winewaves

Rock Solid Bargain: Bodegas El Chantre Ramos-Paul Ronda Proprietary Red 2004

Don't be surprised if a few bargains pop up in this recession. Here's a terrific wine that I found on sale here in Nashville. At its release price of around $50 and up, it was beyond my reach. But at $20, I took it home.

This is the kind of high-end wine I like, and wouldn't be disappointed if I had to pay the regular price. This is a very firm wine with a unique sensibility, a wine with longevity; some would say terroir. Some high-end wines are designed to appeal to people in higher income brackets. Ramos-Paul is something more rare than that, more genuine.

Ramos-Paul 2004 originates from southern Spain in Andalusia, near Ronda. This is a rocky area, very rocky. Bodegas El Chantre is owned by José Manuel Ramos-Paul, hence the namesake for this wine. The blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Tempranillo, 15% Syrah, and 10% Merlot.

There's plenty of debate about whether you can smell rocks, or other pure terroir characteristics in wine, but that was the first thing I picked up on in this wine. Then the perfumed fruit, spice and roasted notes materialized. Those aromas include blackberry liqueur, cedar, framboise and even dark chocolate and tobacco shop. On the tongue, this is a very young, big, bold wine. If you have one of those ingenious decanting devices, here is a wine to test it on. I like the very firm, gravelly, perhaps even chalky tannins. The fruit is liqueur-like, but bone dry of course. By liqueur-like, I mean intense and pure, not at all sweet. The finish demonstrates this wine's longevity.

Price: $20 (Nashville, Sale). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

California Chardonnay Never Gets Old: Geode Santa Barbara 2006 and William Hill Napa 2005

Leave it to a baby boomer to latch onto this millennial wine label concept. Forgive me; the label goes with the new table we just bought from Pier 1 Imports, that place where the millennial generation now shops. The proverbial "we" refers to the writer, namely me, and my civil union partner of nearly 20 years, or whatever is allowed to be said given we do not fall into the category of "one man and one woman".

Geode is a wine concept. It is a design. It is targeted marketing. This is its first vintage. It over-delivers. That's a good thing. Quick, before they sell it off to a larger company keen on watering it down and milking the label as a cash cow, buy it and drink up.

If they are going to wing these concepts out at us, then we need to know when to buy and when to pass. We need to be as fickle about our preferences as they are about their focus group results. My experience is this type of concept is best when it starts out. They can evolve into something even better, but rarely. Again I say, buy now and drink up. Just don't get married to it. Play the field. Be gay with California wine - don't get married.

White Rocket Wine Company has done a great job with Geode Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2006. Chardonnay is the proverbial "dead horse" in many ways these days, so it takes a strong concept, product and price to make hay. True to form as a Santa Barbara County Chardonnay, this newbie takes on hints of Puligny-Montrachet, a remarkable feat for a sub-$15 wine, Geode is packed with oodles of honeyed botrytis overtones and delicious tropical fruit flavors. The honey is in the head space and the pineapple, mango and lemon-lime grace the palate in a sophisticated way. The performance is very well rounded, creamy on the palate, yet the finish is crisp dry.

Veteran wine maker Melissa Bates is credited with this stellar value laden effort. She reportedly gave this wine an average of 8 months in oak, 3/4 French, 1/4 new.

Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

They maybe should start calling Napa Chardonnay simply, "a glass of white Napa". Chardonnay seems so generic, especially in the days of now, when "mom-and-pop" wineries are a romantic thing of the almost-past. Last year William Hill Estate changed hands, leaving the portfolio of Jim Beam's peeps and joining the ranks of E&J Gallo's decendents' peeps. But this is Napa juice, so I say, call it "a glass of white Napa". It sounds more distinguished than, say, a glass of Gallo's William Hill Napa Chardonnay.

By the way, do you know how to tell right away if that winery you're researching is owned by one of the large "wine umbrella portfolio management groups", without googling it? Here's a hint: If they ask you when you're born, before you check out their homepage, tell them you're born on January 1st 1901. And rest assured, you're under a big umbrella.

Okay, now that we've established that Gallo bought a Napa property with lots of history and genuine character, let's give them credit for injecting the house with efficiency without sacrificing quality. Under Gallo's umbrella, William Hill can compete better in the reality known as wine 2.0, the modern wine marketing landscape. As part of an entire "aisle" of offerings, this label can wield more muscle than it could stand-alone. We get better deals as a result. When they don't water it down, we stand to benefit by such an arrangement.

Reportedly, the fruit for William Hill Napa Chardonnay 2005 is from Carneros and Atlas Peak. Malolactic fermentation and oak aging inject the wine with richness, layered atop the lean acidic structure begotten from the cool climate vineyards. The oak influence is noticeable, reinforcing the tropical mango and perfumed lemon aromas and flavors. Here is a successful baby Chassagne-Montrachet, if you dare call it that. I call it a darn good glass of "white Napa".

Price: $13 (Nashville, on sale). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

Beautifully conceptual these wines, both of them. This is what Chardonnay is all about, and it's amazing how affordable they are.

Can the Circle Be Unbroken? Bogle Phantom 2005

In between the last sips of the last glass of this bottle of Bogle Phantom 2005, I pick up my blue guitar and strum a few measures of that old hymn and wonder what it means. What circle? The reason this tune is on my mind has to do with the seemingly imminent passing of an uncle. He's about to leave a gap in the circle here, and I suppose he will join the circle of those who left before. This is a favorite song of his and he is on my mind.

Whenever I play my guitar, there are phantoms in my head. One tends to play tunes written or performed by those who have already left the room. I first picked up a guitar as a point of entry into the head of one such person. You can learn a lot from those who pass before.

Bogle Phantom turns out to be a lush wine, offering up lots of fruit preserves flavors and aromas, wrapped in sweet spicy oak overtones. Plummy, cherry and currant fruit abounds. The spice is a bit along the lines of a Moroccan blend, and there's a touch of vanilla in there as well.

The blend is 55% Petite Sirah, 42% Zinfandel, with the balance being Mourvedre (Monastrell). The spicy notes are brought out through the time spent lying in American oak barrels. Bogle is known for giving a lot of wine for the money, and Phantom always sells out quickly. I guess that's why they call it Phantom - it's elusive - hard to get a hold of, so to speak.

Earlier in the evening, we paired Phantom with some barbecue beef, of the sweet tomato variety. Anything of that hearty stick-to-your-ribs sort of food will pair well. Now that the last sip is gone, I put down my guitar and let go of the day.

Price: $19 (Nashville). Closure: real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%

Zins Off the Beaten Path: Girasole Mendocino Zinfandel 2006 and Renwood Sierra Foothills Zinfandel 2005

Among the reds, Zinfandel is the most primal and comforting. Often seen as outclassed by buttoned-down Cabernet, temperamental Pinot Noir, or blockbuster Shiraz, Zin dispenses with all the formalities, allowing you to find your Z-spot. It's like riding down the beach road, after the tourists have left for the season, with a sunset and tail wind behind you. Zin is the perfect wine for a slowdown, be it a weekend off or an economic meltdown.

Often brutally strong, going upwards of 16.5% ethanol, there are those Zinfandels that deliver lots of flavor at 13.5%. Everyone knows Dry Creek Valley, Napa, Paso Robles and Lodi are home to great Zins, but how about Mendocino or the Sierra Foothills? These are Zins off the beaten path.

Girasole Vineyards Mendocino Zinfandel 2006 is made from organic grapes, which adds to the comfort factor. Organic is getting popular on wine labels, but you don't see it on many Zinfandels. Expect aromas of blackberry cola with hints of earthy menthol and sage. Red-fruity, spicy-tart, and slightly earthy on the palate, the finish is quite dusty and gripping without being heavy.

Price: $12 (Shallotte, NC). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Renwood Sierra Foothills Zinfandel 2005 is loaded with cherry pie, mocha, and tobacco aromas. Lush and soft for a Zin, the red fruit is ample, and then soft tannins and a faint whiff of sweet pipe smoke lingers in the finish.

Price: $12 (Shallotte, NC). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Put something on the grill, raise a glass of either of these Zinfandels, and toast the quiet comfort that only comes from every third cottage on the street being empty and for sale.

Hardly Petite: Michael David Lodi Petite Petit 2006 and EOS Paso Robles Petite Sirah 2004

Petite Sirah was originally known as Durif, named after Dr. François Durif who first crossed French Syrah and Peloursin in 1880. Acreage of this misunderstood grape has been on a roller coaster ever since, but is on an upswing once again.

Michael David Lodi Petite Petit 2006 is the perfect wine for the election season. Circus elephants grace the label, and a couple of glasses will make you believe Sarah Palin has foreign policy experience.

Like elephants whose size is imposing, Petite Petit is large. But also like the elephant, the personality is sweet, and the only risk posed is that of being stepped on. Michael-David's signature "smokehouse" aromas waft past the very ample aromas of ripe plummy fruit. On the tongue, the fruit is sweet, and the texture is smooth.

Petite Petit gets its name from the fact that a minor (15%) portion of Petit Verdot is blended in. All the fruit is sourced from Lodi, and the aging is 14 months in French oak.

Price: $17 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content:  14.5%.

You might think someone just opened a fancy box of chocolates when you sniff EOS Petite Sirah 2004. Overtones of chocolate, caramel and nuts combine with loganberry fruit to create a nose that's coming into its own right now.

On the tongue, the EOS is brawny, not petite by any means. Bold and not for the meek, the fruit is deep and remains quite tart for a 4-year-old. There are plenty of tannins in the finish to carry the plethora of fruit and spice flavors.

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

These are both very nice value-priced Petite Sirah's worthy of staining your newly whitened teeth. If pressed, I would take the EOS overall (by a nose), and paired with anything chocolate. On the other hand, I would take the Petite Petit for being best on the tongue, and for pairing with Barbecue.

Petite Sirah is at its best when paired with winter savory dishes like stews or pot roasts, but don't hesitate to serve it like Zinfandel, with burgers, pizza, chocolate, barbecue, or even your favorite smokable, if you're so inclined. For more information about Petite Sirah, visit the advocacy group: P.S. I Love You.

For all you Vince Neil (Motley Crüe) fans out there, EOS is working with Vince and now has a Vince Neil Petite Sirah available over the internet only. It's really affordable, and here's the link to the EOS web site where you can find it as long as it's available: click here.

Not Your Father's Gallo? Starborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 and Da Vinci Chianti DOCG 2006

E & J Gallo Winery is doing a good job with their vast portfolio these days, and they seem to understand the sweet spot of the market, $8-$15 a bottle wines. But telling someone "this is a new wine from Gallo" doesn't help sell it. There is a negative stigma, a sense that a Gallo wine is something "my father drank". I think people want a story to go with a wine, even a bottle of wine that doesn't cost a lot. Wine is about romance, isn't it? So, what do you do if you're Gallo? You have great connections, great buying power, you know how to deliver, but you don't have the "street cred" of a boutique winery? Answer: You "make up" some concepts, put them in front of focus groups, go with the apparent "winners", and try to over-deliver with the product.

My past week was busier than usual, and none of the wines I was able to taste could be considered an authentic "boutique" wine. But I was surprised (and delighted) by the quality Gallo is putting into these bottles. Mind you, the concepts are "corny", but if it's what's in the bottle, and what you're paying that matters, then take note.

Starborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007
First of all, Starborough is too close to "Marlborough" to avoid being found guilty of obvious marketing alliteration. The label is too conceptual to be the result of anything authentic. The colors try too hard to communicate the shrill, green, southern hemispheric nature of the wine inside the bottle.

Still, the label is eye-catching, and the price is really what makes you curious. At $10-11 (or less), you are struck by the savings potential versus the other New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs that are creeping towards $20. So, you give in and try. You are rewarded when one sniff and one sip reveals the wine is true to form. There is no doubt this is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. You get the gooseberry, the passionfruit, not to mention green pea and flinty minerality. The flavor on the tongue is shrill enough to thrill, even tending towards mustard seed. The finish is clean and dry, without any noticeable flaws.

It's none of my business of course, but I think Gallo should put this one in a 3 Liter box. The market is crying out for a good distinctive Sauvignon Blanc in a box, very much a premium/super-premium grade, priced competitively. At just under $30/3 Liter Box, this would fit the bill.

Price: $11 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Da Vinci Chianti DOCG 2006
It seems Chianti has been cheapened so in latter years. You feel your words are landing on deaf ears when you try to explain Chianti is a place, a region, and that the grape is predominately Sangiovese. Worst yet, many times over it is Macaroni Grill "Chianti" that people are seeking when they ask for Chianti by name. I wonder if this generic syndrome hasn't created a sense of "who cares" in the entry level Chianti market. How could Gallo address this market and "make hay"?

Da Vinci Chianti is Gallo's entry level Italian Tuscan red, priced at $10-12 a bottle.  The concept and label, like Starborough's, are over-developed and inauthentic. The Da Vinci label is simply too "Americanized" to have Italian wine "street cred". But, at this price, you give it a try anyway, especially if you happened to see a shelf talker touting a solid rating. As with Starborough, you are likely impressed that what's in the bottle is true to form, and in fact, over-delivers. There is nothing "fussy" about it. The body is substantial for an entry level Chianti, the structure is there, and of course you get the lovely cherry fruit and aromatic nose you look for in a Tuscan red. Too often I feel we over-pay for Italian reds, especially after the stories I hear from people who just returned from "the boot". But not here - the price is right.

Price: $12 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13%.

E & J Gallo's portfolio has a number of labels that I regularly recommend because they deliver great juice for the money. It all depends on how much you have to spend, of course, but some of their other labels I find easy to suggest are: Barefoot (inexpensive and easy for a crowd to like), Dancing Bull (Zin), Ecco Domani (Pinot Grigio), Martin Codax (great Albariño), Red Bicyclette (Rosé), Red Rock (Merlot), and Sebeka (Shiraz/Pinotage). These are not great label concepts, but after the bottle is opened, it's what's inside that counts. To be fair, I must admit that the Turning Leaf label, also one of Gallo's, has disappointed me personally on several occasions. Maybe the next vintage will change my mind on that?

As a postscript, Da Vinci is not actually a concept brand, but a bricks and mortar grower's cooperative in Tuscany. Da Vinci, let me better put it, is a very conceptual non-concept brand. To extend the reach of their offerings, according to the Company, Gallo uses "a variety of business models, depending on the opportunity that exists out there at the time." Good job - it's not easy to be the largest wine company (case sales, WBM, 2006), and deliver a boutique wine experience.

By way of marking this week's big event: To the people of Galveston, we raise a glass and toast to your resilience. When you are so privileged to live on the edge, you undoubtedly take the good with the occasionally bad. We wish you all the best in rebounding from Hurricane Ike.

A Look At Three 2006 Paso Robles Cabs: Robert Hall, Victor Hugo and Justin

Robert Hall is a most likable person. From my selfish point of view, his second career in the wine business has been more rewarding than his first career as a real estate developer in Minnesota. You wouldn't be blowing smoke or be guilty of sacrilege, if you called him the Robert Mondavi of Paso Robles.

Robert Hall Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is the personification of California Cabernet as I think of it; at once world class, modern, optimistic, expressive, and not overpriced. A lot of California Cabernets have forgotten about that last idea, not overpriced. But somehow, maybe due to the midwestern roots of the eternally youthful Mr. Hall, the Cab he puts his name on hasn't gotten priced out of my range. I'm rooting for his longevity, and that he hangs on to his winery as long as possible, so we can continue to buy his great wines at a great price.

Expect classic Cab aromas of black currants, cassis liqueur and sweet spice, with overtones of cedar. Neither under ripe nor a fruit bomb, this is a luxurious buttoned-down claret suitable for casual affairs. Neither opulent nor austere, neither stuffy nor nouveau riche, this Cab is clean, true to form, and it over-delivers. The textbook Cab flavors evolve nicely on the tongue, staying black in fruit character, and the structure asserts itself as the spice evolves in the cocoa-dust-laden finish.

This Cab is 80+% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc blended in. Barrel aging was 14 months.

Price: $18 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

A long time ago, Victor Hugo said, "My tastes are aristocratic, my actions democratic." The 19th century French poet and human rights activist expressed himself in many ways throughout his life, though he was perhaps best known for his epic work "Les Misérables". Conservative in his youth before becoming a "free-thinker" and advocate for the "common man" later in life, he said, "the wise man does not grow old, but ripens."

It is fitting that Victor Hugo Roberts chose to make the literary connection when he labeled his wines. Paso Robles is an appropriate place for free-thinking people to grow wise and ripen. We expect provocative no-holds-barred, expressive, let's say well-extracted, wines to come from Paso Robles. Victor Hugo (Roberts) delivers with Victor Hugo Cabernet 2006.

If someone put a brown bag on this Cab, you might not guess it for a Cab; you might be thinking Zinfandel. As Cabernet goes, this is a fruit bomb. If you're going to drop bombs, I say make them out of fruit. This is a most decadent Cabernet Sauvignon, the kind of Cab that makes you want to loosen you tie and get in the hot tub. Deep candy apple red in color, it has a slight haze to it that makes it seem opaque. The aromas are raspberry, blueberry, loganberry, nutmeg, sweet spice and hints of earth. On the tongue, black cherry and spice flavors carry forward the democratic decadence - hedonism for everyone. The finish is dusty dry with a nice kick to it. It's not a textbook Cab, but you can't help but like it.

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aging was 18 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels.

Price: $20 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.8%.

My favorite Victor Hugo quote? "Forty is the old age of youth; fifty the youth of old age." Why? I'll be fifty in December.

Justin Baldwin began pioneering wine making in Paso Robles in the early 1980's. Together with wife Deborah and their staff, the focus of Justin is combining old world tradition and new world techniques. They succeed with Justin Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. This is a complex, firm, steak wine.

Barrel aging was 18 months in 3/10 new oak, American and French, weighted more towards American.

The color is deep dark crimson, with an unfiltered slightly hazy appearance that makes it seem opaque. Expect tart cherry and blackberry flavors and aromas to dominate the palate, while spice, roasted and vanilla notes play over the fruit in the nose. All the while, tannins will likely keep a firm grip on your tongue. I found the finish to be dusty and gravelly, like a Pauillac, with a bit of vanilla being the last note.

Price: $25 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

I can only conclude one thing from comparing these outstanding, albeit different Paso Robles Cabs. That is, a trip to Paso Robles needs to be on my agenda for the very near future. It may not be as easy to get to as Napa, Sonoma, Santa Barbara, Temecula, Monterey, Mendocino, or Amador. But the pilgrim's path is never easy. Meanwhile, you can't go wrong with any of these Paso Cabs.

Château Candale Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2005

Wine making dates back 1800 years in Saint-Emilion, yet there seems to be plenty of controversy these days about the wine from here. Who are the top chateaux and who are not? This is the subject of a 2006 classification and more recently, a contrary court ruling earlier this year. Then, there is continuing talk about garagistes, rogue vintners who are known to make wine "out of a garage", willing to clash with gustatory traditions, and not shy about their asking prices.

Chateau De Candale is the second Adams French Vineyards 2005 Bordeaux I've tasted and reviewed here on Winewaves. I like Ch. Lagarosse, and I like Candale even more. In describing this wine, start at the end and work your way back to the beginning. The finish is lengthy and grows on you, and that's what you're probably looking for when spending $35 for a bottle. In this price range, length counts. The fruit eventually disappears, but the rocks stay on your tongue more than long enough to text your friends about it.

This is not an overly alcoholic wine, nor is it a fruit bomb. This is a fruit symphony in a major key, performed in such a way to make you stop and listen, an arresting presentation. There is a modernity to the way you are moved by this wine, a sense that the credit isn't all due to the grapes and the soil they spring from. Can you taste the conductor of this symphony?

Working back to the beginning, the texture is polished, and the flavors are layered. You taste a wealth of cherry and red berry flavors, from tart juice to dried fruit, demonstrating excellent balance, This comes on the heels of beautiful perfumed aromas of cherries, red currants, gentle cinnamon-like spice and a number of other essences that together bring to mind fine aged bourbon whiskey. There is a slight haze to the dark ruby color.

The blend is 80/20 Merlot/Cabernet Franc. Aging was 20+ months in reportedly all new French oak barrels. Less than 800 cases were produced.

Robert Parker says Saint-Emilion rates 99 points for the 2005 vintage. Most people will be looking for the big names that can be cellared for years or even decades. Here is a sensational buy for those like myself who are less patient and want to know what all the buzz is about now.

Price: $35 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2005

Unbeknownst to me, Bearboat Pinot Noir has been around a while. An unknown commodity to me when it arrived a couple of months ago in Nashville, I was destined to gravitate towards it. After all, it has all the pieces of the puzzle I'm looking for.

First, I like the label. It's smack dab in the middle of classic and tongue-in-cheek, with its engraved quality, somewhat sepia tones, and the humorous bears-in-the-boat illustration. Second, it's Russian River Pinot Noir, rarely a mistake to buy under $20. Next, there's the weighty burgundy bottle that you wouldn't want to drop on your foot, but you would want to open. And then there's all the hidden meanings. By that I mean the bear, primarily. The bear as the symbol of Russia. The bear as the symbol of California. And last but not least, the bear as the symbol of jocular middle-age gay guys (such as myself), who love to inhabit the Russian River area, particularly the town of Guerneville, often with cubs in tow.

I haven't yet grown into the body of a true bear, but that's due to all the jumping rope and bicycling that tends to keep me on the lean side. I don't have any facial hair, but that's a superficial manifestation. I'm a late bloomer, so maybe I can report back when I've reached true bear status and can afford to spend weekends in a cabin along the Russian River. Until then, I'll stick with sampling as many Russian River Pinots as I can.

Piper-Sonoma, owned by Remy Cointreau last time I checked, produces the Bearboat line. The line is reportedly a 60,000+ case business, including Chardonnay. How is it this juice never found its way past my lips before?

Nowadays $20 doesn't guarantee you a fabulous Pinot Noir experience, but rather, you're happy if you get something with some real character and finesse. With well-known wine maker and consultant Raphaël Brisbois reportedly combining his technical expertise with Piper-Sonoma's Pinot Noir sourcing prowess, you would be disappointed if something really good didn't emerge. And out of the Bodega Bay fog comes a classic palate pleaser.

Ten months in French oak is judicious, and lightly fining the wine leaves a hint of fog in the bright garnet color. Expect a Pinot that's a bit more towards red than black, but with some of both. Not surprisingly for a bubbly maker's efforts, a bit of toast surrounds the aromas of black cherry and red currant. On the tongue, you might say it's more like strawberry and red currant preserves, joined by a licorice "buzz" - more a mouth feel thing than that licorice candy or Ouzo you think of. The texture is downright silky. Overall, I give it high marks for freshness, fruit, and refined texture, and it's well worth the $20 price paid.

Bearboat goes great with, what else, wild salmon! It's only Monday, and we had a couple of end filet's from a sockeye, so this fish found its way onto our plates in the form of salmon cakes. Instead of the usual salmon from the can, we crisped the fish, then poached it the rest of the way in Picpoul de Pinet. Then we picked it into small pieces, let it cool, grated in some sweet onion, cracked in some pepper, lumped in some leftover mashed potatoes, shook in some whole wheat panko crumbs, shook in some celery seed, added a beated egg, and formed patties. Back into the original pan they went, with more olive oil and butter, and the result was lots better than the standard Monday night salmon cakes. Pinot Noir, in this case Bearboat, is a great match for such fare. The meal became complete with the side dishes: speckled butter beans, turnip greens, cole slaw and fresh heirloom tomatoes (for the 40th day in a row!).

Price: $20 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

The Schizophrenic Nature of Bordeaux Blend Minor Components: Hahn Estates Cabernet Franc 2006 and Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

There are six varieties allowed in Bordeaux red blends. On the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is king; whereas Merlot rules on the right bank. Then there is Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere. These are the "minor notes", that play an important role in rounding out each Chateau's proprietary claret. Of these four, Malbec stands on its own in Argentina, Carmenere does well on its own in Chile, but Cab Franc and Petit Verdot are much less frequently presented a lá carte.

Could it be that Cab Franc and Petit Verdot play the important role of improving the versatility of a claret that's based on Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot? If so, at their best, these are "chameleon" varieties, able to fit in with whatever surroundings they find themselves in. They are the "funny" grapes, the schizophrenic grapes, and that's a good thing. Thankfully, new world wine enterprises are experimenting with stand-alone Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Cab Franc is popular around Walla Walla, Washington, and Petit Verdot is gaining strength in Australia.

These two wines illustrate the positives of their schizophrenic nature, as well as pointing out the uniqueness they contribute to more noble blends.

Hahn Central Coast Cabernet Franc 2006

Cab Franc could be called the love grape, what requires lots of foreplay. It doesn't ripen until it's ready, and that typically means late November in the northern hemisphere. There is an advantage to taking your time, which is why I love Cab Franc.

When someone sticks their neck out and makes a Cab Franc, on its own, I want to taste it. Hahn Estates, who has a knack for turning out great value and authentic flavor, quietly released Cabernet Franc 2006. Figure most of their Cab Franc goes into their top notch affordable Meritage. Fortunately Hahn isn't afraid to throw caution to the wind and put out this Cab Franc.

You can expect tons of soft raspberry fruit packed into an atmosphere that's lightly perfumed and elegantly smoky.  Here is the embodiment of finesse, to be enjoyed at one's leisure. The fortuitous schizophrenia comes into play when pairing this Cab Franc with any mood or food. It goes great with everything. From cedar plank salmon to duck to steak, or just by itself, mix it up!

Price: $16 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.3%.

Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

Petit Verdot is said to play a role in "stiffening the mid-palate" of Cabernet Sauvignon based Bordeaux blends. It is used to deepen the color and add more tannic backbone. And, it is said to be the grape that contributes that "pencil shavings", or what I call "oregano" character. Some consider it a bit difficult to tame on its own, like Tannat.

In Australia, Petit Verdot has been coming into its own. In fact, Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot seems to sell better than its siblings in the range, that includes better known Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir. De Bortoli has consistently scored well with this Petit Verdot, pleasing the palates of all the world's gurus, from Food & Wine, to the Wine Advocate, to the Wine Spectator.

Expect lots of red ripe fruit, almost candy-like, to evolve out of your wine glass past your nose. I wouldn't disagree there is some essence of oregano here, although it's certainly not overwhelming. There isn't a lot of oak influence showing through, a fact that may just mean the integration job was masterfully executed. Sprinkle in a hint of tobacco, and that's it. The tannins are juicy but not harsh. Here again is a schizophrenic wine that can play well in a range of situations.

Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

No wonder these varieties find their way into fine Bordeaux blends and California "Meritage" blends. It's perhaps not that they impart some special, polarizing essence that must be kept in small amounts to be palatable. Quite to the contrary, it seems these are the moderating influences that bring an extreme Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot to the center.

Want to have even more fun? Mix these 2 lovely wines together!