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Rated XXX: Rosenblum Vintner's Cuvée XXX Zinfandel

This year, 2008, marks the 30th anniversary of Kent Rosenblum's foray into professional wine making under the Rosenblum Cellars label, hence XXX marks the vintage. The reference to adult cinema cannot be missed and is mentioned on the label: "Vintner's Cuvée XXX is not X-rated, but it is a spicy, overt and fruit-forward wine, filled with bright raspberry and cherry flavors."

This year the 60-something Rosenblum sold his label to Diageo, the international drinks giant, known for brands including Johnnie Walker, Tanqueray, Crown Royal, José Cuervo, Smirnoff, Bailey's, and many more. Their wine portfolio is one of the U.S. top 10 in sales. Not looking to get out of the business, Rosenblum agreed to stay on to oversee wine making and promote the brand.

This is certainly the trend of 2008: the big wine "houses" are getting bigger, and the small and medium houses have to mount a successful contra-marketing campaign to get noticed outside their tasting rooms. This parallels a trend towards more retail markets opening up wine sales to grocery stores and mass merchandisers, something currently being discussed hotly in Tennessee, my backyard.

Like it or not, gone are the days when oenological ideology and a small nest egg was enough to launch a competitive wine business. But like any trend, this one may reverse itself one day, the same way brewery consolidation eventually led to a rebirth of microbreweries.

Meantime, Rosenblum's Vintner's Cuvée Zinfandel is easy to recommend, and always has been for me, because the quality is consistently excellent for the money. Expect lots of dark berry cherry fruit plus overtones of spice and vanilla, all very well displayed to the senses, smoothly textured, on a youthfully muscular frame and finish. Let's hope Kent Rosenblum really hangs around for Cuvées to come.

In reference to this being Cuvée XXX, let me quote the venerable Poet Laureate Billy Collins from his book, Ballistics, his poem titled Pornography. Collins isn't describing a bottle of wine, but this poem immediately came to my mind for Vintner's Cuvée XXX.

"This is all I need to inject me with desire,
to fill me with the urge to lie down with you,
or someone very much like you,

on a cool marble floor or any fairly flat surface
as clouds go flying by
and the rustle of tall leafy trees

mixes with the notes of birdsong -
so clearly does the work speak of vanishing time,
obsolete musical instruments,

passing fancies, and the corpse
of the largely forgotten painter moldering
somewhere beneath the surface of present-day France."

In summary, I disagree with the label. This wine is definitely X-rated, which means I very much recommend it.

Price: $12 (Nashville). Closure: Noma/Neocork. Alcohol content: 14.6%.

Alfredo Roca Mendoza Pinot Noir 2007

You might have to walk past this one a few times before you pick it up. The small black and white vineyard scene on the label depicts terroir, but it does so in a quiet way. You eventually pick up the bottle. After all, it's an affordable Pinot Noir, and you're curious about its roots in Argentina. Flipping to the back label, you read the description and discover this is one of Dan Kravitz' Hand Picked Selections. That closes the sale on the first of many bottles.

At any given time, if you find an importer that you can trust, that's great. If that importer is finding real bargains, you have a personal shopper. There are so many labels and so much good wine out there, a solid importer like Dan Kravitz can help you cut through a lot of clutter.

Alfredo Roca Mendoza Pinot Noir 2007 is a versatile red with nothing to hide. Though terroir is a difficult term to define, this wine embodies it. Beneath the bright garnet color, you begin to pick up some rocky overtones in addition to the prevailing black cherry, vanilla and roasted aromas that conspire to stimulate your appetite. Then plum and red currant preserves, herbal and earthy flavor notes carry through to a warm and rustic dry finish. There's a nice complexity here and not an overwhelming sense of oak or alcohol in the way of the fruit of the vines.

Good as a starter, you can pair this Pinot Noir with a wide variety of dishes. We can vouch for roast chicken, pork tenderloin medallions in a savory gravy, and pan grilled wild salmon. This sort of versatility makes it a candidate for the holiday table.

Price: $12 (Nashville). Closure: Nomacork. Alcohol content: 13%.

Meridian Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2006

The label eludes to the scene. You're there, or your mind takes you there if you're not there in body. You look to the west and the colors emerge with a fortunate sunset as sailing vessels are in no hurry to return to their moors. People amble down the boardwalk or the palm lined avenue as a hard working two-man band entertains a crowd at the Tiki bar around the corner. No shirt, no shoes, no problem.

You may have spent a lot to get here, or maybe you don't have a lot to spend and your trip is pure imagination. No matter, because as the saying goes, wherever you go, there you are. This scene is not begging for a high-priced bottle of wine, but one that fits the ritual and mood of a picture perfect day as it prepares to pass into night.

Has Meridian painted a picture you can see yourself in? You can certainly afford to be here. Meridian Vineyards, whose history includes being acquired by Beringer, then becoming a little piece of the beverage behemoth Foster's, is the little engine that can get you here. They could charge more, you could spend more, but why? For $7 you can dive into a bottle of Santa Barbara Chardonnay and experience a tropical sunset wherever you are.

The aromas and flavors are centered around pineapple. It's a summer fling in a glass, you might even call it a fantasy. The flavors come across a tad sweet, but it's just the tropical fruit talking. The wine is actually pretty dry in terms of residual sugar, but oak influence is minimal so the Santa Barbara fruit is intense. There are hints of orange, coconut and lemon-lime, but that welcoming pineapple is what reverberates. The finish is a simple pleasure; one that says, "drink, don't think".

The point is, we don't always need a wine to be monumental. Very good for the price and right for the mood is frequently all we really need. Like this Chardonnay.

Price: $7. (Nashville, Clearwater). Closure: Nomacorc. Alcohol content: 13.4%.

Mano A Mano La Mancha Tempranillo 2005

There are more and more Spanish wine buyers out there every day, and as a result Spanish wines have been on the increase in price. But you can still find a surreal deal if you know where to look. If you haven't gotten involved with a Spaniard yet, don't be timid. Now is the time. Man, oh man, this Mano A Mano es muy bueno, comprende?

El genio importador Jorge Ordonez serves up a boat load of exciting wines every year, and it is with bated breath that many of us wait for each ship's booty. I don't get to taste them all, but of the ones I've tasted recently, Mano A Mano La Mancha Tempranillo 2005 is the Dali. Casual as a Zin, but it's not a Zin, and it's not a Shiraz, even with its spice and perfectly subtle yet passionately smoky undertones; it's well, a Tempranillo, from the very macho and carefree sounding area La Mancha, the home of Don Quixote. With just a half a year in French oak, this Tempranillo doesn't take itself too seriously. Hold the bottle up to your ear and you might hear Flamenco. You are present as Charo is shredding a guitar to a disco beat.

The color is deep purple ruby, inviting you to smell it. The aromas are fruit filled, tilting to the red and exotic, intoxicating, and surrounded by those perfectly subtle smoky undertones I mentioned. The overall message is more complex than you expect, powerful yet graceful, fast paced yet well coordinated and harmonious. If you've never gotten to know Tempranillo, let this be your example of what a young one can be. There's a lot of body here and a lot of soul. "Meaty, dense and chewy", Robert Parker said, and you would agree. The finish is dusty, dry, but doesn't kick you as hard as you might expect. That's a good thing. That means you can drink more of it!

Price (Nashville): $11. Closure: Nomacorc (LDPE synthetic cork). Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Pepperwood Grove Pinot Noir 2007 (Chile, Australia)

Apparently we can't get enough, so Pinot Noir is flowing in from everywhere. Interestingly, although the most expensive Pinot Noir in the world is French Burgundy, and although the U.S. Dollar is at a disadvantage to the Euro and many other world currencies, and although shipping costs are soaring, a lot of inexpensive Pinot Noir is being imported to the U.S. from France, as well as other less well known Pinot Noir appellations.

Don Sebastiani and Sons' Pepperwood Grove unit is now offering two 2007 vintage Pinot Noirs from two lesser known Pinot Noir appellations in the southern hemisphere: Chile and Australia. I spotted both of them on display at Frugal MacDoogal's warehouse store in Fort Mill, South Carolina (just across the border from Charlotte, North Carolina). And the price each is low, under $6 at the time of purchase.

Both are bright ruby/garnet in the glass, the Australian a bit deeper in color but lighter in alcohol (12.5% vs. 13.5% for the Chilean). Don & Sons must have been shooting for the same flavor target when sourcing these lots, because they are similar. They both offer up light spicy red berry and black cherry fruit aromas. But the Chilean sibling has a bit more roasted, you might say earthy, expresso character. The Australian shows a bit more fruit and is a little softer with its cola and vanilla sensibilities. Neither is big, bold, or an artisan's statement. Both are easygoing, here for the now, for the drinking, and at home with a bit of a chill on the wine to take the edge of the summer heat.

Don and Son's timing is right on the money. You can't go wrong with either of these Pinot Noirs right now, and you might even have as much fun comparing them as I did.

Price: $5.50 (Charlotte). Closure: Neocork (Synthetic LDPE cork, recyclable).
Alcohol content: 12.5% (Australia) - 13.5% (Chile).

The Hunt for October Red

Click for a larger picture of these bottles.

The hunt for October red has turned up a whole lot of alternatives. Here are four to get the week off on the right track. I love them all and have repeated them in search of my favorite. I can't say which is best because they're all top notch, each perfect for the season, and each priced at about $15 or under per bottle. Two are from Spain, continuing on my October theme; one is French and one from Washington State. Perhaps the balance of the month will turn up something from California.

Eric Soloman's European Cellars is an importer many people trust. It's like a seal of approval for any Spanish wine in the eyes of many value conscious Americans. Eric brings us Capçanes Mas Donís Montsant Red 2004 ($15) and Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Tempranillo Roble 2005 ($13). Both are deep purple in the glass, but the Ercavio has more of an unfiltered appearance, showing some haziness under a halogen beam.

Mas Donís 2004 is mostly old-vine Grenache (80% Grenache with 20% Syrah) and has a perfumed black cherry nose with teaberry and hints of pencil lead. The body is medium, the flavor's tart and the mouth feel is moderately tannic. The cherry fruit along with some vanilla flavors come together nicely in the dusty dry finish. The only thing I don't like is the plastic cork. Why must anyone use that blasted plastic cork? Alcohol content: 14%.

Ercavio Tempranillo 2005 spent 5 months in French American oak and has a lovely aroma of black raspberry, loganberry and apple pie spice, plus the scent of a tobacco shop. Lush and fruit forward, this is what I would describe as a masculine comfort wine, and it would pair perfectly with a cheeseburger. The closure is a Nomacork*. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Jean-Philippe Bourgeois was the General Manager for Eric Solomon for 6 years, and now he is bringing French values to the American market. Château Capion 1C Rouge 2005 (Vin de Pays de l'Hérault, $13) is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and was barrel aged for 14 months. That sounds like a recipe for a great Bordeaux but this gem of a red comes from further south. Still you get the deep purple color and aromas of black currants, dark berries and hints of vanilla. The rich blackberry cobbler flavors envelop the mouth in a far reaching luscious dry finish.

The Magnificent Wine Company is the mass-production wing of K Vintners of Walla Walla, Washington. KV is the project of Charles Smith who brings us such magnificent wines as "The Creator". You might walk right past House Wine 2005 ($11) due to the rather "in your face" and non-standard graphics on the label. You might mistake it for a generic red blend but it's anything but. The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 11% Syrah, 3% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Here's another ideal Bordeaux blend, and the latitiude is virtually the same as Bordeaux. The resulting aromas and flavors are much better than the average house wine, with dark berry flavors and aromas, resolving nicely in to a lush dry finish that echoes the virtues of barrel aging. The closure is a real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

*The Nomacork is a composite resin artificial cork that is similar to the Neocork, but the Nomacork brand is much more popular in terms of units sold.

Martin Codax Rias Baixas Albarino 2006

Martín Códax is a Galician Troubadour who lived some 7 centuries ago; his writings were rediscovered in the last century by an antiquarian bookseller in Madrid. The name was given to the winery what produces this Albariño by the same name. Bodegas Martín Códax also produces Burgans Albariño as well as herb and coffee liqueurs.

Like the medieval troubadour Martín Códax, the namesake Albariño is an unwashed expression of the place as well as the grape.

Outstanding value ($14). Closure: Neocork. Alcohol content: 13%.

Style: Exotic, juicy round, fruity and refreshingly dry.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale straw with a greenish tint. Aromas: Mandarin, lime, pear and cold blossoms. Medium-bodied, juicy and tart on the tongue, the pear and citrus medley flavors play out over a lengthy dry finish.

Comment: “In Spain, the dead are more alive than the dead of any other country in the world.” -  Federico Garcia Lorca

Winewaves reviewed Bodegas Martín Códax Burgans Albariño 2005.

Zaca Mesa Santa Ynez Valley Viognier 2005

Zaca Mesa is thirty-something now and has developed into a very well managed and focused wine estate that practices "sustainable winegrowing". Through a winnowing process they found Rhône varietals (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier, and Roussanne) grow best on their sprawling property north of Solvang. Although they also produce Chardonnay from vines planted in the 1970's.

Clay Brock follows a string of highly successful Winemakers. He reports Viognier 2005 was fermented in stainless steel and neutral oak barrels, aged 3 months on the lees but not allowed to go through malolactic fermentation. Filtering was "gentle".

Excellent value ($15). Closure: Neocork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Style: Aromatic fruit, lightly floral, round body, crisp finish.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Light golden straw. Aromas: Peach, mandarin orange and cold blossoms. The mouthfeel is nicely round and juicy tart. Layers of citrus fruit, peaches and cream reverberate in the crisp dry finish.

Comment: Chill gently; this natural beauty will easily form "wine diamonds", or tartaric acid crystals. This is considered by many a good sign for a white wine. If you're bothered by them, you can filter them out.

Sebeka Western Cape Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Following a trend that's long in the tooth, wine giant Gallo is using the Cheetah as their symbol for marketing the new Sebeka line. Everyone is saying the "critter craze" has run its course and we need to move on. But what's a brand manager to do when given the task to come up with a marketing icon for a new $7 South African wine; one that will compete with Yellow Tail?

Evidently Gallo believes heavy marketing and promotion plus an over the top floor display will make this Cheetah hunt. But from an informed wine consumer's point of view it's somewhat of an insult. Animals on labels are still fair game but one needs to be more creative with them and do a better job of connecting the animal, the brand and the wine's story. If South African wine is a bit mysterious, how does hitting us over the head with a cheetah help tell the story?

The name Sebeka is just as superficial and non-explanative. It was recently posited (at Grape.co.za) that "Sebeka in the isiXhosa and isiZulu languages means something that is (has been) stored or laid down", but is seems more likely that Gallo just thought it sounded good. Are they aware that Sebeka is a town in Minnesota, population 710?

Gallo is working with Swartland Winery for the source of wine for the Sebeka brand, using fruit from the Western Cape region north of Cape Town.

Very nice value ($7). Closure: Neocork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Style: Crisp, citrusy, grassy, lightly fruity, palate cleansing.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale straw. Aromas: Melon, grass, and slight hints of sweet marshmallow and banana that reminds me of a compound flavorists use called "ethyl maltol". The mouthfeel is light and tart, with lemon, green apple and lime rind flavors that finish nicely dry and palate cleansing.

Comment: If you can get past the Cheetah coalition, the price is right on this wild white.

Mad Dogs & Englishmen Jumilla Monastrell 2005

It was Noel Coward who penned the lampoon tune in 1932 what shares the name of this wine. The irreverant wit Coward was adept at poking fun at the snobbery of British aristocracy.

"At twelve noon the natives swoon and no further work is done, But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun."

Mad Dogs & Englishmen the wine is another of the "wine-antisnob" Peter Click's imports, this one from Jumilla Spain. Jumilla is hot and dry, the kind of place where at midday one would be well advised to retreat and take a siesta. There Monastrell is the thing, a grape also known as Mourvedre. The 2005 vintage of Mad Dogs is half Monastrell (from 30-year-old un-grafted vines), plus 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Shiraz, barrel-aged.

Excellent value ($9). Closure: Neocork. Alcohol content: 14%.

Style: Fruit-forward, youthful and boldly seasoned, minerally.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby, translucent. Aromas: Cassis, loganberry and chocolate. Medium-bodied with moderate young tannins, the plethora of raspy fruit layers nicely over cocoa, white pepper and gravel. The finish is warm and dry as Noel Coward's wit.

Comment: Here's a no fuss way to hot the nail on the head with a Spanish red. Juxtapose it with filet mignon, medium rare.