winewaves

The Hunt for October Red

Click for a larger picture of these bottles.

The hunt for October red has turned up a whole lot of alternatives. Here are four to get the week off on the right track. I love them all and have repeated them in search of my favorite. I can't say which is best because they're all top notch, each perfect for the season, and each priced at about $15 or under per bottle. Two are from Spain, continuing on my October theme; one is French and one from Washington State. Perhaps the balance of the month will turn up something from California.

Eric Soloman's European Cellars is an importer many people trust. It's like a seal of approval for any Spanish wine in the eyes of many value conscious Americans. Eric brings us Capçanes Mas Donís Montsant Red 2004 ($15) and Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Tempranillo Roble 2005 ($13). Both are deep purple in the glass, but the Ercavio has more of an unfiltered appearance, showing some haziness under a halogen beam.

Mas Donís 2004 is mostly old-vine Grenache (80% Grenache with 20% Syrah) and has a perfumed black cherry nose with teaberry and hints of pencil lead. The body is medium, the flavor's tart and the mouth feel is moderately tannic. The cherry fruit along with some vanilla flavors come together nicely in the dusty dry finish. The only thing I don't like is the plastic cork. Why must anyone use that blasted plastic cork? Alcohol content: 14%.

Ercavio Tempranillo 2005 spent 5 months in French American oak and has a lovely aroma of black raspberry, loganberry and apple pie spice, plus the scent of a tobacco shop. Lush and fruit forward, this is what I would describe as a masculine comfort wine, and it would pair perfectly with a cheeseburger. The closure is a Nomacork*. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Jean-Philippe Bourgeois was the General Manager for Eric Solomon for 6 years, and now he is bringing French values to the American market. Château Capion 1C Rouge 2005 (Vin de Pays de l'Hérault, $13) is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and was barrel aged for 14 months. That sounds like a recipe for a great Bordeaux but this gem of a red comes from further south. Still you get the deep purple color and aromas of black currants, dark berries and hints of vanilla. The rich blackberry cobbler flavors envelop the mouth in a far reaching luscious dry finish.

The Magnificent Wine Company is the mass-production wing of K Vintners of Walla Walla, Washington. KV is the project of Charles Smith who brings us such magnificent wines as "The Creator". You might walk right past House Wine 2005 ($11) due to the rather "in your face" and non-standard graphics on the label. You might mistake it for a generic red blend but it's anything but. The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 11% Syrah, 3% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Here's another ideal Bordeaux blend, and the latitiude is virtually the same as Bordeaux. The resulting aromas and flavors are much better than the average house wine, with dark berry flavors and aromas, resolving nicely in to a lush dry finish that echoes the virtues of barrel aging. The closure is a real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

*The Nomacork is a composite resin artificial cork that is similar to the Neocork, but the Nomacork brand is much more popular in terms of units sold.

Pannotia Vineyards La Tierra De Castilla Garnacha 2006

Pannotia Vineyards is a virtual winery whose name was chosen to signify bringing together the wine world ("all the world is a single continent" = Pannotia). The founders describe Pannotia as "a new concept in wine, offering American wine lovers a portfolio of emblematic wines from around the world". Begun in the Spring of 2006, Pannotia managed to sell 10,000 cases in year 1 and their goal is 20,000 this year. They have put together a nice portfolio of what I would call "alternative wines", including Spanish Grenache, Argentine Malbec, Torrontes, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mendocino Zinfandel.

Pannotia brought on board Master Sommelier and Master of Wine Doug Frost as their consultant. I say he's a good choice. After all, who better to help break through the vast wine landscape than probably the only person with his level of wine expertise who also has a vast collection of punk rock and weird music records. Pannotia obviously does not want their wines to be confused with "your father's Oldsmobile".

Pannotia's labels currently all feature paintings by Cedar Falls, Iowa artist Gary Kelley. Gary has been hard at it producing works and perfecting his vibrant style for 35 years. It was Kelley's artwork that first made me take notice of Pannotia's line. Kelley's works range in scale from wine labels to 80-foot murals. You may have seen his murals in Barnes & Noble or his illustrations in Rolling Stone magazine.

Pannotia Garnacha 2006 is sourced from "the limestone hills south of Madrid".

In the glass the color is vibrant, deep candy apple red with bright purple edges and translucent. Sour cherry and framboise fruitiness is surrounded by black pepper and nuanced with a little bit of ash. Youthful bones and a medium body carry the dried cherry and pepper flavors well.

Excellent value ($12). Closure: Plastic cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Yep, this is an emblematic Spanish Garnacha (Grenache).

Marqués de Griñón Dominio De Valdepusa Caliza 2004

My travels never take me across the pond, but if they did I would chart a course to Spain and stay a while, seeing as much as possible. Therefore lately when I haven't been on the road, I've been charting a course through lots of Spanish wines. There are wine values to be had from every geography but this must be Spanish wine season because they are very popular in my glass right now.

Marqués de Griñón's central Spain estate Dominio De Valdepusa was the first to be granted its own appellation in 2003, in recognition of its unique terroir. The label reflects the shape of this geographic place of origin, near Toledo and Madrid. The name Caliza translates to limestone in Spanish, the sub soil that is credited with contributing to the texture of this wine.

Carlos Falcó is the visionary behind the estate. Having studied at U.C.-Davis, he returned to his estate near the ancestral home of the Marqués de Griñón to put in place modern approaches to producing wine. He enlisted the help of heavyweight consultants Dr. Richard Smart in the vineyard and Michel Rolland in the winery and he tapped Julio López Mourelle to become his lead winemaker.

Caliza 2004 is 65% Syrah and 35% Graciano, an indigenous Spanish grape I've not knowingly tasted in wines previous to this one. The appearance is deep purple eggplant with an opaque unfiltered appearance. (Michel Rolland typically discourages filtering from being practiced at wineries he consults with.) The aromas range from fine bourbon, dried tart cherry and forest/earth. The tannins are substantial yet polished providing an encore finish.

Excellent value ($22). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

Sensational, and easier to get to than Madrid.

Dominio De Tares Baltos Bierzo Mencia 2005

Bordering Galacia in northwest Spain, Bierzo is considered by some to be the next Priorat, maybe better, thanks to the Mencía grape. An early to ripen grape, Mencía produces concentrated flavors without overly high in alcohol.

I really love Baltos because it packs a punch in terms of flavor and mouth feel without approaching let alone exceeding the 30 proof level and the price is well under $20 a bottle price point.

Dominio De Tares harvests Mencía grapes 25 to 40-year-old vines and ages the wine in new to 3 year-old French and American barrels for 4 to 7 months.

Baltos is deep purple and nearly opaque in the glass, and complex, dark and earthy as the aromas reach your nose. I picked up a hint of bacon from the oak aging to complement the cassis and cherry fruit and floral notes. Very solidly tannic, some would say overly so but I like the tactile nature. Concentrated and intense flavors lead to that feeling of chewing on walnuts in the finish. I had to look in the mirror to see if this wine stained my teeth.

Outstanding value ($16). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Forget about others' over-priced "reserve" wines, Baltos goes the extra mile to deliver. What more can you ask for?

Red Heads "Yard Dog" 2005

Red Heads "Yard Dog" is an unusual $10 blend from Australia, combining 46% Petit Verdot, 30% Merlot and 24% Cabernet Sauvignon. This mutt gave me a look and then followed me home. Not appearing to be a contest winner based on external appearances, I must say that back at the ranch we were all rewarded with its unexpected inner beauty.

The Red Heads who produced this wine appear to be a bit scrappy themselves but obviously know what they like and how to turn it out. At the end of the day breeding, fine equipment and caste can sometimes be trumped by the instinct and effectiveness of an underdog.

This deep purple ruby pour is nearly opaque in the glass and has a dark complexity about the nose that belies a much more friendly and straightforward flavor. Richer and smoother than you might expect, there's plenty of cherry fruit and sweet spice notes with some wood showing through.

Never fear, this "Yard Dog" will become your best friend.

Excellent value ($10). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 15%.

The full moon in harvest season is always spectacular and brings out the "junkyard dog" in all of us mutts. This past week I was on assignment in Corona, California photographing hotel signs at sundown when I turned around just in time to catch the moon rising as the sun fell below the horizon.

Moon over Corona California September 25, 2007

When in Nova Scotia

Halifax Harbor September 14, 2007 (click to enlarge)

Continuing on the theme of picking up affordable road bottles that come from local sources, I want to share a new discovery from Nova Scotia. This quick trip landed me at the Halifax airport and took me over to Moncton, New Brunswick and back to Dartmouth (across the bridge from Halifax). Along the route, the exit to Pugwash included a sign for Jost Vineyards (rhymes with toast) which is located in Malagash.

Even with the tempering winds of the Atlantic it surprised me that you can grow red wine grapes this far north in the land of Christmas trees. I didn't get a chance to visit the winery but I did get to the Provincial package store and pick out a bottle of Jost. The label says Cote de Bras d'Or Nova Scotia Marechal Foch 2005. A dry wine of 12% alcohol, it's light and surprisingly very much a delight as well. The color is ruby, the body light, and the flavor is brimming with berries like the berry-laden fresh fruit cups they sell at Canada's Sobey supermarkets (another discovery from my recent excursions north of the border).

I only paid $11 Canadian for this little gem with a cork, in a store alongside Yellow Tail that costs nearly $15.

It turns out Marechal Foch (don't ask me to pronounce it) is, as you might expect, a hybrid grape that winters over well and ripens fairly early. But it's being put to good use here. And what's more, this Marechal Foch was grown in Cape Breton, which is further north and out there than Halifax. The story goes that John Pratt (Johnny Grape) was the first to grow grapes commercially in the area, which proves the old adage, "where there's a will there's a way".

You probably won't hear people going on about Nova Scotia's wine industry but give it a try next time you drop in to Halifax.

This trip also revealed that my Sirius radio works up here, so I happened to hear Friday's NPR program "Forum" with Michael Krasny, and the topic was "wine snobs". Fred Franzia, whose Bronco Wine Company makes Two Buck Chuck and markets a host of anti-wine-snob geek-slapping generic-looking labels, was the most outspoken of the guests. He was joined by Julia Flynn Siler of the Wall Street Journal (author of "The House of Mondavi: The Rise and Fall of an American Wine Dynasty") and Leslie Sbrocco, wine author, consultant and host of Check, Please! Bay Area on KQED television. Fred pounded away at his message that wine is wine or if there is any difference, his wine "is probably better than Opus One". The callers were mostly on his side although it seems most don't want to do away with "geek speak", the language of wine.

I suspect my feelings are pretty close to the middle on this subject. I don't want to spend much for most bottles of wine. I might overspend for a label just to mark a special milestone or close a deal. But I need variety, I like to know a wine's story even if it is contrived, and presentation makes a difference to me. At the end of the day I like to talk about wine as well as enjoy drinking it. The good side of the Two Buck Chuck story is that there are now more competitors making better cheap wine, a trend that I hope continues. But just because it's cheap, it doesn't have to be devoid of personality or come with an unwritten rule that it can't be talked about in purple prose.

Maybe next year will bring the debut of my new line of value wines positioned for affordable anti-wine-snob enjoyment: Steak Wine, Chicken Wine, Burger Wine, Spaghetti Wine, Seafood Wine, Lobster Wine, and Barbecue Wine. We've got varietals and appellations, but what could be simpler than wine made to go with what you're eating. One second thought maybe I need to get back to Nashville tomorrow. This cool Canadian air has clearly gone to my head.

When In Boise, El Dorado, or Alberta...

For years I brought wine with me when traveling by air. It's been a year since the rule went into effect prohibiting bringing a bottle of wine through security, and my tactics have adapted. As soon as we get where we're going, I'm bottle shopping. I feel I've hit the trifecta when I find a convenient grocery with nice fresh fruit offerings, a Starbucks inside, and a well stocked wine department.

Recent trips have turned up some notable local quaffs that make the grade and don't cost a lot. They're not Opus One, but it would be a shame to pay a lot for a "road bottle" since usually I only get halfway through it (alright, two-thirds) before going to bed. The next day I'm on to the next place. If a road bottle has a screw cap, all the better since corkscrews are a no-go in carry-on baggage and not all hotels have one available. Fortunately it's still okay to bring wine glasses on board and I'm never without my Reidel "O"s which occupy the center slot in my padded camera and laptop case.

Here are some local finds from the latter half of August.
Boise, Idaho: Sawtooth Winery 2005 Skyline Red. ($10 at Safeway, Screw Cap, 14.5% Alcohol). Think of a stout glass of berry-ish coffee-esque wine. The blend is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Syrah, 10% Merlot and 5% Primitive (Zin-like cousin). Aging was 6 months in oak barrels. Rustic with dusty tannins, the coffee roaster aromas frame black cherry, berry and vanilla oak flavors.
El Dorado (Placerville), California: Boeger Winery Hangtown Red Lot #34. ($10 at the Winery or Safeway, Real cork, 14.1% Alcohol). Definitely a guy's wine, what with the wild west motif and sensibilities, it's the kind of wine I could be happy with if I had to pick only one. The deep cherry fruit is ample, there's comforting oak spice plus a little tobacco note like that sweet loose variety that makes you wish you smoked a pipe. Expressive and dusty, you get a mild hit of tannins and a warm finish. Then you're ready to be tucked in for the night. The blend changes from lot to lot but the San Francisco Chronicle states this lot is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Tempranillo.
Calgary, Alberta: Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2004 Okanagan Valley Cabernet Merlot. ($15 CDN at Howie's, Screw Cap, 14.7% Alcohol). Released a year ago, the texture is smooth and you get a nice combination of bright red fruit, oak spice and Canadian forest earthiness. Nicely tart, it was the perfect partner for the takeout burger I grabbed at a place called Joey's Tomato. The blend is 63% Cabernet Franc (not Sauvignon as you might expect) and 37% Merlot.
Grand Island, Nebraska: I don't have a clue. I arrived too late and somebody will have to tell me where the wine is.

My recent trips to the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally and California allowed me copious opportunities for picture taking. As usual, the pictures I missed were better than the ones I got, but you can view the slide shows from those trips now.
The Sturgis slide show can be seen at http://www.gusset.com, by clicking here.
The California Wine slide show can be seen at http://www.frugalmacdoogal.com.

Here's another wine tip. Good friend Ed Young does a monthly wine letter for Frugal MacDoogal's, the Nashville and Charlotte area wine and spirits retailer whose website and email program I manage. This month he assembled a nice group of humorous and familiar wine and spirits quotes. Be sure to check them out (http://www.frugalmacdoogal.com).

Cambiata Laumann Estate Monterey Tannat 2004

You'll have to spell it out for most anyone when you tell them you tried Cambiata Tannat (pronounced "tah-not"). Having learned that Tannat is a grape usually grown in the Pyrenees with a reputation for being quite tannic, I tasted it with a friend who likes his wines big and tannic. No surprise he smiled when he tried it.

The next guy who walked in the room for a taste wasn't as favorable about this wine but then it's not for everybody. That just leaves more for us.

Eric Laumann produced less than 400 cases of Cambiata 2004 Tannat from his small vineyard in Santa Lucia Mountains, and aged the lots in 24 months in French oak barrels. When Laumann isn't working on his family project, he is busy as Head of Winemaking at Monterey Wine Company.

Very nice value ($30+/-). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Style: Bold, complex, tannic and oaky.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep indigo ruby, opaque. Aromas: Cassis, oak spice, licorice and forest earth. The body is rather full and there's a slight sweetness on the front of the tongue, nice fruit and plenty of tannins which are nicely smooth considering Tannat's reputation for power. The fruit, oak and tannins are well balanced resulting in a bold and lush yet deep and brooding experience.

Comment: The fact that Tannat is described as "outlawed in Bordeaux" is a great reason for many of us to want to try it.

Cambiata Winery provided this bottle of Tannat as a sample for review. Winewaves recently reviewed Cambiata Albarino 2005.

St. Francis Sonoma County RED 2004

St. Francis is known for Merlot, and in this offering they pony up some great juice in a blended format that has a lot to offer any empty wine glass. Cleverly their blend is simply RED, and each case features twelve different labels sporting variations on "splats" of red wine.

This year's RED blend is 60% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cab Franc and 4% Zinfandel, all 100% is Sonoma County grown fruit according to Winemaker Tom Mackey.

Outstanding value ($11). Closure: Plastic cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Style: Fruit-forward with just a bit of earthiness, with some oak spice, dry.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple ruby, translucent. Aromas: Sweet spicy oak notes overlay dried cherry, redcurrant and loganberry liqueur, backed by earthy forest notes. Medium-bodied and dusty dry; the spicy fruity flavors are balanced by enough structure and an earthiness that work together in a charismatic finish.

Comment: I've got friends in Merlot places.

d'Arenberg The Stump Jump Red 2005

Does it matter that no down-under critter icon was abused in the labeling of this amazing Australian red wine value? Do you care that the stump jump is a farm implement that can plough (plow) a row while riding over eucalyptus stumps? You will agree this wine is always a good deal and this year it's downright great for the $10 asking price.

Fourth generation Chief Winemaker Chester d’Arenberg Osborn turns out some of the best bargains from Australia. d'Arenberg The Stump Jump Red is a quintessential blend dominated by Grenache (46%) and perfectly conjoined with Shiraz (34%) and Mourvèdre (20%). These are of course grapes which are well known in the Rhône Valley of France and also in Spain where Mourvedre is called Monastrell.

The d'Arenberg approach involves gentle basket pressing, minimally filtering and keeping batches small and separate until blending.

Excellent value ($10). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Style: Fruit-forward, approaching lush, with some oak spice.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep cranberry ruby with a nice haze. Aromas: Plum, raspberry, cherry, spicy vanilla and a bit of earth. Medium-bodied with moderate soft tannins and good tartness, the ample raspy fruit and good gravelly backbone are in nice balance and the warm dry finish shows a bit of wood.

Comment: Enjoy small batch wine at a big batch price.