winewaves

Red, White and Brews: Tait Ball Buster Shiraz 2006, Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier 2007, Duvel Belgian Ale, and Dogfish Head Punkin Ale

The 2006 edition of Bruno Tait's Ball Buster is true to form. Like Barack Obama, it's a velvet glove on an iron fist. This I verified on the night of the third Presidential debate of 2008, by drinking the third bottle to date.

Mind you, writing about it is not as easy as drinking it. It's so smooth on the surface, you get carried away, as if the Bush years are a thing of the past. If I were on death row, I would request as many glasses of Tait Ball Buster as I could get, as a prelude to the lethal injection that would be the ultimate anti-climax. I imagine a last supper of long-suffering Shiraz grapes, basket pressed to my lips before I turn blue.

Robert Parker's Jay Miller, a true hedonist of a reviewer, sees the virtue in Ball Buster '06, to the tune of 92 points. I first tasted Ball Buster 2005, drawn to the name. It was quite good; the 2006 seems even better, but that's probably just my eternal optimism getting the best of me.

Fact is, Bruno says this year's blend is 78% Shiraz, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. The iron fist manifests itself by way of the alcohol level that soars into the stratosphere without a trace of ethanol in the nose. The velvet glove is the cloak of the grape skins preserved from the vineyard into the glass.

Tait Ball Buster 2006 is deep dark purple ruby, as expected. You get aromas of loganberry, expresso, cedar and forest. Lush jammy red-to-black fruit, vanilla, then chocolate emerge, at first sweetly on the edges of the tongue. The finish is dusty dry with soft astringency on the center of the tongue.

Price: $19 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 15.7%.

Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc Viognier expresses the very irrational exuberance that got us into this economic mess. But it didn't, it just tastes that way. Like Sarah Palin, it's fresh, attractive and uncluttered, but alas, it's well crafted.

This alternative white wine blend will connect and resonate with most any white wine drinker. It tastes like perfectionism in a bottle. It comes out of left field but has the power to bring people together. I've tasted this wine in previous vintages, always found it to be pleasant, but this vintage really grabbed me.

Expect perfumed aromas of melon, pear, grapefruit and cold blossoms, plus overtones of sweet spice. On the tongue, bright acidity gives it a mouth-watering crisp edge. The finish, like Sarah Palin, gives a wink of sweetness, but the overall effect is palate-cleansing. Robert Parker himself rated this one 90 points, a real bragging point for an under-$15 USA-made white wine.

Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 12.8%.

Oktoberfest! I must confess that October has found me drinking more beer. Maybe it's Oktoberfest, or maybe I'm turning into a beer advocate. My paying job has me promoting brews, so I have a vested interest in gaining first hand experience. Research must involve all the senses. Yeah, that's it.

Not knowing much about beer, I stumbled onto a couple of good ones right off the bat. First, Duvel Belgian Strong Pale Ale. If you've tried it, you know about that amazing head. If you haven't tried it, and you're not dead yet, go get a bottle, chill, and pour it into a glass. The head defies gravity. It's like what I hoped whipped cream would be when I first learned of it, but it never was. Lightly bitter, unlike the hop-head brews that gather the limelight, beautifully crisp, like a champagne, refreshing and smooth, Duvel is the creme de la creme, literally and figuratively. It's not the latest thing, but no one appears to have improved on it. Expect to pay about $3-$4 a bottle (330 ml.). Alcohol content: 8.5%.

And then there's Dogfish Head Punkin Ale. 'Tis the season, and unlike the imitation over-hyped or over-hopped brews that pretend to convey the harvest, Dogfish really does. The color is beautiful, somewhere between a new minted copper penny and an October sunset. The aromas are complex, hinting at sweet baking spices and pumpkin, but also conveying lots of malt and even some hops. The flavor is a bribe that could make you do most anything.

Expect to pay about $8.99 for a 4-pack of 12 ounce bottles. Alcohol content: 7%. Don't miss out!

By way of a "plug", I recently installed high-proof beer sections into Frugal MacDoogal's web sites for Nashville and Fort Mill, SC (Charlotte, NC area). These sections combine my original bottle photos with a pinch of clever programming, some worthy graphics, and information from all over the place. So far, Frugal's is getting good results from this effort.

2 Nice Australian Red Blends: Heartland Stickleback 2006 and Marquis-Philips Sarah's Blend 2006

There may be several bottlings of Stickleback 2006 out there, or at least, I've seen different compositions quoted for this vintage. This bottle reads, "51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Shiraz, 10% Grenache". Stickleback has a lot of personality, and may not appeal to everyone equally. It's rather on the dark and brooding side, with lots of black fruit on the nose and some of those medicinal anise and eucalyptus overtones. For my money, this is a near perfect "10" in its price range, not over the top on alcohol (14%), and luxurious in terms of fruit and texture.  The finish is pepper spicy, warm and chocolaty, and continues to resonate deep black fruit all the way.

Ben Glaetzer is chief wine maker for this very affordable Heartland label project. Ben is perhaps best known for the Glaetzer range, including Amon Ra, Bishop and Wallace, all very upmarket. Maybe I'll be able to afford to drink Ben's high-priced stuff down the road, and it's quite excellent. But for now, I can't get enough of his Stickleback. It's rock star red, on an indie budget.

Price: $12 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14%.

Sarah's Blend 2006 is 60% Shiraz, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, with minor portions of Merlot and Cab Franc. The 2007 is already released, but the 2006 remains available and is drinking very well. There's a lot going on in this bottle, built around aromas of red currants, smoke, and vanilla, with cedar and sweet spice overtones. Lots of oak spice and lush red fruit flavors are awash on a sturdy frame. The finish is well integrated and long lasting.

Marquis-Philips no longer has anything to do with Sparky or Sarah Marquis. Rather, this is now the project of R Wines' Chris Ringland and Lisa Weatherell, and Grateful Palate Imports' Dan Philips. The fruit is sourced from McLaren Vale, and aged in French oak, seasoned, for 12 months. Philips and Ringland have a good number of highly successful labels in the market, from the lovely raspberry-laden Bitch Barossa Grenache, to the sensually brilliant Roogle Riesling.

Price: $16 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 15%.

A Weird Bottle, A Postage Stamp of a Label, A Big Mouth, A Screw Cap, and A Very Likeable Red Bordeaux: Francis Coppola Encyclopedia Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

At first, you can't wrap your mind around the "Erlenmeyer flask" shaped bottle and the other non-standard elements. Then you think, this must be a clever juxtaposition. Weird bottle, un-weird wine. No one would go to this length to draw attention to bad wine. Then you think, this isn't a wine to lay down, because you can't fit it in your wine rack. Good thing, because who wants to wait? What if you never get around to drinking it? It's better to drink wine, than to continually have to dust it.

The Coppola Companies latest concept wine is Encyclopedia. Now in the top 20 wine companies (ranking by case volume), Coppola is keen to get on, to offer more wines from more regions. The Encyclopedia concept is focused on unearthing wines that truly represent their regions. It appears Coppola isn't afraid to look different (on the outside), if it gets people to try what's inside. It's risky business I suppose. The wine inside better be excellent, and truly represent its region.

Encyclopedia Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 does it. You get plenty of black cherry from start to finish, nice complexity from overtones of herbs and mild oak spice, balanced soft tannins, and a very smooth, some might say elegant, texture. This isn't a monster Cab, rather, it's a very approachable Bordeaux that happens to be a Cab. The alcohol content is less than most California Cabernets. The fruit comes across like preserves. There aren't any rough edges. The finish evolves a restrained hint of vanilla and goes dusty dry as it should. This is a cut above expectations for an under-$15 Bordeaux.

This Cab turned out to be a great match for flank steak; medium-rare, dry-rubbed, pan-seared, grass-fed beef. It didn't overpower the rub, a nice aromatic combination of herbs and spices I probably could never repeat.

Price: $13 (Nashville). Alcohol content: 12.5%. Closure: Screw cap.

Not Your Father's Gallo? Starborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 and Da Vinci Chianti DOCG 2006

E & J Gallo Winery is doing a good job with their vast portfolio these days, and they seem to understand the sweet spot of the market, $8-$15 a bottle wines. But telling someone "this is a new wine from Gallo" doesn't help sell it. There is a negative stigma, a sense that a Gallo wine is something "my father drank". I think people want a story to go with a wine, even a bottle of wine that doesn't cost a lot. Wine is about romance, isn't it? So, what do you do if you're Gallo? You have great connections, great buying power, you know how to deliver, but you don't have the "street cred" of a boutique winery? Answer: You "make up" some concepts, put them in front of focus groups, go with the apparent "winners", and try to over-deliver with the product.

My past week was busier than usual, and none of the wines I was able to taste could be considered an authentic "boutique" wine. But I was surprised (and delighted) by the quality Gallo is putting into these bottles. Mind you, the concepts are "corny", but if it's what's in the bottle, and what you're paying that matters, then take note.

Starborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007
First of all, Starborough is too close to "Marlborough" to avoid being found guilty of obvious marketing alliteration. The label is too conceptual to be the result of anything authentic. The colors try too hard to communicate the shrill, green, southern hemispheric nature of the wine inside the bottle.

Still, the label is eye-catching, and the price is really what makes you curious. At $10-11 (or less), you are struck by the savings potential versus the other New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs that are creeping towards $20. So, you give in and try. You are rewarded when one sniff and one sip reveals the wine is true to form. There is no doubt this is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. You get the gooseberry, the passionfruit, not to mention green pea and flinty minerality. The flavor on the tongue is shrill enough to thrill, even tending towards mustard seed. The finish is clean and dry, without any noticeable flaws.

It's none of my business of course, but I think Gallo should put this one in a 3 Liter box. The market is crying out for a good distinctive Sauvignon Blanc in a box, very much a premium/super-premium grade, priced competitively. At just under $30/3 Liter Box, this would fit the bill.

Price: $11 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Da Vinci Chianti DOCG 2006
It seems Chianti has been cheapened so in latter years. You feel your words are landing on deaf ears when you try to explain Chianti is a place, a region, and that the grape is predominately Sangiovese. Worst yet, many times over it is Macaroni Grill "Chianti" that people are seeking when they ask for Chianti by name. I wonder if this generic syndrome hasn't created a sense of "who cares" in the entry level Chianti market. How could Gallo address this market and "make hay"?

Da Vinci Chianti is Gallo's entry level Italian Tuscan red, priced at $10-12 a bottle.  The concept and label, like Starborough's, are over-developed and inauthentic. The Da Vinci label is simply too "Americanized" to have Italian wine "street cred". But, at this price, you give it a try anyway, especially if you happened to see a shelf talker touting a solid rating. As with Starborough, you are likely impressed that what's in the bottle is true to form, and in fact, over-delivers. There is nothing "fussy" about it. The body is substantial for an entry level Chianti, the structure is there, and of course you get the lovely cherry fruit and aromatic nose you look for in a Tuscan red. Too often I feel we over-pay for Italian reds, especially after the stories I hear from people who just returned from "the boot". But not here - the price is right.

Price: $12 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13%.

E & J Gallo's portfolio has a number of labels that I regularly recommend because they deliver great juice for the money. It all depends on how much you have to spend, of course, but some of their other labels I find easy to suggest are: Barefoot (inexpensive and easy for a crowd to like), Dancing Bull (Zin), Ecco Domani (Pinot Grigio), Martin Codax (great Albariño), Red Bicyclette (Rosé), Red Rock (Merlot), and Sebeka (Shiraz/Pinotage). These are not great label concepts, but after the bottle is opened, it's what's inside that counts. To be fair, I must admit that the Turning Leaf label, also one of Gallo's, has disappointed me personally on several occasions. Maybe the next vintage will change my mind on that?

As a postscript, Da Vinci is not actually a concept brand, but a bricks and mortar grower's cooperative in Tuscany. Da Vinci, let me better put it, is a very conceptual non-concept brand. To extend the reach of their offerings, according to the Company, Gallo uses "a variety of business models, depending on the opportunity that exists out there at the time." Good job - it's not easy to be the largest wine company (case sales, WBM, 2006), and deliver a boutique wine experience.

By way of marking this week's big event: To the people of Galveston, we raise a glass and toast to your resilience. When you are so privileged to live on the edge, you undoubtedly take the good with the occasionally bad. We wish you all the best in rebounding from Hurricane Ike.

A to Z Wineworks Night & Day Oregon Red 2005

There is a Samuel Johnson quote on the back label that states, "The fact of twilight does not mean you cannot tell day from night." The choice of this obscure yet provocative and timely bite of wisdom from 300+ years ago would have to make you curious about what's in the bottle. It's a fair sight better than the reading on the back label of most bottles, or anything I could write. As they said in the 70's, "heavy, man". One would have to expect a deep wine experience to justify that line.

You won't be disappointed. There isn't a lot of buzz about wines from the Rogue Valley and surrounding area in southern Oregon. This part of the country is really out there. You can still get lost here, or perhaps you might "find yourself". A to Z Wineworks might have called this wine "Lost & Found", but "Night & Day" works fine. The points are, this is a well made Bordeaux-style blend and it's one that makes you think, maybe too much. This isn't a wine for mindless consumption.

A to Z Night & Day 2005 is 33% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, plus 6% Syrah, 6% Grenache, 6% Sangiovese, 2% Nebbiolo and 2% Tempranillo. The minor components stray from the Bordeaux theme, but tireless blending is a mark of the A to Z Wineworks. Often this skill is put to use assembling lots of Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, in search of synergy. Fortunately, they have not stopped with these better known Oregon grapes.

You might go on and on trying to describe this one, just as you might keep thinking about that Dr. Johnson quote on the back label. I'll say the aromas run the gamut of berries, from black to red, and there's tobacco and oregano in there with the fruit. The black is the base note, and the red is the melody. As you keep sniffing it, you pick up subtle wood spice, the atmosphere. On the tongue the intensity increases, there is pepper, and dusty cocoa tannins carry the mixed berry liqueur flavors through a rocky finish.

What did Dr. Johnson mean? I'm not sure, so how about another easier to get quote of his. "Wine makes a man more pleased with himself; I do not say that it makes him more pleasing to others."

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

The Schizophrenic Nature of Bordeaux Blend Minor Components: Hahn Estates Cabernet Franc 2006 and Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

There are six varieties allowed in Bordeaux red blends. On the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is king; whereas Merlot rules on the right bank. Then there is Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere. These are the "minor notes", that play an important role in rounding out each Chateau's proprietary claret. Of these four, Malbec stands on its own in Argentina, Carmenere does well on its own in Chile, but Cab Franc and Petit Verdot are much less frequently presented a lá carte.

Could it be that Cab Franc and Petit Verdot play the important role of improving the versatility of a claret that's based on Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot? If so, at their best, these are "chameleon" varieties, able to fit in with whatever surroundings they find themselves in. They are the "funny" grapes, the schizophrenic grapes, and that's a good thing. Thankfully, new world wine enterprises are experimenting with stand-alone Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Cab Franc is popular around Walla Walla, Washington, and Petit Verdot is gaining strength in Australia.

These two wines illustrate the positives of their schizophrenic nature, as well as pointing out the uniqueness they contribute to more noble blends.

Hahn Central Coast Cabernet Franc 2006

Cab Franc could be called the love grape, what requires lots of foreplay. It doesn't ripen until it's ready, and that typically means late November in the northern hemisphere. There is an advantage to taking your time, which is why I love Cab Franc.

When someone sticks their neck out and makes a Cab Franc, on its own, I want to taste it. Hahn Estates, who has a knack for turning out great value and authentic flavor, quietly released Cabernet Franc 2006. Figure most of their Cab Franc goes into their top notch affordable Meritage. Fortunately Hahn isn't afraid to throw caution to the wind and put out this Cab Franc.

You can expect tons of soft raspberry fruit packed into an atmosphere that's lightly perfumed and elegantly smoky.  Here is the embodiment of finesse, to be enjoyed at one's leisure. The fortuitous schizophrenia comes into play when pairing this Cab Franc with any mood or food. It goes great with everything. From cedar plank salmon to duck to steak, or just by itself, mix it up!

Price: $16 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.3%.

Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

Petit Verdot is said to play a role in "stiffening the mid-palate" of Cabernet Sauvignon based Bordeaux blends. It is used to deepen the color and add more tannic backbone. And, it is said to be the grape that contributes that "pencil shavings", or what I call "oregano" character. Some consider it a bit difficult to tame on its own, like Tannat.

In Australia, Petit Verdot has been coming into its own. In fact, Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot seems to sell better than its siblings in the range, that includes better known Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir. De Bortoli has consistently scored well with this Petit Verdot, pleasing the palates of all the world's gurus, from Food & Wine, to the Wine Advocate, to the Wine Spectator.

Expect lots of red ripe fruit, almost candy-like, to evolve out of your wine glass past your nose. I wouldn't disagree there is some essence of oregano here, although it's certainly not overwhelming. There isn't a lot of oak influence showing through, a fact that may just mean the integration job was masterfully executed. Sprinkle in a hint of tobacco, and that's it. The tannins are juicy but not harsh. Here again is a schizophrenic wine that can play well in a range of situations.

Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

No wonder these varieties find their way into fine Bordeaux blends and California "Meritage" blends. It's perhaps not that they impart some special, polarizing essence that must be kept in small amounts to be palatable. Quite to the contrary, it seems these are the moderating influences that bring an extreme Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot to the center.

Want to have even more fun? Mix these 2 lovely wines together!

What's Your Style? Carmel Road Monterey Chardonnay 2006 and NO Unoaked Monterey Chardonnay 2007

A lot of very good and not very expensive Chardonnay originates in Monterey County. But what influences a bottle of Chardonnay more? Is it the the place where it is grown or the way it is made? I have to say both. Unlike in Burgundy, where the location dictates style, in Monterey there is total freedom to express the personality of the grape after it is picked, through its handling in the winery. Lots of oak, little oak, or no oak; secondary malolactic fermentation or not; it's up to the producer and wine maker to decide.

In Burgundy, if your vineyard is in Mersault, you are going to make a rich and oaky wine. If your vines are further south in Pouilly-Fuisse, you are going to make a Chardonnay with little or no oak at all. As a consumer, you know what to expect in terms of style based on where the wine is from. All you need to do is navigate the vintage charts and producers to make a selection that matches your tastes, mood and food.

In Monterey, you will need to taste a lot and decide for yourself which label is your style. Which label suits your mood? Which label will you open this evening? What if you're having a glass before dinner? How about with dinner? The good news is, I haven't tasted any fresh, well-made Chardonnay from Monterey I didn't like. The weather is cool there, the hang time for the grapes is long, and the soil is lean, well-drained and minerally.

Here are two Monterey Chardonnays that have both significant differences and similarities. I guess the story could be stated as thus: You can twist the grapes every which way, you can take the grapes out of Monterey, but you can't take Monterey out of the grapes.

Carmel Road Monterey Chardonnay 2006

Carmel Road Winery is now part of Jackson Wine Estates, best known for Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay. Carmel Road is managed under a Brand "umbrella" that includes high-end labels Hartford Family and Freemark Abbey.

Carmel Road Monterey Chardonnay saw just over 6 months in oak barrels, 3/4 French, a minor portion new barrels. Starting out with high quality concentrated fruit, this is enough oak influence to make for a richer style Chardonnay. I would say this one is just a bit richer than middle-of-the road, without going off the rails. You could say it's efficient luxury. If this is your house wine, you might drive a metallic pearl Lexus. Alternatively, you might drink it when you're celebrating, but not showing off.

Expect a rich lemon-gold brilliance in the glass, and aromas of pear, lemon drops, vanilla plus a whiff of clove spice. There is a creaminess on the tongue. The flavor is moderately complex, noticeably oak influenced, with spicy tree fruit and tart citrus notes that balance out nicely in a smooth finish.

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

NO Unoaked Monterey Chardonnay 2007

This is the first vintage for NO Chardonnay. NO Vineyards and Winery has been making Lake County Sauvignon Blanc, devoid of oak or malolactic fermentation, since 2003. With the growing trend in unoaked Chardonnay, it's no surprise they would line-extend to leverage their brand name, which might just as well be "Buck Naked", "Butt Naked", or "In the Buff".

As expected, NO Monterey Chardonnay saw no oak, and no secondary malolactic fermentation. The screw cap nails this concept home, as not even the natural influence of a cork is allowed to manipulate the Monterey fruit. This is as close to a pure sample off the stainless steel tank as you can get.

NO is bright pale straw, with a slight greenish tint in the glass, noticeable lighter than the Carmel Road. The aromas and flavors are lean, dominated by Granny Smith apple and lemon. On the tongue, this Chardonnay is lean, tart and focused, with grassy, lemon-lime and green apple flavors. This is a Chardonnay for Sauvignon Blanc lovers, you might even say "shrill" for a Chardonnay. If this is your house wine, you might drive a hybrid vehicle, or maybe you just feel like breathing some clean air.

Price: $11 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Being that both of these Chardonnays originate in Monterey County, don't expect their differences to outweigh their similarities. I expected them to be more different, but was surprised they both share a fruit forward nature, beautiful Chardonnay character, plus great minerality and acidity. The nice thing about the comparison is the NO (unoaked) Chardonnay costs a few dollars less than the Carmel Road. This is as it should be. After all, when you're avoiding the high price of oak barrels, you should pass along the savings to the consumer. All too often that isn't the case.

3 Rings 2006 Barossa Valley Shiraz

If you're wondering if everybody here at Wine Waves has a fetish for Grateful Palate imported wines, wonder no more. We do, and so should you. They find talented people (mostly in Australia) making excellent wines at reasonable prices and then they put them on a plane or boat (or dirigible, the method of transport isn't clear) and bring them to your neck of the woods (if you're lucky).

That's the long way of saying I'm reviewing another Grateful Palate imported wine - this week the 2006 Barossa Valley from 3 Rings. Having had many positive experiences with  Grateful Palate imported wine, I was well prepared to enjoy 3 Rings Shiraz.

But I didn't.

There are several reasons, primarily the odd, funky finish. I let it air for a while and after 2-3 hours the dark plummy fruit came out more but really didn't sell me either. To be completely honest I won't buy another bottle of 3 Rings. There are better Shiraz out there - R Wines Boarding Pass for example, is $3 more expensive but far more interesting and drinkable. I will say that 3 Rings avoids most all the dirty dishwater flavors of other inexpensive Shiraz, and at $15 it's not a bad glass of wine, but there are so many better it's hard to justify buying or drinking.

Price: $15 (Costco - Out West). Closure: Screw top. Alcohol content: 15.0%.

California Field Blends: Ten Mile Red 2005, Laurel Glen Lodi REDS 2006, Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot 46

In California, before prohibition, wine growers planted their vineyards with mixed varieties, like quilt work. When it came time to harvest, they usually picked them all at the same time, even if all the grapes didn't have the same level of ripeness. And they co-fermented the crush, everything in the vat together. It was easier, and some people continue to say better, to get a blend to come together and reach a more seamless accord.

These "field blends" were Zinfandel dominated, because that was the star grape of the era in California. Other varieties typically found in these blends included Carignane, Petite Sirah (aka Durif), Alicante Bouschet, Peloursin, Syrah, and Barbera. There remain old vineyards, usually with head pruned vines, dotted around California, from Napa and Sonoma to Lodi. Once thought of as Zinfandel plantings, DNA testing has revealed many old Zinfandel vineyards include a supporting cast of other varieties. Each wine farmer planted their own proprietary combination, to produce a more harmonious and rounded end product in the barrel and bottle.

Alicante Bouschet was popular during prohibition because growers believed its thick skin made it a superior grape for transporting by rail to auction rooms in the east.

As an interesting side note, we can thank the White Zinfandel craze that began in the 1970's for preventing many old field blend vineyards from being ripped out in favor of the burgeoning Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay trade.

Now that we can determine what's in a vineyard, co-fermentation is not all that common. Most wines, even those that mimic old fashioned field blends, are picked and fermented in separate lots, then blended just before bottling. That gives the wine maker more degrees of freedom, leaves less up to chance, and it's just the modern way.

Just like Bordeaux blends have stood the test of time, so have these truly American Zinfandel blends. These blends also offer real bang for the buck, giving authentic personality to a casual everyday red wine. These are certainly amazing "spaghetti wines", and also do great justice to a seriously good pizza, anything mesquite grilled, or anything with a southwestern slant to it. And of course, they stand alone equally well.

Let's take a look at three that go beyond making the grade. All 3 of these blends share the same deep purple ruby color, almost opaque. They aren't drastically different in terms of aromas or flavors, either. They're all recommended.

Nine North Wine Co. Ten Mile Red 2005

Nine North Wine Company gives the 2004 vintage composition as 64% Petite Sirah, 18% Zinfandel, 8% Barbera, 8% Malbec and 2% Carignane.

This is the plummiest of the three, with lots of fresh cherry in the nose also. The undertones are spicy, in the direction of a Moroccan spice blend. The fruit is plummy and red on the tongue. You get that dusty structure, and a sense of licorice as the wine finishes.

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Laurel Glen Lodi REDS 2006
Laurel Glen says Reds is comprised of 60% 70-year-old Zinfandel, 30% 116-year-old Carignane and the balance Petite Sirah.

Reds displays a bright raspberry nose from the get-go. You also get some roasted undertones akin to chocolate or mocha, and a hint of ground pepper. The fruit is lush, with more cocoa and pepper evolving on your tongue. The nice dusty (but not overwhelming) structure asserts itself as the wine finishes.

Price: $10 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot 46
Marietta doesn't give out its proprietary blend. Like one's age, sometimes it's best to keep it a secret. They do say the blend is primarily comprised of Zinfandel, with Petite Sirah and Carignane and smaller amounts of Cabernet and Syrah and "various other Italian varietals" rounding out the blend. Is this the most authentic "field blend" of the three?

Old Vine Red is the meatier, that is to say smokier, of the three. It's not overwhelming in the smoke department by any means, but there's more there. There is plenty of fruit in the nose and on the tongue, definitely a Zinfandel-like fusion of raspberry and dark cherry. The flavors are well integrated and it's the "jammiest" of the three. This is the fullest bodied of the 3 wines, with very smooth dusty tannins, and finishing with a touch of vanilla.

Price: $13 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

If I had to rank the 3 wines, it would have to be put in context. None is a clear winner without a frame of reference. They're all recommended. But the Ten Mile Red would be my favorite with spicy food, along the lines of something with Moroccan spice, a curry, or cumin. Reds is my value priced favorite, if I'm on a tight budget, and it's my favorite to drink by itself  or with a piece of dark chocolate or similar dessert. Old Vine Red would be my hands down favorite for spaghetti, pizza, burgers, or most casual cuisine. No wonder every lot of Old Vine Red has been completely allocated since 1978.

If you're thinking about testing these wines with some spaghetti, here's a sauce that's also recommended. Dave's Gourmet Red Heirloom spaghetti sauce is worth looking for. You can buy it online, or discover it as I did, at Marshall's off-price department store. Our heirloom tomatoes aren't ripe yet, so this sauce caught my eye. I like any jar variety spaghetti sauce whose first ingredient is "tomatoes", not "tomato puree". I also like to see a low sugar content (4 grams per serving here), and I like the fat to be olive oil (extra virgin here). You might like it meatless, but we added lean and naturally raised ground beef and some sauteed onions and garlic (to season the meat). Serve it over thin whole wheat spaghetti.

Yard Dog Proprietary White Blend 2006 and One Fierce Shrimp Quesadilla

Being a health and fitness nut is not incompatible with a love for eating. Summer is the season for fresh produce, so this evening I went out and picked some tomatoes, peppers and herbs. My plan: to do some simple culinary blending that will illustrate the beauty of Yard Dog White 2006, a creative blend that's selling very well here in Nashville.

The garden is just starting to provide a yield. But I was able to pick a bunch of sweet banana peppers, and a "Holy Mole" pepper, as well as several small heirloom tomatoes, called Lime Green Salad and Black Cherry. I also gathered up a bunch of onion chives, flat leaf parsley, and sweet basil. Now, it's time to make a Shrimp Quesadilla.

I google shrimp quesadilla and find a number of similar approaches. Now I'm ready to improvise. Nobody mentioned garden fresh peppers, but I'm going to incorporate them. To make one fierce shrimp quesadilla, here's what I put together:

Shrimp: 1/2 pound thawed, USA wild caught, 30 per pound, de-veined. I look for USA wild caught, because they are not on the Monterey Bay Aquarium's list of seafood to "Avoid", unlike imported farm raised and wild caught shrimp, which are. These shrimp, I marinate 20 minutes in Stirrings Margarita Mix, plus copious chopped chives and parsley, as well as a shake or two of Mrs. Dash Garlic and Old Bay seasoning. I set these aside in the refrigerator.

I chop:

• 1/4 to 1/2 sweet Vidalia onion, depending on size
• 1/2 good sized fresh "Holy Mole" pepper, seeds and membranes removed
• 1 sweet banana pepper, seeds removed
• 1/5 sweet red pepper, seeds removed
• These peppers and onions are sweated in olive oil for 5-10 minutes on low-medium heat.

Meanwhile, I begin heating and browning 2 whole wheat soft tortillas.

Once the onions and peppers are transparent, I add the shrimp and marinade and reduce the mixture as the shrimp poach. This only takes 5 or 6 minutes. Now, it's assembly time.

Leave one browning tortilla in its non-stick pan, and put a little handful of "Mexican Cheese" (I used 2% milk variety) on the bottom tortilla. Now add half the peppers and onions. Next add all the shrimp (except the ones you ate already). Add the other half of the peppers and onions. Add another small handful of "Mexican Cheese". Finally, add the top tortilla. The skillet is on medium heat. Once the whole quesadilla has melted together, turn it and brown it on the other side.

Serve with a side of chopped heirloom salad tomatoes (I used the Lime Green and Black Cherry ones from the garden), mixed with fresh sweet basil. You might also serve with some rice, seasoned how you like. Finally, drizzle the quesadilla with a sour cream concoction that is thinned out with the Stirrings Margarita Mix that I mentioned earlier. Lastly, top with chopped flat leaf parsley and onion chives.

Yard Dog proprietary white blend is a summer wine, ideal for creative fusion dishes, because it's a perfect blend of white wine flavors and textures. A little of this and a little of that comes together resulting in a very successful bottle of wine that will disappear quickly as it keeps you guessing what all is in it.

What's in it is Chardonnay (55%), Sauvignon Blanc (15%), Riesling (15%), Semillon (10%) and Viognier (5%). The color is bright lemon straw. It's not sweet! It's crisp and dry, yet refreshing. On the nose you will pick up a citrus medley, plus some cold blossoms and a slightly peachy keen-ness. On the tongue the citrus dominates, playing out as lemon, lime and grapefruit, plus you might get some nectarine and green apple. The whole thing stays together, creating a flavor that's charismatic. And it's sure to be the perfect thing to wash down a shrimp quesadilla, or even potato salad on the way to a hot dog off the grill.

Red Head Wine Studios, out of the McLaren Vale area in Australia, did a great job with keeping the price down on this fun white. Their Yard Dog proprietary red blend is equally impressive. 5,500 cases of the 2006 white blend were produced. Both of these wines are selling extremely well in Nashville this year.

Price: $9 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 13.7%.

Yard Dog is imported by Vine Street Imports out of Philadelphia. Winewaves has reviewed several of their wines recently. We are in no way affiliated with Vine Street. They are obviously on a hot streak right now, which is why we have featured several of their wines.