winewaves

Birds of a Feather: Light Sophisticated French Values

Like a good rain falling after a long drought, that's the way these two unoaked crisp French white wine values refresh your palate after a long run of big bold reds. Both of these wines are proof positive that you don't have to spend a lot for a superb glass of French wine.

First, Kysela has introduced La Petite Frog, a 2006 vintage Picpoul de Pinet from Coteaux Du Languedoc, an impressive example of how the bag-in-box format continues to get more interesting and go further upmarket here in the states.

Josh Wesson, a regular guest on The Splendid Table radio program, recently outed Picpoul de Pinet as one of France's finest values in a white wine. In the box it's an even better value and and what better way to keep a sensational house white wine available on tap.

Style: Crisp, light (in alcohol), citrusy, sophisticated. Appearance: Pale yellow straw with a greenish tint. Aromas: Grapefruit and tropical notes. The tart lime flavor is dry, refreshing, clean and does not overwhelm your palate. Pair it with a herb roasted bird or hors d'oeuvres or anything in between.
Outstanding value: $28 (3 Liter bag-in-box). Alcohol content: 12.5%.

Next, Kermit Lynch brings us Kuentz Bas Alsace Blanc 2005. Here's the perfect occasional counterpoint to the big high-alcohol fruit bombs we love.

In Alsace, Kuentz-Bas blends 60% Sylvaner, 15% Muscat, 15% Auxerrois and 10% Chasselas to make an economical and harmonious sip of the region. With an alcohol content of a mere 12.5%, a real cork and a modest $13 price this is a must. Great with fresh steamed mussels, expect aromas and flavors of quince, tart lime, citrus rind and almost salty minerality. Style: Crisp, light (in alcohol), minerally, sophisticated.

You can't go wrong with either of these picks. Because the "Frog" is in the bag-in-box format, it's a no-brainer and now occupies a position in my fridge until something better makes its way into a box with a tap.

Premium 3 Liter Bag-in-Box Chardonnay - Hardy's Stamp Australia 2005 & Black Box Monterey 2005

After spending a couple of weeks with several premium Box Chardonnays in the refrigerator, I'm looking for more of them to try.  In addition to the benefits of lower cost per glass, freshness, convenience, and ease, there is another benefit: the easy to recycle box.

Instead of hauling four glass bottles to the recycle center, you can open the box, remove the bag and spout inside, fold the box and put in your curbside recycle bin (in Nashville glass is not permitted in the curbside bin).

Here's a tip: The bag inside is likely to have a glass of wine left in it when the tap stops.  Therefore, when you remove the bag to recycle the box, just throw that bag (and that last glass of wine inside) in your refigerator for later.  To get the remainder out, cut through the top corner of the bag and pour it out.  This last bit is perfect for cooking, and fine for drinking.

Hardy's Stamp Australia 2005 - Tasting Notes: Color: Light straw.  Peach, vanilla and whiffs of smoke introduce this light, slightly sweet, fruity and tart Chardonnay.  Alcohol content: 13.0%.  Excellent value ($14/3.0 Liter = $3.50/750ml equivalent).

Black Box Monterey Chardonnay 2005 - Tasting Notes: Color: Light golden straw.  Juicy fruity tropical aromas are merged with hints of buttersotch in this nicely dry, clean Chardonnay.  The apple and pear flavors are charged with lemon and tinted by oak.  Alcohol content: 13.5%.
Excellent value ($18/3.0 Liter = $4.50/750ml equivalent).

Constellation Brands owns Black Box and Hardy's.   Ryan Sproule, the Winemaker and Founder at Black Box could be credited with inventing the 3.0 Liter premium box wine category.  Constellation is currently the most aggressive marketer in this fast-growing segment.

Premium 3 Liter Bag-in-Box California Chardonnay: Trove 2005 & Delicato 2005

We have a lot more choices these days when it comes to good quality everyday wine packaged in a bag-in-box format.  This is a response to quickly changing attitudes about wine packaging in the USA.  The box used to mean "cheap"  and "unsophisticated" wine was inside, but this is changing fast.  Lately I've noticed more than a few good wine customers mixing in the newer premium 3 Liter boxes.  Following their lead, I stocked our refrigerator with several premium 3 Liter Chardonnays and began tasting and taking notes. 

The result?  No wonder premium 3 Liter Boxes are growing so fast.  The quality is there for the everyday "house wine" context, and having wine-in-the-box makes the household "bar management" task easier and less expensive.  You always have something fresh and open in stock, you don't have to be concerned about waste, and you don't have to open better bottles if the situation doesn't justify it.

Delicato Chardonnay Bota 2005 - Tasting Notes: Color: Pale straw. A light crisp styled Chardonnay, with applesauce and hints of butter on the nose, the flavors are tropical and the finish is nice and dry.  Alcohol content: 13.5%.  Excellent value ($14/3.0 Liter = $3.50/750ml equivalent).

The Indelicato family owns 10,000+ acres of vineyards near Lodi and along the Central Coast.  The family has been making wine for 75+ years, and has caught a big wave with its Delicato and Kingfish Bota (3 Liter Box) lines.  In addition to their fast growing labels, they have a huge bulk business.  Chris Indelicato is CEO, not to mention grandson of founder Gasparé Indelicato.

Trove Chardonnay Box 2005 - Tasting Notes: Color: Light golden straw. Roundly textured, rich, somewhat tropical aromas (think pineapple-upside- down-cake), somewhat oak-spiced, this Chardonnay is medium-bodied and has nice concentration.  Alcohol content: 13.5%.
Excellent value ($18/3.0 Liter = $4.50/750ml equivalent).

Constellation Brands introduced Trove in early 2006, responding to the current approximately 500% growth rate in the premium 3.0 Liter Box business year-over-year.  Constellation also owns Blackstone and Black Box, and the success of these brands must have figured into the birth of Trove.  Trove is 100% Chardonnay from the North Coast and Central Coast regions.