There are six varieties allowed in Bordeaux red blends. On the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is king; whereas Merlot rules on the right bank. Then there is Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere. These are the "minor notes", that play an important role in rounding out each Chateau's proprietary claret. Of these four, Malbec stands on its own in Argentina, Carmenere does well on its own in Chile, but Cab Franc and Petit Verdot are much less frequently presented a lá carte.
Could it be that Cab Franc and Petit Verdot play the important role of improving the versatility of a claret that's based on Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot? If so, at their best, these are "chameleon" varieties, able to fit in with whatever surroundings they find themselves in. They are the "funny" grapes, the schizophrenic grapes, and that's a good thing. Thankfully, new world wine enterprises are experimenting with stand-alone Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Cab Franc is popular around Walla Walla, Washington, and Petit Verdot is gaining strength in Australia.
These two wines illustrate the positives of their schizophrenic nature, as well as pointing out the uniqueness they contribute to more noble blends.
Hahn Central Coast Cabernet Franc 2006
Cab Franc could be called the love grape, what requires lots of foreplay. It doesn't ripen until it's ready, and that typically means late November in the northern hemisphere. There is an advantage to taking your time, which is why I love Cab Franc.
When someone sticks their neck out and makes a Cab Franc, on its own, I want to taste it. Hahn Estates, who has a knack for turning out great value and authentic flavor, quietly released Cabernet Franc 2006. Figure most of their Cab Franc goes into their top notch affordable Meritage. Fortunately Hahn isn't afraid to throw caution to the wind and put out this Cab Franc.
You can expect tons of soft raspberry fruit packed into an atmosphere that's lightly perfumed and elegantly smoky. Here is the embodiment of finesse, to be enjoyed at one's leisure. The fortuitous schizophrenia comes into play when pairing this Cab Franc with any mood or food. It goes great with everything. From cedar plank salmon to duck to steak, or just by itself, mix it up!
Price: $16 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.3%.
Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006
Petit Verdot is said to play a role in "stiffening the mid-palate" of Cabernet Sauvignon based Bordeaux blends. It is used to deepen the color and add more tannic backbone. And, it is said to be the grape that contributes that "pencil shavings", or what I call "oregano" character. Some consider it a bit difficult to tame on its own, like Tannat.
In Australia, Petit Verdot has been coming into its own. In fact, Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot seems to sell better than its siblings in the range, that includes better known Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir. De Bortoli has consistently scored well with this Petit Verdot, pleasing the palates of all the world's gurus, from Food & Wine, to the Wine Advocate, to the Wine Spectator.
Expect lots of red ripe fruit, almost candy-like, to evolve out of your wine glass past your nose. I wouldn't disagree there is some essence of oregano here, although it's certainly not overwhelming. There isn't a lot of oak influence showing through, a fact that may just mean the integration job was masterfully executed. Sprinkle in a hint of tobacco, and that's it. The tannins are juicy but not harsh. Here again is a schizophrenic wine that can play well in a range of situations.
Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.
No wonder these varieties find their way into fine Bordeaux blends and California "Meritage" blends. It's perhaps not that they impart some special, polarizing essence that must be kept in small amounts to be palatable. Quite to the contrary, it seems these are the moderating influences that bring an extreme Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot to the center.
Want to have even more fun? Mix these 2 lovely wines together!
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Jerry, thanks for post about the Hahn Cab Franc. I will be on the lookout for this wine. I really love a good Cab Franc and I discovered one myself, while on a trip to the Santa Cruz Mountains. Byington Vineyards Cabernet Franc Bates Ranch, 2005. This was a great bottle of wine and to me really embodies the true character of this varietal so well. Again thanks for your well written blog! Cheers!
Posted by: Bill Eyer | August 20, 2008 at 01:08 PM
Hello Bill, and thank you for the great comments. I checked out your review of Byington Cab Franc. How fortuitous to be living in San Diego; I'm envious (most of the time). I'm glad to know about Cuvée Corner, and your blog is now right at the top of my blog roll. Cheers!
Posted by: Jerry | August 21, 2008 at 10:59 PM