winewaves

Sebeka Western Cape Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Following a trend that's long in the tooth, wine giant Gallo is using the Cheetah as their symbol for marketing the new Sebeka line. Everyone is saying the "critter craze" has run its course and we need to move on. But what's a brand manager to do when given the task to come up with a marketing icon for a new $7 South African wine; one that will compete with Yellow Tail?

Evidently Gallo believes heavy marketing and promotion plus an over the top floor display will make this Cheetah hunt. But from an informed wine consumer's point of view it's somewhat of an insult. Animals on labels are still fair game but one needs to be more creative with them and do a better job of connecting the animal, the brand and the wine's story. If South African wine is a bit mysterious, how does hitting us over the head with a cheetah help tell the story?

The name Sebeka is just as superficial and non-explanative. It was recently posited (at Grape.co.za) that "Sebeka in the isiXhosa and isiZulu languages means something that is (has been) stored or laid down", but is seems more likely that Gallo just thought it sounded good. Are they aware that Sebeka is a town in Minnesota, population 710?

Gallo is working with Swartland Winery for the source of wine for the Sebeka brand, using fruit from the Western Cape region north of Cape Town.

Very nice value ($7). Closure: Neocork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Style: Crisp, citrusy, grassy, lightly fruity, palate cleansing.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale straw. Aromas: Melon, grass, and slight hints of sweet marshmallow and banana that reminds me of a compound flavorists use called "ethyl maltol". The mouthfeel is light and tart, with lemon, green apple and lime rind flavors that finish nicely dry and palate cleansing.

Comment: If you can get past the Cheetah coalition, the price is right on this wild white.

R. H. Phillips Night Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Here's a wine paradox. It's easier to find a great deal on a Chardonnay than a Sauvignon Blanc, even though the latter is much less likely to see any costly oak. Vincor's R. H. Phillips Winery does an admirable job with their Night Harvest Sauvignon Blanc from Dunnigan Hills, delivering a 1.5 Liter bottle at about the 750 ml. price.

Dunnigan Hills is over the Coast Range from Calistoga, some 30 miles East. The climate is warmer during the day so harvest takes place at night.

Excellent value: $13/1.5 Liter. Closure: Plastic cork. Alcohol content: 12.5%.

Style: Vibrant, citrusy, crisp and light.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale golden straw. Aromas: Quince, lime, cold blossoms, sage/grass. Light-bodied and nicely tart, the citrusy herbal flavors are refreshing in the clean dry finish which also shows a slight glint of flint.

Comment: Two for the price of one plus a dollar.

Barefoot Cellars Non-Vintage California Chardonnay

Click for an enlarged picture

At home in a plastic cup or a Riedel glass, at $1 a glass the price is right on this Chardonnay when an "estate pour" isn't called for or when there's no one around you feel the need to impress. Hey look, there isn't even a vintage, but the juice isn't bad, definitely on par with the better boxes priced the same per liter.

Gallo bought the Barefoot brand in early 2005 and continues growing it at an impressive rate. Millennials, a.k.a. "Generation Y" are said to be the target. A lot of Barefoot buyers may just be "Millennial at heart" or on a tight budget. Why not sneak a drink of the "class of 2000"? It's sort of a reversal; you drinking theirs rather than the other way around.

Jennifer Wall is Winemaker for the Barefoot line, and she calls the style "vibrant and fun, fantastic and affordably priced". That sounds a bit like a "one night stand", but at least it doesn't overpromise, which is refreshing.

Excellent value ($9/1.5 Liter). Closure: Neocork. Alcohol content: 13%.

Style: Juicy round tropical and refreshing but uncomplicated.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Light straw, with a greenish tint. Aromas: Tropical fruit: peach, pineapple, lemon and hints of banana. Juicy round and soft with enough acidity to balance the sweet fruit, the tropical punch and green apple crispness leads to a simply refreshing finish.

Pictured below, Barefoot showed up to have some fun at the ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates and Producers) Festival Tasting in January.

Click for the Winewaves ZAP - Zinfandel Advocates and Producers - January 2007 San Francisco Tasting Photo Album

Winewaves Best of 2006

For my money, every wine that was seen on Winewaves in 2006 is a winner. The same goes for the winemakers, wine stores and destinations that appeared. The first week in January is a good time to look back and identify which wines, winemakers, importers, retailers, marketers and trends need to be given more recognition.

Before the best of 2006 are named, keep in mind that Winewaves reviews less expensive wines, mostly under $25. There are better wines out there for those of greater means. Also, Winewaves takes a "random walk" approach to seeking out wines and thus many wines are missed. This being a very visual blog, wines are chosen not just because of their potential for being great juice but also for their visual and trendsetting impact. There is a strong element of fashion being considered in addition to the flavor.

Here then ladies and gentlemen, is a short list of the best of Winewaves for 2006.

Best New Wave: Vino Volo is an exciting new concept offering wine flights and small bites at the airport, with locations in Seattle (Sea-Tac), Washington DC (Dulles), and coming to many airports soon. Vino Volo is capitalizing on a wave which has caught on across the country, affordable casual wine bars that offer premium wines and small portions of well-prepared appetizers or tapas as some prefer to call them. To place this concept in major airports beyond security is "so civilized!"

Best Place to Buy QPR Wines: San Diego Wine Company is the perfect place for a Winewaves random walk because the inventory is constantly changing and selected for having great quality for the price (QPR=quality price ratio). Matt Francke and the staff select wines which will turn fast and that means they represent great value. This approach also guarantees variety in your wine diet because loyalty to wine labels takes a back seat.

Best Importer: Jorge Ordonez brings us many great alternatives to the well-known Chardonnay, Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz. This year 5 of his Spanish labels made it onto Winewaves. See the reviews for: Mano A Mano La Mancha Tempranillo 2004, Viñas del Cenit Venta Mazzaron Tempranillo La Tierra de Zamora 2003, Naia Rueda Verdejo 2005, Vina Nora Albarino 2005 and Borsao Viña Borgia Campo De Borja Grenache 2005.

Best Wine Marketers: Dan Phillips of the Grateful Palate and Sparky Marquis of Mollydooker share this recognition, proving that "breaking up" may be hard to do but sometimes is the best thing. After going their separate ways, Dan Phillips brought out the big $10 hit "Bitch" (see the reviews for the 2004 and 2005 vintages). Sparky introduced the sellout Mollydooker line which moved faster than any $20+ label in recent history.  Dan is an outstanding importer with many labels under the Grateful Palate umbrella and Sparky is a great winemaker, but this year they each took very active roles in marketing their new projects and in both cases they got great results. Winewaves reviewed their collaborative Marquis Philips Shiraz 2004, Sparky's Mollydooker The Violinist Verdelho 2006 and Dan's Pillar Box Red 2005 in addition to the Bitch.

Best Winemakers: Chris Ringland gets the nod for popular winemaker having helped put the Bitch on the map, and Pete Hedges shares this recognition for very classic winemaker, including great values Hedges Three Vineyards Red Mountain Red 2003 and Hedges CMS White Columbia Valley 2005. Chris is involved with many projects but Winewaves reviewed Pillar Box Red 2005 as well as Bitch 2004 and 2005. Pete has been delivering solid Bordeaux blends since arriving on the scene in 2002.

Best Red Wines: Read the reviews of Novelty Hill Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, Hedges Three Vineyards Red Mountain Red 2003, and Bitch Barossa Grenache 2005.

Best White Wines: Read the reviews of Mollydooker The Violinist Verdelho 2006, Höpler Grüner Veltliner 2004 and Coopers Creek Cat's Phee on a Gooseberry Bush Sauvignon Blanc 2005.

Best Rosé: Read the review of Gran Feudo Julian Chivite Garnacha Rosé 2005.

Best Bargain Wine: Read the review of Borsao Viña Borgia Campo De Borja Grenache 2005.

Thank you for reading Winewaves in 2006. Cheers and here's to drinking well in 2007.

Château Mas Neuf Costières de Nîmes Tradition Rouge 2004

Rock on, this wine takes me back via its modernity. Twenty plus years ago when I first started drinking wine, some of the top Châteauneuf-du-Pape labels could be bought for 10-12 bucks a bottle.  I was working amongst food scientists at Procter & Gamble so I could easily afford them and developed a taste for their rocky firm textures and Mediterranean flavors.

After almost a decade, I had to get out of my cubicle, sacrificing high pay for low pay plus a measure of freedom. I had to give up Châteauneuf-du-Pape because the prices skyrocketed. The well-known labels are now fast approaching $100 a bottle, out of my range. Thankfully there are new winegrowers who recognize the need for wines of similar attributes that every person can afford.

The 150-acre vineyard of Château Mas Neuf is half way up a south facing slope in the Costières de Nîmes appellation, where the temperatures are moderated by elevation and ocean breezes. Along the route West of Arles, the location is between Nimes and the sea. The soil, if you want to call it that, is mostly pebbles, and as a result the terroir is similar to the southern Rhone, specifically Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Vines here average about 30 years old and some are as old as 90. The vineyard also boasts a few acres of olive trees, and they produce oil from them as well.

Proprietor Luc Baudet considers he an "atypical winegrower", having studied food science before working in Ireland where he discovered secrets of whisky aging. Next he worked with consumer products companies on issues of food product development and consumer research. A passion for wine and food coupled with a lack of passion for the corporate world led Luc Baudet to his destiny as a winegrower. He is young compared to his contemporaries in France, and a bit contrary, but his techniques seem very tradional.

Chateau Mas Neuf (translation: "new farmhouse") Tradition Rouge 2004 is 45% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, and 15% Carignan. Aging was mostly in large vats, as is traditional, with a small portion also seeing 9 months of barrel aging in used barrels from Bordeaux classified growths including Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Lafite-Rothschild, and Pape Clément.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Cranberry ruby with a slight haze. Aromas: Framboise liqueur, over-ripe strawberry, cinnamon spice, a healthy dose of rocks and touches of white pepper and garrigue. Very lean and somewhat hard edged at first on the tongue, the flavors open up and range from framboise to ripe Kalamata olives to cracked peppercorns to the ever-present sensation of pebbles.  The finish is very dry and rock solid.

Outstanding value ($8, San Diego Wine Co.). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

Food pairing: Anything Mediterranean; black olive hummus, smoked Gouda, baked chicken with herbs.

CMS Red by Hedges Columbia Valley Red 2004

Whenever I travel to Seattle, it seems like I get stuck on I-5, stuck on I-405, stuck in Everett, I get chilled to the bone but I still don't feel cool, and alas, I'm a tea drinker in a coffee town.  But the availability of amazing wine always raises my spirits even in the face of "rising damp".   Of course, the grapes are all grown east of the Cascades, well beyond Snoqualmie Pass, but a lot of it is made in the area around Seattle, like Hedges in Issaquah.

Among the growing purple rush known as the Washington wine business, the Hedges are a family who know how to pack an enormous amount of world class into a wine bottle, and you can afford their good taste.  Tom Hedges is a "savvy businessman" who long ago wisely partnered with an equally well-informed and worldly wife Anne-Marie, a native of France.  They've been in the business for eons compared to the latecomers, but they haven't rested on their laurels.

They were wise enough to recognize Tom's savant brother Pete as their force to be reckoned with, tapping him as chief winemaker in 2002.  Pete believes that rock solid well-structured wines are the price of entry at the global level, even at a bargain price.  Together they bring the absolute best crop that Washington State has to offer to market.

They specialize in Bordeaux blends that could pass for double or even 3-4 times the price in Napa Valley, if you could coax out the complex and finessed alchemy from such a heated southern source.  But hey Jack, all that plump might just be yesterday's news.

Pete Hedges reports the composition of their bargain-priced 2004 CMS Red is 57% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Syrah.  The blend is rather complex in terms of grape sourcing, with 1/5 Red Mountain fruit, and other sources included O'Brien and Willard vineyards in Yakima Valley, Destiny Ridge in Horse Heaven Hills, plus a number of Columbia Valley vineyards.  The fruit was picked over 8 weeks, from the beginning of September to the end of October, reflecting the wide range of ripening dates in Washington State.  Aging was up to 1 year in 80% French and 20% American oak barrels.  Cases produced: 34,000.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby with bright edges and a slight haze.  Aromas: Blackberry, black cherry, smoky lightly toasty and bacony oak, with hints of black licorice and black coffee.  The mouthfeel is almost full-bodied with bold gravelly tannins.  The elegant black fruit is well-balanced with the Red Mountain structure and the finish is firm with fine oak overtures.

Outstanding value ($11).  Closure: "Neocork".  Alcohol content: 13.5%.

In 2006, Winewaves raved about two Hedges wines, Three Vineyards Red Mountain Red 2003 and bargain-priced Hedges CMS White Columbia Valley 2005.

Food pairing: Wood-fired roasted chicken with all the trimmings.

Domaine St. George Sonoma County Barrel Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

For just a little cash on the barrel this Sonoma Cab bargain shows better than most of the well known generic "cheap wines". Some might call it monolithic or say that it must break the rules of true artisan winemaking, but it delivers a heck of a lot more than it asks.  Serve it to your friends who don't drink a lot of dry red wine, save yourself some money, and score points with them.

Bob Fredson, Winemaker for Domaine St. George obviously isn't a wine snob, content to produce extremely approachable wines from noble Sonoma grapes.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby with a bright haze.  Aromas: Straightforward dried cherry, somewhat plummy with hints of vanilla and a measure of sweet oak spice. On the tongue, this is an easy-going jammy number for a Cabernet and just a bit sweet-ish around the edges, but then it turns almost dry.  Cherry cola flavors fill the mouth and the finish is laid back with a bit of toasty oak.

Excellent value ($7, San Diego Wine). Closure: Real cork.
Alcohol content: 13.5%.

San Diego Wine Company

With only 24 hours in San Diego on this trip, and business in Otay Mesa, San Marcos and downtown, plus eating, sleeping and airport arrival time, that left me only about a half an hour to find a case of value-oriented wines. A little upfront web research revealed the place to stop, right along my route from San Marcos back to the harbor area.  San Diego Wine Company was the place.

I emailed Matt Francke (pictured below), the new owner as of a year ago, and he assured me there would be no problem choosing a mixed case in a hurry and getting them packed in a shipping box ready for checking as baggage. Less than a week prior to Christmas, amid the crowd, Matt and the staff accommodated my requests cheerfully, right down to my fussy need to have bottles whose seams did not run through the labels (seams can mess up a label picture).

This is the type of wine shop I look for, the perfect place for a Winewaves "random walk".  There are no wine racks, only case stackers and wooden boxes overflowing with the best values in the market today.  There is nothing expected; and according to Matt, the selection is ever changing.  Do not expect to walk in and pick up the standard fare, but do expect to get a deal on some wines you need to know about.  It is rare that a guy my age feels like a kid in a candy store but I did.

The San Diego Wine Company is a no-nonsense retail outlet located in a warehouse park on Eastgate Mall, 15 minutes north of the San Diego downtown waterfront.  Matt Francke worked for seven years as Assistant Manager before seizing the opportunity to purchase the store from the previous owner and he has not missed a step in the transition.  There are no frills, just fun.  There are no bar code scanners or sophisticated inventory management systems, because it's all in Matt's head.  Together with his staff of Mark, Daniel and Shane, they taste every wine before it gets in the back door and onto the floor.  They take the concept of QPR (quality-price-ratio) to a new level.  With a relatively small (approximately 5,000+ square foot) space, long and narrow, only wines with the potential for turning in a heartbeat make the cut.  That means buying in volume at the best price, with no promises about future buys, and pricing their finds with a razor thin margin.  You could drink very well and never spend more than $10 a bottle here.

Case in point: The very excellent Avalon Napa Cab that Winewaves just reviewed cost nearly a third less here than the best price I found in Nashville.  Similar deals abounded.  What's more, the staff's tasting notes are posted all around, and every member of the staff knows every wine and can quickly steer you in the right direction for your tastes.

The selection is slanted towards California reds, but there are plenty of eclectic selections from other parts of the world, including Bordeaux (they offer great deals on 2005 futures as well), sparkling wines and Champagne, white wines (especially Chardonnay), and wines from Spain, Australia, Chile and more.

I am thinking about using a Southwest Airlines Rapid Rewards coupon and Priority Club rewards night for a return trip to San Diego, just to buy more wine here.  Who would have guessed this store would turn out to be one of the best attractions in the area.

My case came to $162.23, including the $8 Styrofoam shipping container and sales tax.  All the wines ranged from $4.99 to $16.95 except the one bottle I had to have, the Orin Swift "Prisoner" 2005.  This bottle has been on my shopping list ever since I had a glass of the '04 at the Rutherford Grill in Napa Valley last year, and I was happy to get it for $29.95.

Here's what made it home to Nashville, all of them reds: Poppy Monterey Pinot Noir 2005 ($10), Abundance Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel 2003 ($10), Fuentespina Ribera del Duero Tempranillo 2003 ($5), La Planta Ribera del Duero Tempranillo 2005 ($10), St. George Sonoma Cab 2004 ($7), Tobin James Notorious Paso Cab 2004 ($14), Semler Malibu Cab 2003 ($17), Orin Swift Napa The Prisoner ($30), Kings Ridge Oregon Pinot Noir 2004 ($13), Mas Neuf Costieres de Nimes Red 2004 ($8), Ch. Anglade-Bellevue Cotes de Blaye 2000 ($10), and Huntington California Petite Sirah 2005 ($9).

I asked Matt if anybody is ever disappointed by the SDWC's shopping environment.  "If you're looking for the antithesis of us, if you need to see expensive store fixtures and predictable labels, this isn't going to be your kind of store."  Something tells me Matt really enjoys his job. Thanks for the hospitality.

Meridian Central Coast Pinot Noir 2005

Meridian is currently offering outstanding value on all their classic everyday wines, whose white labels feature Patrick McFarlin paintings.  Their 2005 Central Coast Pinot Noir may be the best on the market right now in the under-$10 range.

Tasting Notes: Color: Medium purplish ruby, translucent.  Aromas: Cherry, strawberry, plum, spice and hints of vanilla.  Light-bodied, fleshy, smooth and mildly tannic on the tongue, the dry tart berry and spice flavors exhibit nice "hang time" for the price.

Excellent value ($8 on sale).  Closure: Real cork.  Alcohol content: 13.8%

Food pairing: Home baked from scratch extra thin crisp pizza.

Winewaves reviewed the 2004 vintage of Meridian Central Coast Pinot Noir.

Dancing Bull Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Dancing Bull* is owned by E&J Gallo Winery, the largest U.S. wine company (2005 figures).  Mass produced, yes, but everything is right about this racy California Sauvignon Blanc.  The wine is more distinctive than you expect, the package sings with its new screw cap, and the price is right.

The composition of Dancing Bull Sauvignon Blanc 2005 is 94+% Sauvignon Blanc, with added Semillon, sourced from Central Coast (about 3/4) and North Coast (about 1/4).

Tasting Notes: Color: Light straw with a slight greenish tint.  Aromas: Starfruit and ripe pear.  Juicy, light-bodied, tart and lively on the tongue, the grapefruit and starfruit flavors are refreshing if not almost "shrill" on the dry finish.

Outstanding value ($8).   Closure: Screw cap.   Alcohol content: 13.2%.

Food Pairing: Home baked thin crust pizza or classic as an apperitif.

*Dancing Bull was previously part of the Rancho Zabaco label, but Gallo has dropped the Zabaco from the Bull label altogether believing it now stands alone.