winewaves

Birds of a Feather: Light Sophisticated French Values

Like a good rain falling after a long drought, that's the way these two unoaked crisp French white wine values refresh your palate after a long run of big bold reds. Both of these wines are proof positive that you don't have to spend a lot for a superb glass of French wine.

First, Kysela has introduced La Petite Frog, a 2006 vintage Picpoul de Pinet from Coteaux Du Languedoc, an impressive example of how the bag-in-box format continues to get more interesting and go further upmarket here in the states.

Josh Wesson, a regular guest on The Splendid Table radio program, recently outed Picpoul de Pinet as one of France's finest values in a white wine. In the box it's an even better value and and what better way to keep a sensational house white wine available on tap.

Style: Crisp, light (in alcohol), citrusy, sophisticated. Appearance: Pale yellow straw with a greenish tint. Aromas: Grapefruit and tropical notes. The tart lime flavor is dry, refreshing, clean and does not overwhelm your palate. Pair it with a herb roasted bird or hors d'oeuvres or anything in between.
Outstanding value: $28 (3 Liter bag-in-box). Alcohol content: 12.5%.

Next, Kermit Lynch brings us Kuentz Bas Alsace Blanc 2005. Here's the perfect occasional counterpoint to the big high-alcohol fruit bombs we love.

In Alsace, Kuentz-Bas blends 60% Sylvaner, 15% Muscat, 15% Auxerrois and 10% Chasselas to make an economical and harmonious sip of the region. With an alcohol content of a mere 12.5%, a real cork and a modest $13 price this is a must. Great with fresh steamed mussels, expect aromas and flavors of quince, tart lime, citrus rind and almost salty minerality. Style: Crisp, light (in alcohol), minerally, sophisticated.

You can't go wrong with either of these picks. Because the "Frog" is in the bag-in-box format, it's a no-brainer and now occupies a position in my fridge until something better makes its way into a box with a tap.

Chateau De Campuget Rhone Viognier 2006

Love doesn't come to mind with every glass of wine, but this one's a real find. If you're looking for a special white for a special occasion this season, say a wedding, here it is.

Chateau Campuget's winemaker Delphine Crouzet creates a classic 100% Viognier out of southern Rhone fruit. Winewaves recently reviewed Campuget's Nîmes Tradition Blanc 2005, an expressive Roussanne dominated white blend.

Excellent value ($18). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13%.

Style: Elegant tropical fruit and flowers.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Light straw. Aromas: A peach and pear dominated fresh fruit punch combined with honeysuckle in bloom. The mouthfeel is juicy and round yet tart and round. The lime citrus comes through the fruit punch and joins with a gravelly minerality as the finish reaches for the stars.

Comment: Celebrate the season with a flawless Viognier for under $20.

Domaine Meyer-Fonne Gentil D'Alsace 2005

Near the border of France and Germany (near Switzerland), Alsace is the origin of the most exotic white wine variety in the world, Gewürztraminer. Spicy pungent and dry, it is not to be confused with American Gewürztraminer which is often sweet and rarely as perfumed. A fine Alsatian Gewürztraminer can be pricey and overpowering for an everyday appetizer, but you can get a sense of the region with a well made blend from the area like this one.

François & Félix Meyer farm and make a full line of boutique wines from their estate of less than 30 acres near Katzenthal. Gentil D'Alsace is their entry level cuveé but the quality is excellent and the wine charismatic. The blend is centered on Muscat and Pinot Blanc with Riesling and Gewürztraminer providing its signature.

Excellent value ($14). Closure: real cork. Alcohol content: 12%.

Style: Light, fruity, some spice, somewhat exotic, crisp.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Light golden straw. Aromas: Apple, apricot, ginger and clove. Light to medium bodied for a white wine, and showing just a slight ray of honeyed sweetness, the slightly spicy fruit tart flavors lean exotic and finish with a nice question mark which asks: what is this?

Comment: It's like getting bumped up to first class. Enjoy it with a good view and give a nice hand to the Meyers and importer Kermit Lynch.

Armand Roux Verdillac Sauvignon Blanc 2005

This simply elegant and really affordable Bordeaux Blanc sports a change to its label with the 2005 vintage, namely the addition of the words "Sauvignon Blanc". All White Bordeaux is composed of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon so this addition just clarifies the matter. Verdillac is typically 70+% Sauvignon Blanc.

Excellent value ($10). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 11.5%.

Style: Light, elegant, minerally, crisp.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Pale golden straw. Aromas: Elegant melon, lemon and wafts of cold blossoms and green herbs. Light-bodied and softly textured, showing just a slight touch of sweetness on the palate, the lemon-lime, green apple and mineral flavors finish crisp, tart and refreshing.

Comment: Pair it with salade de poulet (chicken salad).

Château Campuget Nîmes Tradition Blanc 2005

If you haven't tasted Roussanne, here is an affordable and beautiful introduction made by a house which is considered a specialist in hearty reds. The French tradition is well captured in this everyday cuvée.

At the point where the Languedoc meets the Rhone, Costières de Nîmes is a wine growing area known for its "gress" soil which is composed of round pebbles deposited by the Rhône River. There is ample sun and little rain in this southernmost Rhône outpost 10 miles south of Nimes, just north and west of Arles.

Château de Campuget Winemaker Delphine Crouzet reports Tradition Blanc is a blend of 60% Roussanne, 30% Grenache Blanc and 10% Marsanne. Vinification is all stainless steel.

Excellent value ($14). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13%.

Style: Elegant, complex, flowery, round, citrusy, vibrant, clean.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Light golden straw. Aromas: Cold blossoms, green apple, white peach and hints of oregano. Medium bodied, tangy and nicely rounded off, the mandarin orage, grapefruit and lime flavors are persistent in the clean finish.

Comment: Here's one of the great white wine values from France that offers volumes of expression and complexity for the price. A find!

Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby and Company.

Thierry and Guy Fat Bastard Chardonnay 2005

When you're knocking around in your jeans, and you could toy with a Chardonnay from Nimes, for about ten bucks this wine doesn't suck, you might even say it screams; "What a deal".

For a lot of folks their first exposure to Fat Bastard is being on the giving or receiving end of a "white elephant" gift.  But when tasted, most are surprised to find the wine is mighty fine.  Thierry Boudinaud is Head Winemaker, and Guy Anderson is the "whack to the side of the head".  Together they invented the product and concept which has literally defined casual French wine, a category which would have seemed an oxymoron before the Fat Bastard was born some 10 years ago.

Legend has it that upon tasting a certain lot of 100% Chardonnay, sourced from the Languedoc-Roussillon region north of Nimes, barrel aged 4 months on the lees (yeast bodies), there was an epiphany.  "Thierry exclaimed now zat iz what you call eh phet bast-ard. Guy laughed with a belly laugh you could clearly hear in the neighboring town." They never looked back.

Color: Light lemon gold.  Aromas: Pear, starfruit, cold blossoms and hints of oak spice.  Light-bodied and rounded off a bit, the tart apple, oily citrus and lightly nutty spicy flavors finish crisp dry and refreshing.

Excellent value ($9). Closure: Composite "Neocork". Alcohol content: 13.5%

Peter Click must be credited for recognizing the birth of a phenomenon, and bringing the Fat Bastard to droves of awaiting Americans.

Winewaves reviewed the 2004 vintage of Fat Bastard Chardonnay.

Château de la Ragotière Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine Sur Lie Black Label 2005

The three Couillaud brothers, proprietors of Château de la Ragotière, continue to produce one of France's best white wine values, one which captures tradition and elegance and also whets the appetite for what's next.

Ragotière Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine 2005 was bottled directly off the lees (yeast bodies), without racking, allowing trace amounts of carbon dioxide to remain.  Cases produced: 2000.

Tasting Notes: Color: Light lemon gold.  Aromas: Lime, meyer lemon, plus background notes of spearmint and cold blossoms.  Light-bodied, just barely rounded off at this point, and somewhat chalky minerally approaching salty, the orange peel and lime flavors kick in as the wine finishes clean and dry.

Excellent value ($12).  Closure: Real cork.  Alcohol content: 12%.

Ragotière's 60+ acres of muscadet vineyards are located near where the Sèvre and Maine rivers converge into the Loire, before flowing to the nearby sea.  The importer is Vineyard Brands.

Winewaves reviewed the 2004 vintage of Château de la Ragotière Muscadet.

Château de la Ragotière Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine Sur Lie Black Label 2004

Muscadet may not be on your wine radar, yet. But this Loire Valley appellation is growing in popularity due to its unique qualities and excellent value.

Ragotière's 60+ acres of muscadet vineyards are located near where the Sèvre and Maine rivers converge into the Loire, before flowing to the nearby sea.

Owned by the three Couillaud brothers, Ragotière Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine 2004 was bottled directly off the lees (yeast bodies), without racking, allowing trace amounts of carbon dioxide to remain. This black label bottling is the top quality of the three Ragotière muscadets. Tasting Notes. Color: Pale straw with a greenish tint. Aromas: Citrus and minerals. On the tongue, this wine is light and tart, with lime and green herbal flavors that come across a bit salty, with a hint of capers present. The finish is palate cleansing and refreshing. Closure: Real cork. Excellent value ($11). Food pairing: Traditionally shellfish.

My current favorite pairing is with lightly salted Kettle potato chips.

Imported by Vineyard Brands of Birmingham, Alabama.

Earl Delaille Domaine Salvard Cheverny White 2003

Domaine du Salvard Cheverny is produced from vines grown by the Delaille family, which has cultivated their 37 acre parcel since about 1930.  Location-wise, Cheverny in the east portion of Touraine near the village of Blois. This area is about 150 miles SSW of Paris, just south of the Loire River*.

This wine consists of primarily Sauvignon Blanc, plus a small amount of Chardonnay blended in. Kermit Lynch imports to the USA. 89.5 points. Color: Pale straw with a greenish tint. Aromas: Celeriac, starfruit, grapefruit, honeydew and grass. The mouthfeel is tart, crisp, and a bit peppery. Peppery grapefruit, green pea, and tart apple flavors, plus citrusy tartness and hints of mineral, resolve quickly in a palate cleansing bone dry finish. Closure: Real cork. Retail: $14. Value: Very nice.

*Pouilly-Fume, well known for Sauvignon Blanc, is east-southeast of Cheverny.

Fat Bastard Vin de Pays D'oc Chardonnay 2004

Fat Bastard Chardonnay gets laughs, and is often purchased as a bit of a joke. In truth, it is a collaboration between winemaker Thierry Boudinaud and Londoner Guy Anderson, who are serious about quality and value. Fat Bastard was a term Thierry applied to the intial prototype, a partially-barrel-fermented Sur Lie Chardonnay (sans Malolactic), as a complement to it, due to its round texture.

The grapes are sourced from the Languedoc-Roussillon, with a majority from the Minervois district, where stony soil is the norm.  Click Wine Group imports. 88 points.  Color: Pale lemon-gold. Aromas: Restrained spiced peach, lemon and hints of almonds and toasty oak. The mouthfeel is light-bodied, rounded off, with nice acidity and a bit of mid-palate sweetness. Peach, almond, amaretto and lemon flavors fade out nicely into a clean, crisp, citrusy finish. Closure: Composite plastic "cork". Retail: $9. Value: Excellent.