winewaves

Montoya Monterey Pinot Noir 2005

Not too light, not too heavy, that sums up the body of this very affordable Pinot Noir. The flavor profile is like breakfast in a wine glass. First, there is a waft of smoked ham, and that gives way quickly to strawberries, dried cherries, red currant preserves and sweet spice. If you're taken to eating breakfast for dinner, here's your wine. Or, this is an ideal wine to quaff right by itself, any time of day.

Montoya reports the grapes come from older vines from the 1960's located in southern Monterey County. French and American oak barrels, new and used, added to the smoke and spice notes.

I liked this Pinot just as much the second day after it was opened. That's always a good feature in any affordable red wine.

Price (Nashville): $13. Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Boxhead Shiraz Cabernet 2006

Whenever ten bucks can get this much bang, I'll take it. Better yet, nine-ninety-nine. Some people are dialing up the creativity, thinking out of the box, and finding ways to counterpoise vinflation. Boxhead begs the question, "How can they grow, vinify, bottle, cap, label, box, ship halfway across the world, warehouse, market, distribute, stock, pay the taxes, keep the lights on, ring up the cash register, and bag up a wine this good for 1000 U.S. pennies?

Seriously good, but not as serious as some of the brooding, tarry, more concentrated Australian Shiraz labels out there, Boxhead is no hopping marsupial. The alchemy is based on "a little of this, a little of that", and knowing which buttons to push. According to Vine Street Imports' web site, Clos Otto blended three separate lots, each made by different wine makers, each receiving different treatments. This is the kind of experiment I'm known to engage in at home. Blending can be fun, but hey, once upon a time I practiced as a Chemical Engineer! According to Vine Street, "The Langhorne Creek Cabernet spent many months in French oak. The Barossa Shiraz and Cabernet also spent time in old French oak barrels. The Western Victorian Shiraz was mostly unoaked insuring that the final blend remained vibrant." The blend is 72% Shiraz, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon.

There are more opaque, black Shiraz's out there, but I often need to blend those down with a lighter Grenache anyway. There is some blackberry character in Boxhead, as well as more red currant and blueberry tendencies. You get a bit of vanilla in the nose as well, owing to the French oak, and cocoa powder tannins. The only complaint anyone might come up with is that Boxhead is too likeable, therefore it must be up to no good. But then, why sabotage a moment of pleasure with such negative thinking?

While it's good by itself, Boxhead goes great with The Neely's Barbecue Turkey Meatloaf, as seen on the Food Network. On this Wednesday night, the Neely's recipe got a twist that made the pairing with Boxhead even better. Mix lean grass-fed organic ground beef with the specified ground turkey (50/50), then crack a tablespoon of black peppercorns very coarsely and throw them in with the peppers and onions as you saute them. Think "The Neely's Barbecue Meatloaf Au Poivre".

Price: $10 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Wingnut Amador County Zinfandel 2005

Smart money is looking to Amador County for Zinfandel. East of Sacramento and seemingly away from it all, this unpretentious wine country remains pleasantly off the radar. Here you can drive through golden grassy pastures, pass the past, and find some great Zin off the beaten path.

My first experiences with Zin from Amador were Montevina and Renwood. But now the really big wine marketers are making deals with Amador growers. Now the Three Thieves unit of Trinchero (Sutter Home) brings us Wingnut.

Loaded with fruit and not as over-the-top hot as many Zins these days, this is an easy drinker for anything grilled, especially burgers. Wingnut has that juicy spicy DNA that makes it perfect for Saturday night - or any night that we wish was Saturday. There is a definitive cherry character to it, reverberating between cherry cola and dried cherries. I never get tired of that in my casual quaffs, especially zins. More often that not, I'm not looking for a wine that's over my head, too complicated, or downright odd. This one is easy to get to know, without being monolithic or moronic. The fruit dominates, but it's rounded out by nice spice and some dusty tannins, and then it doesn't kick you in the gentleman's department.

As you contemplate your next burger, you can't go wrong pairing it with this Amador Zin.

Price (Nashville): $14. Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

C. J. Pask Roy's Hill Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2006

It seems like wine prices are going up every day, and really good New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is getting hard to find for under $15. A lot of the "go-to" labels of the last few years are pushing $20. Roy's Hill is a recent arrival to Nashville, and its $14 price got my attention.

What's inside the bottle is just as good as the $20 stuff. Everything about it is light, from the bright pale appearance in the glass to the modest 12.5% alcohol content. It's that time of the year when even dyed-in-the-wool red wine drinkers may be seen partaking of the occasional glass of white. This is an eye, nose and palate primer, the ideal starter for what's next. Better yet, it doesn't stain your teeth and negate all that trouble you're going through whitening them.

As far as its characteristics, I get a greenish tint in the flavors and aromas, just like in the pale color. You might identify it as limes accompanying the gooseberry flavors and grassy aromas. This is a wine that makes your mouth water, some would say it is "puckery". It makes you go wow! like a good New Zealand wild white should.

Roy's Hill is C. J. Pask Winery's everyday range of wines.

Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 12.5%.

Pierre Boniface Apremont Vin de Savoie 2007

As luck usually has it, I frequently show up just as a "Research and Development" session is just underway at Frugal MacDoogal's. A wine like this one might not otherwise cross my palate. Noteworthy as it may be, one of Dan Kravitz' "Hand Picked Selections", who knows if I would take a chance on an unknown commodity such as this. But take it from me, and lots of others, if you see it, pick it up. You will value the experience.

The grape is Jacquère, and Vin de Savoie is located in the Foothills of the Alps. My first reaction was "Perrier with a REAL twist". Pale greenish straw and lively around the edges, this is a very tactile sip, but one that treads lightly on your senses. The aromas are citrusy, maybe a bit herbal, even floral, and reminiscent of a mountain stream. Yes you CAN taste minerals in wine. In this one you may even find the fountain of youth.

Price (Nashville): $16. Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 11.5%.

Seasons Change: Winewaves Is Over (for now)

Regular readers of Winewaves have noticed the slowing pace of new pieces in 2007. For the first 2 years I tried to keep a daily pace of providing new pictures and reviews here. Winewaves began in February of 2005, but it's over. At least for now.

Like many other well-intentioned bloggers, I simply cannot afford to provide the quality of content that I would like to. Other paying work occupies my time. The opportunity cost of the effort I've invested in Winewaves has been great and the benefits have been scarce. My balance sheet unfortunately fits on a Post-It note. Being that I don't have deep pockets, something had to give.

Thank you to those who tuned in, found themselves checking out Winewaves, and especially to those who have sent me supportive e-mails over the past 3 years.

And go figure. No other wine created the stir that Bitch Barossa Grenache has over the last 3 years. For all those who are looking for it, I DON'T KNOW where you can find it. Which brings to my mind a pet peeve. When there is an ocean of Grenache (or at least red wine) in Australia, and when so many people are looking for "Bitch" in America, and when the people who want it are not expecting the highest standard of gustatory excellence, why don't they bottle more of it? What's wrong with giving the people what they want?

Of all the lessons learned from Winewaves, the foremost one is that I wish I could be selling wine. That's because most people who have come here thought that was the point of the site. It's so frustrating that Tennessee state laws prevent a would-be entrepreneur like myself to add value to a marketplace. Most people don't see the value of great wine label pictures, except as a way of merchandising, which I am prohibited from doing. At least for now.

Lastly, if anyone has any ideas as to how to revive Winewaves, I'm all ears.

The Hunt for October Red

Click for a larger picture of these bottles.

The hunt for October red has turned up a whole lot of alternatives. Here are four to get the week off on the right track. I love them all and have repeated them in search of my favorite. I can't say which is best because they're all top notch, each perfect for the season, and each priced at about $15 or under per bottle. Two are from Spain, continuing on my October theme; one is French and one from Washington State. Perhaps the balance of the month will turn up something from California.

Eric Soloman's European Cellars is an importer many people trust. It's like a seal of approval for any Spanish wine in the eyes of many value conscious Americans. Eric brings us Capçanes Mas Donís Montsant Red 2004 ($15) and Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Tempranillo Roble 2005 ($13). Both are deep purple in the glass, but the Ercavio has more of an unfiltered appearance, showing some haziness under a halogen beam.

Mas Donís 2004 is mostly old-vine Grenache (80% Grenache with 20% Syrah) and has a perfumed black cherry nose with teaberry and hints of pencil lead. The body is medium, the flavor's tart and the mouth feel is moderately tannic. The cherry fruit along with some vanilla flavors come together nicely in the dusty dry finish. The only thing I don't like is the plastic cork. Why must anyone use that blasted plastic cork? Alcohol content: 14%.

Ercavio Tempranillo 2005 spent 5 months in French American oak and has a lovely aroma of black raspberry, loganberry and apple pie spice, plus the scent of a tobacco shop. Lush and fruit forward, this is what I would describe as a masculine comfort wine, and it would pair perfectly with a cheeseburger. The closure is a Nomacork*. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Jean-Philippe Bourgeois was the General Manager for Eric Solomon for 6 years, and now he is bringing French values to the American market. Château Capion 1C Rouge 2005 (Vin de Pays de l'Hérault, $13) is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and was barrel aged for 14 months. That sounds like a recipe for a great Bordeaux but this gem of a red comes from further south. Still you get the deep purple color and aromas of black currants, dark berries and hints of vanilla. The rich blackberry cobbler flavors envelop the mouth in a far reaching luscious dry finish.

The Magnificent Wine Company is the mass-production wing of K Vintners of Walla Walla, Washington. KV is the project of Charles Smith who brings us such magnificent wines as "The Creator". You might walk right past House Wine 2005 ($11) due to the rather "in your face" and non-standard graphics on the label. You might mistake it for a generic red blend but it's anything but. The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 11% Syrah, 3% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Here's another ideal Bordeaux blend, and the latitiude is virtually the same as Bordeaux. The resulting aromas and flavors are much better than the average house wine, with dark berry flavors and aromas, resolving nicely in to a lush dry finish that echoes the virtues of barrel aging. The closure is a real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

*The Nomacork is a composite resin artificial cork that is similar to the Neocork, but the Nomacork brand is much more popular in terms of units sold.

Pannotia Vineyards La Tierra De Castilla Garnacha 2006

Pannotia Vineyards is a virtual winery whose name was chosen to signify bringing together the wine world ("all the world is a single continent" = Pannotia). The founders describe Pannotia as "a new concept in wine, offering American wine lovers a portfolio of emblematic wines from around the world". Begun in the Spring of 2006, Pannotia managed to sell 10,000 cases in year 1 and their goal is 20,000 this year. They have put together a nice portfolio of what I would call "alternative wines", including Spanish Grenache, Argentine Malbec, Torrontes, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mendocino Zinfandel.

Pannotia brought on board Master Sommelier and Master of Wine Doug Frost as their consultant. I say he's a good choice. After all, who better to help break through the vast wine landscape than probably the only person with his level of wine expertise who also has a vast collection of punk rock and weird music records. Pannotia obviously does not want their wines to be confused with "your father's Oldsmobile".

Pannotia's labels currently all feature paintings by Cedar Falls, Iowa artist Gary Kelley. Gary has been hard at it producing works and perfecting his vibrant style for 35 years. It was Kelley's artwork that first made me take notice of Pannotia's line. Kelley's works range in scale from wine labels to 80-foot murals. You may have seen his murals in Barnes & Noble or his illustrations in Rolling Stone magazine.

Pannotia Garnacha 2006 is sourced from "the limestone hills south of Madrid".

In the glass the color is vibrant, deep candy apple red with bright purple edges and translucent. Sour cherry and framboise fruitiness is surrounded by black pepper and nuanced with a little bit of ash. Youthful bones and a medium body carry the dried cherry and pepper flavors well.

Excellent value ($12). Closure: Plastic cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Yep, this is an emblematic Spanish Garnacha (Grenache).

Marqués de Griñón Dominio De Valdepusa Caliza 2004

My travels never take me across the pond, but if they did I would chart a course to Spain and stay a while, seeing as much as possible. Therefore lately when I haven't been on the road, I've been charting a course through lots of Spanish wines. There are wine values to be had from every geography but this must be Spanish wine season because they are very popular in my glass right now.

Marqués de Griñón's central Spain estate Dominio De Valdepusa was the first to be granted its own appellation in 2003, in recognition of its unique terroir. The label reflects the shape of this geographic place of origin, near Toledo and Madrid. The name Caliza translates to limestone in Spanish, the sub soil that is credited with contributing to the texture of this wine.

Carlos Falcó is the visionary behind the estate. Having studied at U.C.-Davis, he returned to his estate near the ancestral home of the Marqués de Griñón to put in place modern approaches to producing wine. He enlisted the help of heavyweight consultants Dr. Richard Smart in the vineyard and Michel Rolland in the winery and he tapped Julio López Mourelle to become his lead winemaker.

Caliza 2004 is 65% Syrah and 35% Graciano, an indigenous Spanish grape I've not knowingly tasted in wines previous to this one. The appearance is deep purple eggplant with an opaque unfiltered appearance. (Michel Rolland typically discourages filtering from being practiced at wineries he consults with.) The aromas range from fine bourbon, dried tart cherry and forest/earth. The tannins are substantial yet polished providing an encore finish.

Excellent value ($22). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

Sensational, and easier to get to than Madrid.

Dominio De Tares Baltos Bierzo Mencia 2005

Bordering Galacia in northwest Spain, Bierzo is considered by some to be the next Priorat, maybe better, thanks to the Mencía grape. An early to ripen grape, Mencía produces concentrated flavors without overly high in alcohol.

I really love Baltos because it packs a punch in terms of flavor and mouth feel without approaching let alone exceeding the 30 proof level and the price is well under $20 a bottle price point.

Dominio De Tares harvests Mencía grapes 25 to 40-year-old vines and ages the wine in new to 3 year-old French and American barrels for 4 to 7 months.

Baltos is deep purple and nearly opaque in the glass, and complex, dark and earthy as the aromas reach your nose. I picked up a hint of bacon from the oak aging to complement the cassis and cherry fruit and floral notes. Very solidly tannic, some would say overly so but I like the tactile nature. Concentrated and intense flavors lead to that feeling of chewing on walnuts in the finish. I had to look in the mirror to see if this wine stained my teeth.

Outstanding value ($16). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Forget about others' over-priced "reserve" wines, Baltos goes the extra mile to deliver. What more can you ask for?