winewaves

The Hunt for October Red

Click for a larger picture of these bottles.

The hunt for October red has turned up a whole lot of alternatives. Here are four to get the week off on the right track. I love them all and have repeated them in search of my favorite. I can't say which is best because they're all top notch, each perfect for the season, and each priced at about $15 or under per bottle. Two are from Spain, continuing on my October theme; one is French and one from Washington State. Perhaps the balance of the month will turn up something from California.

Eric Soloman's European Cellars is an importer many people trust. It's like a seal of approval for any Spanish wine in the eyes of many value conscious Americans. Eric brings us Capçanes Mas Donís Montsant Red 2004 ($15) and Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Tempranillo Roble 2005 ($13). Both are deep purple in the glass, but the Ercavio has more of an unfiltered appearance, showing some haziness under a halogen beam.

Mas Donís 2004 is mostly old-vine Grenache (80% Grenache with 20% Syrah) and has a perfumed black cherry nose with teaberry and hints of pencil lead. The body is medium, the flavor's tart and the mouth feel is moderately tannic. The cherry fruit along with some vanilla flavors come together nicely in the dusty dry finish. The only thing I don't like is the plastic cork. Why must anyone use that blasted plastic cork? Alcohol content: 14%.

Ercavio Tempranillo 2005 spent 5 months in French American oak and has a lovely aroma of black raspberry, loganberry and apple pie spice, plus the scent of a tobacco shop. Lush and fruit forward, this is what I would describe as a masculine comfort wine, and it would pair perfectly with a cheeseburger. The closure is a Nomacork*. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Jean-Philippe Bourgeois was the General Manager for Eric Solomon for 6 years, and now he is bringing French values to the American market. Château Capion 1C Rouge 2005 (Vin de Pays de l'Hérault, $13) is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and was barrel aged for 14 months. That sounds like a recipe for a great Bordeaux but this gem of a red comes from further south. Still you get the deep purple color and aromas of black currants, dark berries and hints of vanilla. The rich blackberry cobbler flavors envelop the mouth in a far reaching luscious dry finish.

The Magnificent Wine Company is the mass-production wing of K Vintners of Walla Walla, Washington. KV is the project of Charles Smith who brings us such magnificent wines as "The Creator". You might walk right past House Wine 2005 ($11) due to the rather "in your face" and non-standard graphics on the label. You might mistake it for a generic red blend but it's anything but. The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 11% Syrah, 3% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Here's another ideal Bordeaux blend, and the latitiude is virtually the same as Bordeaux. The resulting aromas and flavors are much better than the average house wine, with dark berry flavors and aromas, resolving nicely in to a lush dry finish that echoes the virtues of barrel aging. The closure is a real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

*The Nomacork is a composite resin artificial cork that is similar to the Neocork, but the Nomacork brand is much more popular in terms of units sold.

Pannotia Vineyards La Tierra De Castilla Garnacha 2006

Pannotia Vineyards is a virtual winery whose name was chosen to signify bringing together the wine world ("all the world is a single continent" = Pannotia). The founders describe Pannotia as "a new concept in wine, offering American wine lovers a portfolio of emblematic wines from around the world". Begun in the Spring of 2006, Pannotia managed to sell 10,000 cases in year 1 and their goal is 20,000 this year. They have put together a nice portfolio of what I would call "alternative wines", including Spanish Grenache, Argentine Malbec, Torrontes, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mendocino Zinfandel.

Pannotia brought on board Master Sommelier and Master of Wine Doug Frost as their consultant. I say he's a good choice. After all, who better to help break through the vast wine landscape than probably the only person with his level of wine expertise who also has a vast collection of punk rock and weird music records. Pannotia obviously does not want their wines to be confused with "your father's Oldsmobile".

Pannotia's labels currently all feature paintings by Cedar Falls, Iowa artist Gary Kelley. Gary has been hard at it producing works and perfecting his vibrant style for 35 years. It was Kelley's artwork that first made me take notice of Pannotia's line. Kelley's works range in scale from wine labels to 80-foot murals. You may have seen his murals in Barnes & Noble or his illustrations in Rolling Stone magazine.

Pannotia Garnacha 2006 is sourced from "the limestone hills south of Madrid".

In the glass the color is vibrant, deep candy apple red with bright purple edges and translucent. Sour cherry and framboise fruitiness is surrounded by black pepper and nuanced with a little bit of ash. Youthful bones and a medium body carry the dried cherry and pepper flavors well.

Excellent value ($12). Closure: Plastic cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Yep, this is an emblematic Spanish Garnacha (Grenache).

St. Francis Sonoma County RED 2004

St. Francis is known for Merlot, and in this offering they pony up some great juice in a blended format that has a lot to offer any empty wine glass. Cleverly their blend is simply RED, and each case features twelve different labels sporting variations on "splats" of red wine.

This year's RED blend is 60% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cab Franc and 4% Zinfandel, all 100% is Sonoma County grown fruit according to Winemaker Tom Mackey.

Outstanding value ($11). Closure: Plastic cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Style: Fruit-forward with just a bit of earthiness, with some oak spice, dry.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple ruby, translucent. Aromas: Sweet spicy oak notes overlay dried cherry, redcurrant and loganberry liqueur, backed by earthy forest notes. Medium-bodied and dusty dry; the spicy fruity flavors are balanced by enough structure and an earthiness that work together in a charismatic finish.

Comment: I've got friends in Merlot places.

R. H. Phillips Night Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2005

Here's a wine paradox. It's easier to find a great deal on a Chardonnay than a Sauvignon Blanc, even though the latter is much less likely to see any costly oak. Vincor's R. H. Phillips Winery does an admirable job with their Night Harvest Sauvignon Blanc from Dunnigan Hills, delivering a 1.5 Liter bottle at about the 750 ml. price.

Dunnigan Hills is over the Coast Range from Calistoga, some 30 miles East. The climate is warmer during the day so harvest takes place at night.

Excellent value: $13/1.5 Liter. Closure: Plastic cork. Alcohol content: 12.5%.

Style: Vibrant, citrusy, crisp and light.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale golden straw. Aromas: Quince, lime, cold blossoms, sage/grass. Light-bodied and nicely tart, the citrusy herbal flavors are refreshing in the clean dry finish which also shows a slight glint of flint.

Comment: Two for the price of one plus a dollar.

Burgans Rias Baixas Albarino 2005

Rias Baixas is in Galicia, in the northwestern area of Spain bordering the sea; some of it is actually north of Portugal.  This is one of the few places where Albariño flourishes and can be counted upon to produce such a noble wine. The area is more humid and wet than the typical continental wine growing climate and the seafood based cuisine is inextricably linked to the winemaking.

Burgans Albarino is made at Bodegas Martín Códax by Luciano Almoedo. A long-time promoter of Albariño in Spain, Luciano championed the initial designation of the Rias-Baixas appellation, and he was the first leader of the AOC. In order for a wine to receive the Rias-Baixas designation, it must be 100% Albariño.

Bodegas Martín Códax is located in the fertile Salnes Valley on the Mont Burgans, this wine's namesake.

Importer Eric Soloman is credited with blending the lots of 100% Albariño which are fermented and aged in stainless steel.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale golden straw. Aromas: Rich, alive, flowery peach and green melon. On the tongue, this lively alternative white is also medium-bodied and fairly well rounded off, even a bit lush without being heavy or hot. Ripe peach, grapefruit and mandarin flavors make for a long finish that's light, dry and lively.

Excellent value ($15).  Closure: Plastic "cork".  Alcohol content: 12.5%.

Borsao Viña Borgia Campo De Borja Grenache 2005

Spain is still churning out some of the best red wine buys, like the new vintage of Jorge Ordoñez' real Spanish value, Viña Borgia.  Sporting a new modern label, the wine is framed like a Cote du Rhone, but comes across as more casual and abstract.

The 2005 vintage of this 100% Garnacha (Grenache) from Campo de Borja* was vinified all the way in stainless steel.

Tasting Notes: Color: Deep purple ruby, semi-opaque.  Aromas: Blackcurrant jam, cassis liqueur, plum, and hints of white pepper.  On the tongue the body is medium with plenty of peppery young tannins.  Then a plethora of dark fruit essences evolve in a dusty dry finish.

Excellent value ($7).  Closure: Plastic artificial cork.  Alcohol content: 14%.

Campo de Borja is a D.O. located in the political region of Aragón. This region is west of Barcelona and northeast of Madrid, just north of Catalyud and Cava.

Winewaves reviewed the 2004 vintage of Viña Borgia Campo De Borja in March, 2006.

Dardano Zara Langhe Rosso 2004

Located in northwest Italy, east of Monaco and in from the sea, Piedmont is known for Barolo and Barbaresco, but this under-$15 perfumed red also hails from the region.  It comes in the heaviest 750ml wine bottle you've ever lifted, while inside is a trendy Italian-style red with lots of fruit and character.

Dardano Zara Langhe Rosso 2004 is half Dolcetto and half Barbera.  Dardano is a family owned winery in Serralunga D'Alba.

Tasting Notes: Color: Deep ruby translucent.  Aromas: Black cherry, cocoa, vanilla, plus noticeable rose and spice tones.  The fruit-forward cherry and pomegranate flavors are framed in a medium body with nice acidity and a dry moderately tannic finish.

Very nice value ($13).  Closure: Plastic "cork".  Alcohol content: 13%.

Ninet de Pena Rosé 2004

The 'kid' ('ninet' in Catalan) on the label reflects the not-so-serious dry rosé inside.  Like the wine, the cartoon corkscrew is androgynous, with feminine style and that screw between its legs.

Dan Kravitz' Hand Picked Selections reports the Syrah (60%) and Grenache (40%) in Ninet de Pena Rose 2004 is from Cases de Pene.  This area, although technically part of France, is really considered part of Catalonia*, near the border with Spain.

Tasting Notes: Color: Blood orange pink, transparent.  Aromas: Strawberry, watermelon, Campari Liqueur, sour candy, and hints of rose and tea.  The body is light, tart, crisp and dry, with mild tannins.  Light berry and slightly bitter citrus flavors wake up your appetite.

Closure: Plastic "cork".  Excellent value ($8).  Alcohol content: 12.5%.

Food pairing: Tuna Salad with chips.

*Catalonia encompasses parts of Spain and France and its 8 million (+/-) people consider Barcelona their capital city, regardless of whether French or Spanish.  Much of the world's important modern art has been produced in Catalonia, from Dali, Picasso and Miro, among others.

Heron Sexto Terra Alta 2004

Captured in an everyday-priced red wine is this contemporary masterwork that plays on the bold traditions and attitudes of Catalonia. 2004 is the introductory vintage for Laely Heron's new Sexto red blend from Terra Alta Spain.

Terra Alta is in northeastern Spain, in the driest area of Catalonia.  This region is known for its views of the sea and served as material for Picasso and Dali landscapes.

The Sexto 2004 blend is 33% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 20% Tempranillo, 6% Lledoner Pelut Noir, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Syrah.  The Grenache, Carignan and Lledoner Pelut Noir were sourced from vines at least 60 years old.  Lledoner Pelut Noir is a "hairy" relative of grenache.  The lots received 8 months aging in new, 1 and 2-year-old French oak barrels. Alcohol: 13.5%.

Tasting Notes: Color: Deep ruby semi-opaque.  Aromas: Dried cherry, bourbon, backed by hints of citrus rind, spice and cold blossoms.  The mouthfeel is medium-bodied, approaching sour, and dusty dry with moderate tannins.  Sour cherry, white pepper, spiced tea flavors persist in the warm dry rustic finish.

Closure: Artificial plastic "cork".  Excellent value ($13).  Food pairing: Anything with a spicy red sauce.

Winewaves recently reviewed Heron Pinot Noir.

Bodegas Virgen De La Sierra Yasa Calatayud Old Vines Macabeo 2005

Old vines can make a refreshing young white wine with character.

Case in point: this offering from Bodegas Virgen De La Sierra. The white grape Macabeo is known as Viura in Rioja, and it is commonly used in the production of Cava. The source of fruit for Yasa is vines at least 50 years old, growing in dry rocky soil at 3,000 foot elevation. Yields have been limited to produce more intense fruit. Tasting Notes.  Color: Pale straw. Aromas: Tropical, with suggestions of pineapple, plus citrus and peach. On the tongue, this light-bodied, crisp dry white has tart citrusy notes dominating the palate-cleansing finish. Closure: Plastic artificial "cork". Excellent value ($10).