Syrah, 6% Grenache, 6% Sangiovese, 2% Nebbiolo and 2% Tempranillo. The minor components stray from the Bordeaux theme, but tireless blending is a mark of the A to Z Wineworks. Often this skill is put to use assembling lots of Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, in search of synergy. Fortunately, they have not stopped with these better known Oregon grapes.

You might go on and on trying to describe this one, just as you might keep thinking about that Dr. Johnson quote on the back label. I'll say the aromas run the gamut of berries, from black to red, and there's tobacco and oregano in there with the fruit. The black is the base note, and the red is the melody. As you keep sniffing it, you pick up subtle wood spice, the atmosphere. On the tongue the intensity increases, there is pepper, and dusty cocoa tannins carry the mixed berry liqueur flavors through a rocky finish.

What did Dr. Johnson mean? I'm not sure, so how about another easier to get quote of his. "Wine makes a man more pleased with himself; I do not say that it makes him more pleasing to others."

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

Château Candale Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2005

Wine making dates back 1800 years in Saint-Emilion, yet there seems to be plenty of controversy these days about the wine from here. Who are the top chateaux and who are not? This is the subject of a 2006 classification and more recently, a contrary court ruling earlier this year. Then, there is continuing talk about garagistes, rogue vintners who are known to make wine "out of a garage", willing to clash with gustatory traditions, and not shy about their asking prices.

Chateau De Candale is the second Adams French Vineyards 2005 Bordeaux I've tasted and reviewed here on Winewaves. I like Ch. Lagarosse, and I like Candale even more. In describing this wine, start at the end and work your way back to the beginning. The finish is lengthy and grows on you, and that's what you're probably looking for when spending $35 for a bottle. In this price range, length counts. The fruit eventually disappears, but the rocks stay on your tongue more than long enough to text your friends about it.

This is not an overly alcoholic wine, nor is it a fruit bomb. This is a fruit symphony in a major key, performed in such a way to make you stop and listen, an arresting presentation. There is a modernity to the way you are moved by this wine, a sense that the credit isn't all due to the grapes and the soil they spring from. Can you taste the conductor of this symphony?

Working back to the beginning, the texture is polished, and the flavors are layered. You taste a wealth of cherry and red berry flavors, from tart juice to dried fruit, demonstrating excellent balance, This comes on the heels of beautiful perfumed aromas of cherries, red currants, gentle cinnamon-like spice and a number of other essences that together bring to mind fine aged bourbon whiskey. There is a slight haze to the dark ruby color.

The blend is 80/20 Merlot/Cabernet Franc. Aging was 20+ months in reportedly all new French oak barrels. Less than 800 cases were produced.

Robert Parker says Saint-Emilion rates 99 points for the 2005 vintage. Most people will be looking for the big names that can be cellared for years or even decades. Here is a sensational buy for those like myself who are less patient and want to know what all the buzz is about now.

Price: $35 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2005

Unbeknownst to me, Bearboat Pinot Noir has been around a while. An unknown commodity to me when it arrived a couple of months ago in Nashville, I was destined to gravitate towards it. After all, it has all the pieces of the puzzle I'm looking for.

First, I like the label. It's smack dab in the middle of classic and tongue-in-cheek, with its engraved quality, somewhat sepia tones, and the humorous bears-in-the-boat illustration. Second, it's Russian River Pinot Noir, rarely a mistake to buy under $20. Next, there's the weighty burgundy bottle that you wouldn't want to drop on your foot, but you would want to open. And then there's all the hidden meanings. By that I mean the bear, primarily. The bear as the symbol of Russia. The bear as the symbol of California. And last but not least, the bear as the symbol of jocular middle-age gay guys (such as myself), who love to inhabit the Russian River area, particularly the town of Guerneville, often with cubs in tow.

I haven't yet grown into the body of a true bear, but that's due to all the jumping rope and bicycling that tends to keep me on the lean side. I don't have any facial hair, but that's a superficial manifestation. I'm a late bloomer, so maybe I can report back when I've reached true bear status and can afford to spend weekends in a cabin along the Russian River. Until then, I'll stick with sampling as many Russian River Pinots as I can.

Piper-Sonoma, owned by Remy Cointreau last time I checked, produces the Bearboat line. The line is reportedly a 60,000+ case business, including Chardonnay. How is it this juice never found its way past my lips before?

Nowadays $20 doesn't guarantee you a fabulous Pinot Noir experience, but rather, you're happy if you get something with some real character and finesse. With well-known wine maker and consultant Raphaël Brisbois reportedly combining his technical expertise with Piper-Sonoma's Pinot Noir sourcing prowess, you would be disappointed if something really good didn't emerge. And out of the Bodega Bay fog comes a classic palate pleaser.

Ten months in French oak is judicious, and lightly fining the wine leaves a hint of fog in the bright garnet color. Expect a Pinot that's a bit more towards red than black, but with some of both. Not surprisingly for a bubbly maker's efforts, a bit of toast surrounds the aromas of black cherry and red currant. On the tongue, you might say it's more like strawberry and red currant preserves, joined by a licorice "buzz" - more a mouth feel thing than that licorice candy or Ouzo you think of. The texture is downright silky. Overall, I give it high marks for freshness, fruit, and refined texture, and it's well worth the $20 price paid.

Bearboat goes great with, what else, wild salmon! It's only Monday, and we had a couple of end filet's from a sockeye, so this fish found its way onto our plates in the form of salmon cakes. Instead of the usual salmon from the can, we crisped the fish, then poached it the rest of the way in Picpoul de Pinet. Then we picked it into small pieces, let it cool, grated in some sweet onion, cracked in some pepper, lumped in some leftover mashed potatoes, shook in some whole wheat panko crumbs, shook in some celery seed, added a beated egg, and formed patties. Back into the original pan they went, with more olive oil and butter, and the result was lots better than the standard Monday night salmon cakes. Pinot Noir, in this case Bearboat, is a great match for such fare. The meal became complete with the side dishes: speckled butter beans, turnip greens, cole slaw and fresh heirloom tomatoes (for the 40th day in a row!).

Price: $20 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Another Review of Mollydooker Goosebumps McLaren Vale Sparkling Shiraz 2006

In the spirit of point-counterpoint, Siskel and Ebert (Ebert and Roeper) and other famous reviewing duos, this review is the parallel take on Jim Freeway's review of the same wine, here on Winewaves. Jim gave it a thumbs-down, I give it a thumbs-up, although I admit it is pricey compared to other alternatives.

My bottle of Mollydooker Goosebumps Sparkling Shiraz has been waiting for the right occasion to be opened for a good while. It's nearly time for the annually awaited release of Sparky's Mollydooker line, that eventually arrives in Nashville each October. My partner's birthday celebration would be enough, but Jim Freeway's timely review clinched the decision to pop that cork. When do you pop the cork on a $50+ bottle of sparkling Shiraz? Now.

I've had the pleasure of meeting Sparky, although not Sarah, his wife, who comes up with the fun graphic designs. Sparky can be an irreverent yet somewhat quiet person, even when he's in his opposite hemisphere, operating on a sleep deficit, and required to exist on a diet too rich in fermented products. Such are the hazards of the wine business, I suppose. My point here is Sparky does not seem to take himself that seriously, no matter the ratings and buzz that has surrounded most of his products.

In this spirit of "let's not take ourselves too seriously", Mollydooker Goosebumps is offered up. In that regard, I think it measures up quite well. This is not Champagne, it's sparkling Shiraz. We decided to pair it with a southern "meat and 3" dinner of country fried hamburgers and gravy, corn on the cob, herb mashed potatoes, slaw, and fresh sliced Brandywine tomatoes. This southern meal is a metaphor for the wine. Like a 4x4 pickup truck with a lift kit installed, this is Shiraz with a lift. If you're expecting a monumental Champagne experience, you're going to be disappointed. If you're looking for a new twist on Australian Shiraz, and your mind is open at the moment, you might get into it.

I wonder how many of the reviewers who have been disappointed with this sparkler had unrealized expectations. I admit one wonders about when is the right time to open a sparkling Shiraz. The answer is: when you are in the mood for fun. Or, when you're feeling a bit irreverent. This wine really would make more sense sold alongside Shiraz than Champagne. It's more Shiraz with a tickle, than Champagne with pigment. It opens the door to questioning how all wines are perceived versus the context they are presented. I've never been an advocate of blind tasting without context. That is, unless your are only attempting to measure the intensity of specific attributes. But when you're trying to assess an overall opinion, based on how much you like a wine, true blind tasting robs you of a context. Enough of this too-technical discourse.

Mollydooker Goosebumps Sparkling Shiraz 2006 provides plenty of rich purple bubbles. The appearance is deep, dark and nearly opaque, like a solid Shiraz. Blueberry and blackberry liqueur aromas are buffeted by a bit of smoke  (Sparky says chocolate covered raisins). Flavor wise, it's like a well-extracted Shiraz, but lifted and more refreshing, especially served chilled. This seems like a good thing, as it provides a bounce to offset the density. The jammy anti-oxidant rich fruit, a mixture of black and blue berry, pomegranate, and acai, are tart enough. There is a nice tannic structure, and the finish has just a touch of that yeasty flavor to remind you it was fermented twice.

You can argue about the value premise here. It is a $50-60 bottle. But Mollydooker is an upmarket label, known for over-the-top extraction. If this was a Mollydooker still wine, I might find it too-too, and I might blend it with a light-bodied Grenache. With its bubbles, Goosebumps worked for me, as-is.

Sparky and Sarah Marquis split off from Dan Philips and his Grateful Palate Imports labels after the 2004 vintage of Marquis-Philips wines. Since then, both parties have delivered pure marketing and product magic. Grateful Palate continues to market the Marquis-Philips label, delivering great value within, but Marquis is no longer involved. Sparky and Sarah gave up the rights to the label that bears their own name in the "divorce". From my perspective, the split was a "Bitch", hence the Grateful Palate wine sensation by that name was born. However, Marquis and Philips seem to have landed feet first, at least for now.

Price: $50+ (2006 hard to find - 2007 soon). Alcohol content: 15%.

2006 Mollydooker Goosebumps Sparkling Shiraz

First off pardon the dearth of posts, it's rather hot here out west and wine is not a summer pastime. In fact, for fear of heat damage, all fine wine shops here do not receive new inventory from the end of May through October. This is disaster for trying new things or getting new vintages of old favorites - but it's great on the pocket as bottle shops try to unload their inventory in anticipation of new stuff in the fall. There's that and...try as I might, I have not mastered Jerry's patented bottle on the side photography technique - but no matter. I think you'll get the idea:

I recently inked a new business deal and to celebrate decided to get a bottle of bubbly. My go-to bubbly is usually something from the alchemists at Billecarte-Salmon. However, this week I was a) unwilling to drive to the only place that keeps the stuff in stock and b) looking for an excuse to try this curiousity known as sparkling shiraz.

I'm not sure when I first heard of this stuff - but in my minds eye...er mouth I imagined this to be a charming, quirky take on bubbly much like Proseco. I located a bottle and put it on ice where upon my first dilemma arose - champagne glasses or wine glasses? I stuck with champagne stems.

At this point I should note that I didn't do any research on this, as I often do before I buy a +$50 bottle. Keep that in mind - it'll be funny later on.

Quick background on MollyDooker: It's the latest outgrowth from husband and wife wine making team  Sarah & Sparky Marquis. They insist that you pronounce their last name 'mar-kwis' but it sounds so much more fun if you pronounce it the French way: 'Sparky Markey' sounds like some sort of wine making secret agent. Anyway, they make a number of quirky, robust, slightly upmarket (over $35 here) wines under this label. If you've had a bottle of Marquis Philips - which is a great deal more reasonable ($17 here) - you've tasted their work, as well.

Anyway, the ball and chain and I polished off dinner (grilled carne asada - two thumbs up there!) and I popped the cork on the Goosebumps. The first thing you get on the nose is a blast of carbonate propelled fruit. Compared to your typical Aussie fruit bomb - this is a fruit mortar. In the mouth your first thought is, "WOW, this is actually sparkling shiraz!" followed soon after by, "What the hell was I thinking anyway?" The carbonation process imparts a powerful sweetness to what might otherwise be a very decent Shiraz.

What you are left with is a curiosity that will, most likely make you wonder what else you could have dropped $56 on. As I was drinking this I was thinking of a non vintage Billecarte Salmon or even non bubbly - Peter Franus Zinfandel. The Old Ghost from Lodi. An Alexander Valley Silver Oak - if you're a careful shopper...a Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cab, even. What I wasn't at all thinking is of buying another bottle of Goosebumps.

As an after thought I did a little research on Cellar Tracker and some other sites and came up with the following pithy reviews:

"Ugh! Did not like this wine at all. I must say it was what it promised to be: a dark, brooding, overwhelming Mollydooker shiraz bomb with gas. But just think about that for a second, is that enjoyable? No, no it isn't."

"Just not good. Ugh I have 2 more bottles to get rid of."

"This stuff was absolutely wretched. Over the top alcoholic and artificial fruit flavors that remind me of trying to wash dirt out of my mouth with Robitussin cough syrup."

"I really had trouble choking down this wine. I could not get past the feel inside my mouth to evaluate the taste. It reminded me of pop rocks."

Lesson learned.

Price: $56 (Out West). Closure: Real cork with wire. Alcohol content: 15.0%.

The Schizophrenic Nature of Bordeaux Blend Minor Components: Hahn Estates Cabernet Franc 2006 and Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

There are six varieties allowed in Bordeaux red blends. On the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is king; whereas Merlot rules on the right bank. Then there is Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere. These are the "minor notes", that play an important role in rounding out each Chateau's proprietary claret. Of these four, Malbec stands on its own in Argentina, Carmenere does well on its own in Chile, but Cab Franc and Petit Verdot are much less frequently presented a lá carte.

Could it be that Cab Franc and Petit Verdot play the important role of improving the versatility of a claret that's based on Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot? If so, at their best, these are "chameleon" varieties, able to fit in with whatever surroundings they find themselves in. They are the "funny" grapes, the schizophrenic grapes, and that's a good thing. Thankfully, new world wine enterprises are experimenting with stand-alone Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Cab Franc is popular around Walla Walla, Washington, and Petit Verdot is gaining strength in Australia.

These two wines illustrate the positives of their schizophrenic nature, as well as pointing out the uniqueness they contribute to more noble blends.

Hahn Central Coast Cabernet Franc 2006

Cab Franc could be called the love grape, what requires lots of foreplay. It doesn't ripen until it's ready, and that typically means late November in the northern hemisphere. There is an advantage to taking your time, which is why I love Cab Franc.

When someone sticks their neck out and makes a Cab Franc, on its own, I want to taste it. Hahn Estates, who has a knack for turning out great value and authentic flavor, quietly released Cabernet Franc 2006. Figure most of their Cab Franc goes into their top notch affordable Meritage. Fortunately Hahn isn't afraid to throw caution to the wind and put out this Cab Franc.

You can expect tons of soft raspberry fruit packed into an atmosphere that's lightly perfumed and elegantly smoky.  Here is the embodiment of finesse, to be enjoyed at one's leisure. The fortuitous schizophrenia comes into play when pairing this Cab Franc with any mood or food. It goes great with everything. From cedar plank salmon to duck to steak, or just by itself, mix it up!

Price: $16 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.3%.

Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

Petit Verdot is said to play a role in "stiffening the mid-palate" of Cabernet Sauvignon based Bordeaux blends. It is used to deepen the color and add more tannic backbone. And, it is said to be the grape that contributes that "pencil shavings", or what I call "oregano" character. Some consider it a bit difficult to tame on its own, like Tannat.

In Australia, Petit Verdot has been coming into its own. In fact, Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot seems to sell better than its siblings in the range, that includes better known Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir. De Bortoli has consistently scored well with this Petit Verdot, pleasing the palates of all the world's gurus, from Food & Wine, to the Wine Advocate, to the Wine Spectator.

Expect lots of red ripe fruit, almost candy-like, to evolve out of your wine glass past your nose. I wouldn't disagree there is some essence of oregano here, although it's certainly not overwhelming. There isn't a lot of oak influence showing through, a fact that may just mean the integration job was masterfully executed. Sprinkle in a hint of tobacco, and that's it. The tannins are juicy but not harsh. Here again is a schizophrenic wine that can play well in a range of situations.

Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

No wonder these varieties find their way into fine Bordeaux blends and California "Meritage" blends. It's perhaps not that they impart some special, polarizing essence that must be kept in small amounts to be palatable. Quite to the contrary, it seems these are the moderating influences that bring an extreme Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot to the center.

Want to have even more fun? Mix these 2 lovely wines together!

Carlos Pulenta Vistalba Corte C Malbec Blend 2005

Vistalba Corte C may not be flashy, or possess one of the Top 10 most creatively designed wine labels, but it has a great quality: finesse. In fact, it's truly sensual. The unassuming label and lack of "buzz" about Corte C could have led me to miss this one. Thankfully, sometimes I am attracted to the shy ones. This may be the finest Malbec I've ever enjoyed.

To be fair, I've never been too excited about Malbec. The ones from Argentina, that everyone else seems to rave about, are usually a bit rough around the edges for my palate. Maybe they're too intense, too rustic, or have too much earthiness (unless you're grilling Ostrich). My experience with French Malbec, from Cahors, is limited, but my impression has been along the same lines. Nonetheless, I keep looking for Malbecs that work for me.

Corte C could be mistaken for a beautiful top-notch Bordeaux from an excellent vintage, or an expensive Bordeaux blend from Napa. If you're looking for brawn, power, and a killer punch, in both hands, this isn't your wine. To the power seekers, "finesse" can be a code word for "wimpy". Therefore not everyone is going to "get" this wine. The power of Corte C is all under the hood; it innervates the brain rather than inebriating it. If you're in search of a claret that takes its time to make its point, grab this one.

Vistalba is a label of Carlos Pulenta, who has spared no expense in creating a gravity-fed winery with the majestic Andes as a backdrop. The pictures on the Carlos Pulenta web site make me want to stay there. The setting is ideal. Clearly, Mr. Pulenta has perfectionist tendencies, and a genuine wine aesthetic runs through his veins. He is from a wine family, and in fact, his former job was President and CEO of Salentein. Comparing the two Companies' web sites, I'm not surprised by this. The aesthetics are similar.

Expect a deep dark color in the glass, that gives way to complex aromas of raspberry and blackberry, plus mocha, cedar, and eucalyptus. On the tongue, vanilla kicks in to the mix, giving a creaminess and sweetness to the berry flavors and tannins, and making for a very smooth experience. This is a dry wine, but you might think it is a liqueur; it's that ripe in flavor and silky in texture.

To achieve finesse, it isn't necessary to buy an expensive monster of a first-growth and cellar it for years. Why risk all that money and time? This is certainly one of the finest Malbecs to be seen around Nashville. Although the label doesn't mention it, Corte C is 85% Malbec, with 15% Merlot blended in. Oak aging was in French barrels, but not heavy handed. Maybe that's the secret?

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

What's Your Style? Carmel Road Monterey Chardonnay 2006 and NO Unoaked Monterey Chardonnay 2007

A lot of very good and not very expensive Chardonnay originates in Monterey County. But what influences a bottle of Chardonnay more? Is it the the place where it is grown or the way it is made? I have to say both. Unlike in Burgundy, where the location dictates style, in Monterey there is total freedom to express the personality of the grape after it is picked, through its handling in the winery. Lots of oak, little oak, or no oak; secondary malolactic fermentation or not; it's up to the producer and wine maker to decide.

In Burgundy, if your vineyard is in Mersault, you are going to make a rich and oaky wine. If your vines are further south in Pouilly-Fuisse, you are going to make a Chardonnay with little or no oak at all. As a consumer, you know what to expect in terms of style based on where the wine is from. All you need to do is navigate the vintage charts and producers to make a selection that matches your tastes, mood and food.

In Monterey, you will need to taste a lot and decide for yourself which label is your style. Which label suits your mood? Which label will you open this evening? What if you're having a glass before dinner? How about with dinner? The good news is, I haven't tasted any fresh, well-made Chardonnay from Monterey I didn't like. The weather is cool there, the hang time for the grapes is long, and the soil is lean, well-drained and minerally.

Here are two Monterey Chardonnays that have both significant differences and similarities. I guess the story could be stated as thus: You can twist the grapes every which way, you can take the grapes out of Monterey, but you can't take Monterey out of the grapes.

Carmel Road Monterey Chardonnay 2006

Carmel Road Winery is now part of Jackson Wine Estates, best known for Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay. Carmel Road is managed under a Brand "umbrella" that includes high-end labels Hartford Family and Freemark Abbey.

Carmel Road Monterey Chardonnay saw just over 6 months in oak barrels, 3/4 French, a minor portion new barrels. Starting out with high quality concentrated fruit, this is enough oak influence to make for a richer style Chardonnay. I would say this one is just a bit richer than middle-of-the road, without going off the rails. You could say it's efficient luxury. If this is your house wine, you might drive a metallic pearl Lexus. Alternatively, you might drink it when you're celebrating, but not showing off.

Expect a rich lemon-gold brilliance in the glass, and aromas of pear, lemon drops, vanilla plus a whiff of clove spice. There is a creaminess on the tongue. The flavor is moderately complex, noticeably oak influenced, with spicy tree fruit and tart citrus notes that balance out nicely in a smooth finish.

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

NO Unoaked Monterey Chardonnay 2007

This is the first vintage for NO Chardonnay. NO Vineyards and Winery has been making Lake County Sauvignon Blanc, devoid of oak or malolactic fermentation, since 2003. With the growing trend in unoaked Chardonnay, it's no surprise they would line-extend to leverage their brand name, which might just as well be "Buck Naked", "Butt Naked", or "In the Buff".

As expected, NO Monterey Chardonnay saw no oak, and no secondary malolactic fermentation. The screw cap nails this concept home, as not even the natural influence of a cork is allowed to manipulate the Monterey fruit. This is as close to a pure sample off the stainless steel tank as you can get.

NO is bright pale straw, with a slight greenish tint in the glass, noticeable lighter than the Carmel Road. The aromas and flavors are lean, dominated by Granny Smith apple and lemon. On the tongue, this Chardonnay is lean, tart and focused, with grassy, lemon-lime and green apple flavors. This is a Chardonnay for Sauvignon Blanc lovers, you might even say "shrill" for a Chardonnay. If this is your house wine, you might drive a hybrid vehicle, or maybe you just feel like breathing some clean air.

Price: $11 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Being that both of these Chardonnays originate in Monterey County, don't expect their differences to outweigh their similarities. I expected them to be more different, but was surprised they both share a fruit forward nature, beautiful Chardonnay character, plus great minerality and acidity. The nice thing about the comparison is the NO (unoaked) Chardonnay costs a few dollars less than the Carmel Road. This is as it should be. After all, when you're avoiding the high price of oak barrels, you should pass along the savings to the consumer. All too often that isn't the case.

Out in the West Texas Town of El Paso: Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2006

It's a long way across Texas, even by air. But, in an attempt to turn over a new leaf and get going early, I made it from Nashville to El Paso, via San Antonio, by high noon. After an afternoon of work and squeezing my jump rope session in to the late afternoon blazing sun, it was time to go in search of something local to eat. Out on the west side of El Paso, near the mall and my hotel suite, I decided on The Greenery Cafe and Market. The reviews on Trip Advisor, once all thumbs up, appear to be slipping, but convenience won out and there I went for a take out and a bottle of wine.

Yuppie was the word that came to mind as I browsed the bottles and other goods at the Greenery Market. The Tuesday night staff was hoping I would choose something so they could get on with their closing routine. I did. I ordered Tacos Al Carbon over at the cafe, to go of course. After all, why not take advantage of that funky cool two level suite the I got upgraded to over at the Holiday Inn? After some deliberation, I went with a Rioja as my bottle of wine - to last me my two nights' stay. Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2006 turned out to be a really nice choice for the mood and food.

You know the story of Rioja because that's the name everyone is familiar with when it comes to Spanish reds. Rioja is northern Spain, and Tempranillo is really popular there. Rioja can be really fresh, fruity, and sort of light, like La Vendimia, or it can be really heavy, oaky and some say, leathery, if you choose a higher priced Reserva that saw years of aging in the barrel.

Alvario Palacios is the brash young perfectionist who took over Palacios Remondo in Rioja after his father died. He since has modernized and La Vendimia is one of his products aimed at the new world. Based on the promise of excellent local low-yield vines, it is styled for drinking right away. Vendimia translates to "harvest", and this is Alvario's statement of the versatile potential of young Rioja.

The blend is 50/50 Tempranillo and Garnacha. Aging in oak is brief, just 4 months in 70% French oak, the remainder American. The wine was fined but not filtered.

You will pick up on the ripe red fruit here, a lot of cherry and perhaps strawberry. That sounds like a Pinot Noir, and you might substitute La Vendimia for a Pinot Noir. You could chill it a bit, but I was in too much of a hurry to wait. There is also a "garrigue" character to it, a combined sense of unbridled herbs and rocks. The oak comes across in the nose as a slight expresso note. On the tongue, the wine is a bit spicier and not as silky smooth as many Pinot Noirs, which I mention as a positive. It's not a Pinot Noir, it's a Rioja, and it has its own personality, regardless of the temptation to pigeon-hole it. The finish kicks out just a bit of vanilla.

Price: $15 (El Paso). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

As for The Greenery, I would rate it a thumbs up. The take-out order from the Cafe, consisting of Tacos Al Carbon, was overly generous, and it stood the test of time - the time it took to get back to my hotel room and go get the wine opened at the hotel bar. The beef was truly prime quality, tender and tasty. The trimmings were a cut above expectations. The establishment itself is impressively clean and uncluttered for a mall location. The Greenery Market is next door to the Cafe. I can't deny my roots as a Yuppie, having gotten my MBA in the 1980's, and I still own a 1987 BMW 3-series. This market might appeal to everyone, but a Yup will find it irresistable. Expect a nicely chosen wine selection, lots of chocolate, coffee, tea, nuts, dried fruits, sandwiches to go, olive oils, and all the things we can't leave home without. To whom it may concern, they even had Orin Swift's Prisoner and Grateful Palate's Bitch in stock. Who knew El Paso is so civilized?