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Martin Codax Rias Baixas Albarino 2006

Martín Códax is a Galician Troubadour who lived some 7 centuries ago; his writings were rediscovered in the last century by an antiquarian bookseller in Madrid. The name was given to the winery what produces this Albariño by the same name. Bodegas Martín Códax also produces Burgans Albariño as well as herb and coffee liqueurs.

Like the medieval troubadour Martín Códax, the namesake Albariño is an unwashed expression of the place as well as the grape.

Outstanding value ($14). Closure: Neocork. Alcohol content: 13%.

Style: Exotic, juicy round, fruity and refreshingly dry.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale straw with a greenish tint. Aromas: Mandarin, lime, pear and cold blossoms. Medium-bodied, juicy and tart on the tongue, the pear and citrus medley flavors play out over a lengthy dry finish.

Comment: “In Spain, the dead are more alive than the dead of any other country in the world.” -  Federico Garcia Lorca

Winewaves reviewed Bodegas Martín Códax Burgans Albariño 2005.

Cambiata Laumann Estate Monterey Albarino 2005

There are trendsetters and then there are people who are so far out ahead of the wave that they may be looked upon as downright offbeat. Eric Laumann is adept at making more expected wines while crushing and blending for Monterey Wine Company. But his personal family project, the Cambiata label, involves growing and making Albarino and Tannat. Albariño is THE white wine of Galicia in Spain and Tannat is a unique and heady red wine that makes for an great bit of wine trivia. You will typically only find it being grown and made into wine in the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains, in the southwest corner of France.

I have no doubt that Albariño has lots of upside potential because it occupies the right sensory position and we're all looking for something different from Chardonnay in a white wine. And then there's the wanderlust factor. Many of us would love to take a tour of northwest Spain but opt instead for the bottle of wine. But very few have considered growing and making Albariño in California. Why not? More power to Eric Laumann and Cambiata.

You may be interested to know that Laumann once worked for another "offbeat" character in the California wine world, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon, who also grows a bit of Albariño and blends it.

Very nice Value ($22). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.8%. Cases produced: 400+.

Style: Exotic, juicy round, intensely fruity and refreshingly dry.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale straw with a greenish tint. Aromas: Intense peach plus tangerine, lemon and hints of cold blossoms. On the tongue the mouth feel is medium-bodied, approaching fat yet with excellent acidity. The rich tree fruit and lemony citrus flavors finish lush yet dry.

Comment: You might spend less for an Albariño from Spain or Portugal, but surely curiosity alone will make you want to try this one.

Winewaves reviewed Laumann's Poppy Pinot Noir 2005, a wine he makes for Monterey Wine Company. The bottle of Cambiata Albariño 2005 tasted for this review was provided by the winery.

Quinta Do Feital Auratus Alvarinho Trajadura 2005

The name Auratus translates to gold (as in "goldfish") like the brilliant color of a glass of this exotic and charismatic wine. One sniff and you know this is not "your Mother's Chardonnay".

In 2002, Marcial Dorado's Quinta Do Feital purchased an estate in Seixas, Portugal across the border from Galicia, Spain. His new estate on the banks of the Minho River grows newly planted Alvarinho and old vine Trajadura. Alvarinho is better known as Albarino in Galicia, and is THE grape of Rias Baixas. Trajadura is often a component of the light and frizzy local wine, Vino Verde.

Auratus is a blend of about 50/50 Alvarinho and Trajadura, unwooded, vinified in all stainless steel. Cases produced: 5,500.

Excellent value ($13). Closure: Real cork Neocork. Alcohol content: 12%.

Style: Aromatic, exotic, unoaked, minerally, dry.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Light gold. Aromas: Intensely perfumed mandarin orange, lemongrass, and cold blossoms. Medium-bodied, lightly tart and nicely round, the citrusy exotic fruit, ginger spice and minerally flavors command attention, and the finish is crisp and dry.

Comment: Dare to be different.

Burgans Rias Baixas Albarino 2005

Rias Baixas is in Galicia, in the northwestern area of Spain bordering the sea; some of it is actually north of Portugal.  This is one of the few places where Albariño flourishes and can be counted upon to produce such a noble wine. The area is more humid and wet than the typical continental wine growing climate and the seafood based cuisine is inextricably linked to the winemaking.

Burgans Albarino is made at Bodegas Martín Códax by Luciano Almoedo. A long-time promoter of Albariño in Spain, Luciano championed the initial designation of the Rias-Baixas appellation, and he was the first leader of the AOC. In order for a wine to receive the Rias-Baixas designation, it must be 100% Albariño.

Bodegas Martín Códax is located in the fertile Salnes Valley on the Mont Burgans, this wine's namesake.

Importer Eric Soloman is credited with blending the lots of 100% Albariño which are fermented and aged in stainless steel.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale golden straw. Aromas: Rich, alive, flowery peach and green melon. On the tongue, this lively alternative white is also medium-bodied and fairly well rounded off, even a bit lush without being heavy or hot. Ripe peach, grapefruit and mandarin flavors make for a long finish that's light, dry and lively.

Excellent value ($15).  Closure: Plastic "cork".  Alcohol content: 12.5%.

Vina Nora Albarino 2005

Nora has been one of my favorite non-Chardonnay white wines since I discovered it a few years ago.  The quality is still up there, although the price is a bit higher.

From Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain, and made from the Albariño grape, Nora is a crisp tank-fermented white.

Tasting Notes: Color: Pale straw.  Aromas: Peach, citrus, and hints of bitter orange and ginger.  The mouthfeel is medium-bodied, round, juicy then dry.  The Georgia peach and tart citrus flavors finish like a fresh fruit cobbler, but not at all sweet.

Closure: Real cork.  Excellent value ($15).  Alcohol: 13%.  Imported by Jorge Ordonez.