winewaves

The Hunt for October Red

Click for a larger picture of these bottles.

The hunt for October red has turned up a whole lot of alternatives. Here are four to get the week off on the right track. I love them all and have repeated them in search of my favorite. I can't say which is best because they're all top notch, each perfect for the season, and each priced at about $15 or under per bottle. Two are from Spain, continuing on my October theme; one is French and one from Washington State. Perhaps the balance of the month will turn up something from California.

Eric Soloman's European Cellars is an importer many people trust. It's like a seal of approval for any Spanish wine in the eyes of many value conscious Americans. Eric brings us Capçanes Mas Donís Montsant Red 2004 ($15) and Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Tempranillo Roble 2005 ($13). Both are deep purple in the glass, but the Ercavio has more of an unfiltered appearance, showing some haziness under a halogen beam.

Mas Donís 2004 is mostly old-vine Grenache (80% Grenache with 20% Syrah) and has a perfumed black cherry nose with teaberry and hints of pencil lead. The body is medium, the flavor's tart and the mouth feel is moderately tannic. The cherry fruit along with some vanilla flavors come together nicely in the dusty dry finish. The only thing I don't like is the plastic cork. Why must anyone use that blasted plastic cork? Alcohol content: 14%.

Ercavio Tempranillo 2005 spent 5 months in French American oak and has a lovely aroma of black raspberry, loganberry and apple pie spice, plus the scent of a tobacco shop. Lush and fruit forward, this is what I would describe as a masculine comfort wine, and it would pair perfectly with a cheeseburger. The closure is a Nomacork*. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Jean-Philippe Bourgeois was the General Manager for Eric Solomon for 6 years, and now he is bringing French values to the American market. Château Capion 1C Rouge 2005 (Vin de Pays de l'Hérault, $13) is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and was barrel aged for 14 months. That sounds like a recipe for a great Bordeaux but this gem of a red comes from further south. Still you get the deep purple color and aromas of black currants, dark berries and hints of vanilla. The rich blackberry cobbler flavors envelop the mouth in a far reaching luscious dry finish.

The Magnificent Wine Company is the mass-production wing of K Vintners of Walla Walla, Washington. KV is the project of Charles Smith who brings us such magnificent wines as "The Creator". You might walk right past House Wine 2005 ($11) due to the rather "in your face" and non-standard graphics on the label. You might mistake it for a generic red blend but it's anything but. The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 11% Syrah, 3% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Here's another ideal Bordeaux blend, and the latitiude is virtually the same as Bordeaux. The resulting aromas and flavors are much better than the average house wine, with dark berry flavors and aromas, resolving nicely in to a lush dry finish that echoes the virtues of barrel aging. The closure is a real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

*The Nomacork is a composite resin artificial cork that is similar to the Neocork, but the Nomacork brand is much more popular in terms of units sold.

When In Boise, El Dorado, or Alberta...

For years I brought wine with me when traveling by air. It's been a year since the rule went into effect prohibiting bringing a bottle of wine through security, and my tactics have adapted. As soon as we get where we're going, I'm bottle shopping. I feel I've hit the trifecta when I find a convenient grocery with nice fresh fruit offerings, a Starbucks inside, and a well stocked wine department.

Recent trips have turned up some notable local quaffs that make the grade and don't cost a lot. They're not Opus One, but it would be a shame to pay a lot for a "road bottle" since usually I only get halfway through it (alright, two-thirds) before going to bed. The next day I'm on to the next place. If a road bottle has a screw cap, all the better since corkscrews are a no-go in carry-on baggage and not all hotels have one available. Fortunately it's still okay to bring wine glasses on board and I'm never without my Reidel "O"s which occupy the center slot in my padded camera and laptop case.

Here are some local finds from the latter half of August.
Boise, Idaho: Sawtooth Winery 2005 Skyline Red. ($10 at Safeway, Screw Cap, 14.5% Alcohol). Think of a stout glass of berry-ish coffee-esque wine. The blend is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Syrah, 10% Merlot and 5% Primitive (Zin-like cousin). Aging was 6 months in oak barrels. Rustic with dusty tannins, the coffee roaster aromas frame black cherry, berry and vanilla oak flavors.
El Dorado (Placerville), California: Boeger Winery Hangtown Red Lot #34. ($10 at the Winery or Safeway, Real cork, 14.1% Alcohol). Definitely a guy's wine, what with the wild west motif and sensibilities, it's the kind of wine I could be happy with if I had to pick only one. The deep cherry fruit is ample, there's comforting oak spice plus a little tobacco note like that sweet loose variety that makes you wish you smoked a pipe. Expressive and dusty, you get a mild hit of tannins and a warm finish. Then you're ready to be tucked in for the night. The blend changes from lot to lot but the San Francisco Chronicle states this lot is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Tempranillo.
Calgary, Alberta: Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2004 Okanagan Valley Cabernet Merlot. ($15 CDN at Howie's, Screw Cap, 14.7% Alcohol). Released a year ago, the texture is smooth and you get a nice combination of bright red fruit, oak spice and Canadian forest earthiness. Nicely tart, it was the perfect partner for the takeout burger I grabbed at a place called Joey's Tomato. The blend is 63% Cabernet Franc (not Sauvignon as you might expect) and 37% Merlot.
Grand Island, Nebraska: I don't have a clue. I arrived too late and somebody will have to tell me where the wine is.

My recent trips to the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally and California allowed me copious opportunities for picture taking. As usual, the pictures I missed were better than the ones I got, but you can view the slide shows from those trips now.
The Sturgis slide show can be seen at http://www.gusset.com, by clicking here.
The California Wine slide show can be seen at http://www.frugalmacdoogal.com.

Here's another wine tip. Good friend Ed Young does a monthly wine letter for Frugal MacDoogal's, the Nashville and Charlotte area wine and spirits retailer whose website and email program I manage. This month he assembled a nice group of humorous and familiar wine and spirits quotes. Be sure to check them out (http://www.frugalmacdoogal.com).

Schug Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

The Schug family has never sold out to anyone and always seems to be aiming to define classic wine. Without pretension, Walter Schug presides over modestly priced creations infused with worldly experience such as this Cabernet which bridges the gap between Sonoma and Bordeaux.

The Schug Winery was established in Carneros in 1980 after Walter Schug decided to go it on his own after years of helping put Joseph Phelps and California Cabernet on the map. Walter made the first Bordeaux-style blend for Phelps (Insignia) as well as the first vineyard-designated Cabs (Bacchus and Eisele) and the first varietal Syrah in the US. Having grown up in a Pinot Noir vineyard in Germany, Walter wanted to make Pinot Noir commercially but Phelps didn't. Hence it was off to Carneros where he has been making Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and sparkling wines.

Now Walter has the help of Michael Cox, plus a small to medium sized state of the art winery facility and a modest cave where wines are barrel aged. Sonoma Valley Cab 2004 is a blend of Cab, Cab Franc and Merlot.

Outstanding value ($20). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Style: A bit lusher than a firm Bordeaux but combining the best of the old and new worlds; well endowed with oak.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple ruby with just a slight haze. Aromas: Classic cassis and loganberry combine with spicy oak and cave earth. On the tongue the body is medium to full with nice tartness and substantial yet lightly polished tannins. The dark fruit and spice flavors are backed with a smidgen of pencil lead and the finish lingers well.

Comment: A good candidate for taking to a friendly blind tasting competition. You know, where everyone brings a bottle in a brown paper bag and the person whose bottle finishes last pays for dinner.

R Winery Evil Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

"Evil" spelled backwards is "Live" but "Evil" turned upside down, "It's just wrong". That's what the label says anyway.

Evil is another worthy project of the partnership between Dan Philips' Grateful Palate Imports and Chris Ringland's R Winery. The partnership is responsible for Bitch Barossa Grenache, Pillar Box Red and other hotties in our wine market these days. The fruit is sourced from South East Australia.

Excellent value ($10). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.7%.

Style: Dark fruit-forward, softly textured, approaching lush.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple ruby, semi-opaque. Aromas: Cassis and hints of coffee and vanilla. Medium-bodied and softly textured, the deep fruit-forward flavors are plentiful but just short of jammy and the finish is dusty dry.

Comment: Once upon a time the water was turned to evil wine and it was a worthwhile temptation.

Haras De Pirque Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Stimson Lane, parent of Chateau Ste. Michelle imports this Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon which is an attractive value and perfect companion to a ribeye on Derby weekend.

The horse drawing on the front label pays homage to Leonardo Da Vinci and ties together the Haras De Pirque Estate's dual focuses: wine and race horses. The estate is owned by the family of Eduardo Matte. The winery is shaped like a giant horseshoe and they raise winning thoroughbred stallions.

The composition of Haras Cabernet is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with 10+/-% Carmenère and a smidgen of Syrah. Aging was 8 months in French oak.

Excellent value ($9). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Style: Lush, black fruit forward, with some smoky oak.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep crimson with purple edges, with just a bit of a haze, semi-opaque. Aromas: Perfumed cassis, loganberry, cedar, tobacco, wet earth and well toasted oak. Jammy and substantial on the tongue, the lush black/red fruit, herbal notes and bold earthy tannins go the distance like a thoroughbred should.

Comment: An American in Chile.

Peirano Estate Lodi The "Other Other" 2005

After I reviewed Peirano The Other (Syrah blend) 2005 in February on Winewaves, "Grace" received a bottle from Wine Library and noted hers is a different blend - very different. The previously reviewed Other is labeled 70% Syrah, and Grace received one labeled 60% Cabernet. The Cab-heavy bottle arrived in Nashville and my tasting notes on it are different.

Both versions are fine wines for the price, so don't hesitate to pick up whichever is in your local store. Interestingly, both bottles claim to be the same 13.8% alcohol level and carry the same UPC.

Peirano Estate The "Other Other" 2005 is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Syrah.

Excellent value ($11). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.8%.

Style: Balanced, food-friendly, fruit-forward, some oak.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby, translucent. Aromas: Cherry, cassis, chocolate and hints of cedar and earth. A medium body and nice dusty dry tannins frame the fruit, providing good balance, and the finish leans more towards restrained than over the top.

Comment: Contemplate the mystery of this "Other" and that "Other" while devouring a big juicy cheeseburger dragged through the garden.

Root:1 Colchagua Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

The unique labeling attracts your attention and does a good job communicating the importance of good rootstock to making a good wine. The story goes that these are rare ungrafted vines growing in a rarified region. Unlike most of the world's wine growing regions, here in Colchagua Valley Phylloxera has not destroyed the original vines or forced new vines to be grafted onto resistant root stock.

Seattle based Click Wine Group is partners with giant Agrosuper Viña Ventisquero on Root:1 Chilean Cabernet.

Winemaker Felipe Tosso reports the source of fruit is the Apalta and El Suspiro ("the whisper") Vineyards in Colchagua Valley, a sub-region of Rapel Valley. The blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Syrah, aged about 1 year in French oak barrels.

Outstanding value ($11). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

Style: Fruit forward, complex, lush, dark fruit, some oak spice.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby translucent. Aromas: Cherry, loganberry, coffee, vanilla, cinnamon, and sage. Rich, well-structured and medium-bodied, the jammy dark fruit flavors merge with spicy cedary oak to create a big dry reverberating finish.

Comment: This unexpectedly fruity and new worldly Chilean Cab goes great with a medium rare steak.

K Vintners The Creator Walla Walla 2003

The fetching label etching featuring "K" vintner Charles Smith on the front, the white plastic sealing "wax" and the heavyweight bottle with its deep punt get your attention. Now that your mind is focused on the wine inside you might see the creator and the origin, Hallelujah!

K Vintners' proprietor Smith managed rock bands in Europe before settling in Walla Walla to make his signature wines. In addition to the cultish Creator, he makes the very popular "House Wine" Red blend which sells for about $10.

The aesthetic works for me. I like black and white, red wine, not to mention the Walla Walla vibe.

The Creator 2003 is 60% En Cerise Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah.

Very nice value ($40). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

Style: Complex, earthy dark fruit and spice with some oak.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple eggplant, opaque. Aromas: Sweet spicy blackcurrant preserve is joined by earth and coffee. There's plenty of body but it's smooth to the touch and just lightly tart. The dark fruit lingers as a modicum of oak spice evolves in the resonating finish.

Comment: If I could afford to I would open this one frequently.

Taj of Cork & Demon Wine Blog got some great pictures of Charles and K Vintners along with a "must check out" interview last May. Go check it out.

Winewaves reviewed House Wine last year.

Rebel Wine Co. The Show Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

The Three Thieves, a.k.a. Charles Bieler, Joel Gott, and Roger Scommenga (a.k.a. Scommes), the guys who brought us those clever 1-Liter jugs, made a 50/50 deal with Trinchero Family Estates about two years ago forming the Rebel Wine Company. The goal of these odd bedfellows was to "liberate premium eclectic wine". Trinchero, parent of Sutter Home, needed some rebellious outsider thinking and the Thieves gained access to Trinchero's reach and bank. The venture came honky tonkin' to Nashville's Hatch Show Print for inspiration and "The Show" was born.

This California Cabernet is good, really. In fact, it could be the favorite house pour down at Tootsie's Orchid Lounge or any down home joint, like my house. But the genius of the offering is the genuineness communicated by the use of Hatch Show Print's archival letterpress graphics.

Hatch Show Print, founded in 1879 by brothers Charles and William Hatch, is now part of The Country Music Hall of Fame. Hatch has filled venues for many decades with their straightforward posters, each turned out by hand on crank presses, each inked with an artistic touch, each unique and expressive. In its first heyday, Hatch promoted circuses and traveling shows, country products like sausage and bread, jazz greats Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong, the one-and-only B. B. King, and the stars of the Grand Ole Opry. Today, Hatch is busier than ever thanks to energetic fearless leader Jim Sherraden who breathed new life into the enterprise starting in the 1980's.

Countless companies and individuals now line up for a piece of the genuine character that’s cranked out down on lower Broadway. From Willie Nelson's upcoming new album cover, to posters for rock bands like Springstein to Coldplay to The Strokes, to Jack Daniels ads, to wedding invitations, to wine labels, Hatch is in demand.

Pictured above: Jim Sherraden and Brad Vetter

The Three Thieves tapped Hatch's young letterpress print artist Brad Vetter to design the three labels for The Show Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. Vetter has been with Hatch about 2 years and previously designed a Three Thieves Jug poster, so he was enlisted once again. The Thieves' Charles Bieler had an idea of what he wanted and designer Vetter provided four outstanding alternatives. Three went forward, including his and my favorite, the one with the green parallax stripes behind the bucking bronco. Vetter, already a master of the medium, drew all the graphics from the existing archives of woodblocks and type at Hatch.

Technically speaking, The Show 2005 Cab is 80% Cabernet, the vast majority from Monterey and Paso Robles with a smidgen from Napa, plus 8% Merlot from Monterey, 6% Cab Franc from Napa, 3% Petite Sirah from Dry Creek and 3% Petite Verdot from Napa. The 10,000 cases produced saw French and American oak prior to bottling.

Excellent value ($15). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

Style: Lush, fruit forward, with some oak spice.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby with a purple tint, translucent. Aromas: Black cherry, blackcurrant, vanilla, sweet tobacco and hints of sage flowers. Spicy, moderately tart and medium-bodied, the mouth filling dried red to black fruit and spicy oak flavors lead to a bucking good finish.

Comment: The only watch out is the classy heavyweight bottle. You might think there is still some wine left in it and find yourself empty handed.

Be sure and stop in at Hatch Show Print on your next trip to Nashville, or pop the cork on a bottle of The Show and drop in to the Hatch website for a one-of-a-kind show poster or a monoprint signed by Jim Sherraden himself.

The Show even has a "MySpace" page.

Clarence Dillon Clarendelle Red Bordeaux 2003

A friend once gifted me a bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion and I must admit it was over my head, aristocratic, too complex for words, and at up to $1000/bottle I certainly couldn't have afforded it. Very recently, another friend gifted me this lovely bottle related to Haut-Brion, and this one really fits.

Prince Robert of Luxembourg has gone modern while paying due homage to his great-grandfather Clarence Dillon by introducing his line of negociant Bordeaux wines. The name Clarendelle derives from the name Clarence Dillon and the term Claret, with a nod to the femininity of its native France.

Clarence Dillon Clarendelle Red Bordeaux 2003 is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Excellent value ($20). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13%.

Style: Complex, new and old worldly, lightly floral, and elegantly fruity.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby with a purple edge, translucent. Aromas: Intense black cherry, black currant and berry, vanilla, floral notes and hints of cedar. Medium-bodied and well-structured with low to moderate acidity, the red to black fruit, cocoa and cedary notes finish with gravelly minerality.

Comment: Prince Robert is spot on with this consumer-friendly Bordeaux. Pair it with a rich pasta dish.