winewaves

A Funny Thing Happened on the way to Buffalo

Last week on the way to Buffalo I had a connection at BWI (Baltimore Washington International) and there was a delay on my outbound flight. I got a glass of green tea and went walking around and discovered Vino Volo over in concourse A. I had forgotten about this location's opening but was glad to see them. As anyone who travels through BWI knows, delays are common.

Twice before I've stopped at the Vino Volo in the Sea-Tac airport and written about them for Winewaves.

Before I settled into this Vino Volo for a flight of wine I figured I should go back to B concourse and check with the Southwest Airlines gate person to make sure I would have time. The delay was now showing longer than before and it seems we were going to be put on another jet that wouldn't arrive until at least 8:00 PM. It was a quarter till 7 so I figured there was time. "Is there any chance the flight will go any earlier?" I asked, "Because I'd like to get a glass of wine over in A concourse". "Just be back here by a quarter till 8", I was advised.

When I got back over to Vino Volo, I ordered the California Kings flight for $10. The three wines included: Teatown Cellars Napa Merlot 2004, Vinum Cellars Slow Lane Cabernet 2004 and Melville Estate Verna's Syrah 2005. I took my time smelling all three as per usual and finally took a slow sip of the Merlot. How civilized! I thought and then the loudspeaker said, "This is a gate change announcement for Southwest flight 2651 to Buffalo. You are now leaving out of gate B7. Please report immediately to gate B7 for boarding now." It turns out several of the people at the wine bar were on the same flight. We paid up. Determined to finish my wine flight, I downed the wines like doing shots. We all hurried back over to concourse B just in time.

As for the wines, they were all good. And I guess I can't complain that our flight left much earlier than expected. However, I look forward to my next delay at BWI so I can spend more than a minute on a wine flight.

Powers Winery Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001

On my second trip to Vino Volo at the Seattle Tacoma Airport, my first flight was Columbia Valley Cabernets*, which included this find. Tasty it was, and my favorite of the three wines even though priced lowest. Unbeknownst to me, the wine was made from some very pedigreed grapes.

Bill Powers is on the short list of those with access to fruit from the Champoux Vineyard in Horse Heaven Hills, five miles from the Columbia River. That list includes the likes of Quilceda Creek, Andrew Will and Soos Creek, all of whom produce highly in demand and powerful Cabs from Champoux Vineyard grapes.

Powers has lived in Washington State most of his life, and started out as an orchard grower about 50 years ago. In the 1980s he switched to grapes and planted Badger Mountain Vineyard. He was joined by his son Greg in 1982 and then by partner Tim DeCook in 1983. Badger Mountain went organic in the late 1980s, and today that label produces all organic wines, some with no sulfites added, and are widely considered some of the healthiest wines on the market.

Bill and his son Greg also produce wines under the Powers Winery label which are not made from organic grapes. The Powers label gives them the opportunity to work with other growers and properties like Paul and Judy Champoux and their 35-year-old vineyard.

The 2001 vintage was Winemaker Greg Powers' first vintage for Champoux Vineyard Reserve Cabernet, and it was a great year to start out with. Powers did not hurry to get this Cab to market, aging the lots separately and only assembling final blend in 2005, then placing the cuvee into new French oak barrels for 9 months longer. Finally satisfied that it was ready, Powers bottled it in May 2006. Cases produced: 750.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby, semi-opaque. Aromas: Pungent sweet cherry, plum and cassis liqueur is joined by caramelized oak and spicy vanilla. The body is medium to full and nicely rounded off from the passing of time. Spicy and oaky dry on the tongue, the cherry pie, vanilla and hints of sweet basil echo nicely in the warm finish.

Excellent value: $23. Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Food pairing: Pan-seared New York Strip steak.

*The other two excellent wines in the Columbia Valley Cabernets flight were: Basel Cellars Old Vine Cabernet 2004 ($36/bottle) and Woodward Canyon Artist Series #12 Cabernet 2003 ($45/bottle). Before enjoying this flight, I warmed up with the Yakima Valley Whites flight, which included three beauties: Kestrel Old Vine Chardonnay 2005 ($27/bottle), Wilridge Elephant Mountain Vineyard Viognier 2005 ($21/bottle), and Kana Elerding Vineyard Rousanne 2003 ($23/bottle). All showed well but the Kestrel Chardonnay was my favorite.

Bergevin Lane Vineyards Calico Red 2004

Calico Red isn't an ordinary tame pussycat. She has a strong personality and will cozy up to her keepers but also keep the strays out of the yard.

Bergevin Lane is a relatively young story, an early indication of the influx of the hip Californian and beyond crowd who are following global warming north to the new hot spot in wine, Walla Walla. Talk about quirk, in Walla-squared you will find everything from a good old fashioned hotel to a real drug store on the square to boutique wineries and citified bistros. Walla Walla was abuzz in wheat 100 years ago and is again in grapes, and best of all, there is still some real un-retouched charm left to enjoy here.

I heard about Bergevin Lane at Backstage Bistro in DTW2 (Downtown Walla Walla) while noshing almost alone on some incredible cedar plank salmon this past last Tuesday night of January. The winery of two women is a "must" stop I was told. Unfortunately I was on a short leash and had to high-tail it out of town the next morning, but I spotted their Calico at Pete's in Seattle and their rare Cab Franc at Vino Volo in Sea-Tac Airport and brought them home. There will be a return trip to W2, soon if I have anything to do with it.

Proprietors Annette Bergevin & Amber Lane opened their doors in 2001, and moved into their modern industrial winery building in 2003. The Bergevin Lane partners have annealed relationships with growers in top vineyards in Walla Walla, Wahluke Slope, Horse Heaven Hills and other catbird seats in Columbia Valley. The counterpoint masculine touch is imparted by Annette's father Gary Bergevin, founding partner of Canoe Ridge, new winemaker Steffan Jorgensen and consultant Gordy Hill.

Bergevin Lane Calico Red 2004 reflects the personality of its lucky female proprietors and is credited to former Bergevin Lane winemaker Virginie Bourgue who recently left to marry Andrew Lodmell and make Lodmell Cellars wine. Calico is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel and Cab Franc. Only 2500 cases of this cuvee were produced, sourced from the likes of the Alder Ridge, Stone Tree, Les Collines and Lonesome Spring Ranch vineyards to name a few. Aging of lots included French, American and Neutral oak barrels.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep candy apple red with bright cherry edges, translucent. Aromas: Pungent mixed red to black berry and currant essences merge with espresso and masculine oak spice. Very young, sturdy and warming with substantial tannins, the brambly, peppery and ample syrupy fruit combine with cedary oak flavor in a kick of a finish.

Excellent value ($18). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.3%

Food pairing: Drink up with a great sandwich such as a Boar's Head black forest turkey and Vermont white cheddar on toasted whole wheat; but you could also go anywhere with this red blend.

Burgerville Exceeds Expectations

Having heard about Burgerville from Jane & Michael Stern's "Road Food" appearance on American Public Media's The Splendid Table hosted by Lynne Rossetto Kasper, a lunch stop was a must on my trip from San Francisco to Seattle via Portland and Walla Walla.  The location I chose was The Dalles Oregon, the last location heading east for 24,700 miles according to the billboard before the exit off I-84.

The story of Burgerville is fresh, local and sustainable "fast food", in other words, a myriad of burgers with everything, fish and chicken sandwiches, fries and shakes, hold the guilt. I didn't expect the food itself to be the best tasting food value of my 8-day trip, but it was. As an added bonus, I found the people to be incredibly nice and interested in my needs.

Burgerville is a relatively small chain of quick service restaurants located in northwestern Oregon and southwestern Washington, founded in 1961. Although they look like the typical fast food place from the outside, the emphasis is on quality from the inside out. You pay a bit more for their food and you may wait a minute or two longer for it, but in return you get a more thoughtful product which does taste better and makes you feel better too.

Ingredients are locally sourced wherever possible from area farmers and producers who follow sustainable and eco-friendly methods. All power is purchased from local wind production, and all employees (20+ hours per week for at least 6 months) are given access to affordable health insurance.

Beef is purchased from Oregon Country Beef, cheese from Tillamook, hazelnuts for their seasonal Chocolate Hazelnut Shake from Oregon orchards, onions for their onion rings from Walla Walla, and so on. In mid-January Burgerville became the first quick service restaurant chain to begin using cage-free eggs exclusively.

I ordered a Pepper Bacon Tillamook Cheeseburger with french fries and iced tea. The burger was perfection, well presented, hot and freshly made, and beautiful to look at. The bun was fresh and worthy of eating unlike most fast food hamburger buns. The beef was attractively seared and smelled wonderful. The bacon was cooked to perfection, not an afterthought or gimmick. The lettuce and tomato were the right color and provided the correct contrast to the hot burger. I would even have to compliment the flavor and quality of the mayonnaise.

The french fries were piping hot and crisp the way you would write the standard but which you rarely encounter in a fast food venue.  Even the iced tea was special, brisk and well extracted with a fruity nose and full body.

Although the burger basket took care of my physiological hunger, my eyes and brain needed to try two more items on the menu: the Halibut and the Chocolate Hazelnut Shake. I ordered them up before leaving on my way, and thankfully so. The Halibut was firm, flaky white, with a crisp and not greasy crust, absolutely delicious. And while I'm not really a milkshake lover, this one is the real deal and something you have to try. Other seasonal mikshakes and items are available in the Spring and Summer.

I was waited on by "Dannie" and "Bobbi" who made me feel like a local during my short stay in The Dalles. They allowed me to take their picture and when I was taking a picture outside Bobbi came out and took mine. That's the first time that's ever happened; thanks Bobbi! Y'all really exceeded my expectations.

Tuesday Night at Enoteca Vin in Raleigh NC

The much acclaimed Enoteca Vin is located in the old Pine State Creamery building in the now trendy Glenwood South District near downtown Raleigh. Fortunately my inaugural visit last week was with my Mother and Grandmother on Tuesday night.

Actually both "Mom" and "Granny" know the building for what it originally was, the old birthplace of the local favorite ice cream brand, Pine State. Raleigh may have changed a lot in recent years, but Mom and Granny are true natives.

Tuesday night turned out to be a good time to visit Enoteca Vin. The atmosphere is laid back like a rehearsal for the rest of the week. The crowd is low key, the staff accommodating and the performance fresh.

Enoteca Vin feels more like the genuine item than a copy. The mixture of city modern and down home tradition walks the line definitively. For example, chicken liver pate ($5) and deviled eggs ($5) reside comfortably alongside wild striped bass with mussels ($17) and steak frites with olive butter and red wine jus ($19). Chef and co-Owner Ashley Christensen succeeds at composing the menu with beauty, hedonics and passing notes of humor.

The wine list managed by co-Owner Chrish Peel is just enough out of the ordinary, and it's ever changing, affordable and flexible. For example, you can order wine in 1.5, 3, and 5 ounce glasses or by the bottle, and you can spend as little as $1.50 for a 1.5 ounce wine sample. This turned out to be perfect for my mother's needs.

As the driver for the evening, my wine tasting was limited to two very enjoyable wines, both from Bedford Road Estate in New Zealand: Sauvignon Blanc ($7.25/5oz.) and Pinot Noir ($6.20/3oz.).

The more adventurous (and non-drivers) might also select one of the delicious sounding cocktails such as the Pomegranate Punch or Lemon-Cucumber Gimlet made with Hendrick's gin.

Desserts and matching sweet libations rival the savory courses in their creativity, although we had to take a rain check on this trip.

Everything on the menu sounds like a winner, and you can view the current choices on Enoteca Vin's informative website.

The space itself is a visual treat, clean, comfortable, minimal yet warm and cozy. Service is crisp and professional.

The entire staff deserves a round of applause.

Vino Volo (Wine Flight) Small Bites at Sea-Tac Airport

How civilized!  Vino Volo is a new concept for the airport, offering wine flights, small bites, carry-out gourmet, carry-on ready bottles of wine, gifts and accessories.

I almost missed my flight from Seattle-Tacoma to Boise when I settled into this outpost and became too comfortable, enjoying three wine flights and a plate of delicious smoked salmon rolls with crabmeat, radish sprouts and crème fraîche.  Joe LaPanna, New Store Opening Manager says that is pretty common.  In fact, Joe told me Vino Volo patrons have been known to switch to a later flight in order to hang out at the wine bar a little longer.

Seattle-Tacoma is location number two in the up-and-coming chain which began with the first store at Dulles International Airport (Washington DC).  The Dulles store opened back in September, and the Sea-Tac location opened around November 1st.  LaPanna reports there are plans for more Vino Volo locations, with Sacramento, JFK and BWI (Baltimore-Washington) coming very soon.

It's about time.  Finally there is an alternative to the typical noisy crazy chain restaurant and its predictable low-end wines and pedestrian dishes.

Leaning to minimalism, the interior is crisp and clean like high-thread-count white cotton sheets, with just enough luxurious rich wood and very comfortable seating.  The lighting is excellent.  The people are professional and knowledgeable.  Each store has a relatively short list of well-chosen wines and wine flights, which rotate every six weeks.  The offerings are tailored to the region, with the Sea-Tac location specializing in hard-to-find yet affordable Washington State selections.  The Dulles location actually has a Virginia flight as well as selections tailored to the east coast traveler.

The food menu is also nicely short.  You won't have to wonder what is good, because if it's on the menu, it's good. Vino Volo uses local caterers for each store, scrutinized carefully.  In addition to the Salmon Rolls ($10), other small bites on this visit included plates of Artisan Cured Meats ($9), Chilled Seafood Paella ($8), Duck Confit and Lentil Salad ($12), Tuscan Chicken Sandwich ($8), Beecher's Ziti and Cheese ($8), Artisanal Cheese Plate ($9), Olive Plate ($5) and Roasted Marcona Almonds ($5).  Everything on the food menu is available to go.

There is a nice selection of maybe 50 wines by the bottle, priced attractively, well-chosen to represent the world, and because the store is beyond security you can take these bottles on the plane with you.

Wine flights are three pours (except the Sommelier Series which is two), about two ounces each pour, served in high-quality stems.  At Sea-Tac, you can select from four Washington State flights and four World flights.  The three Washington State flights I went for were "Washington Kings" ($10), "Christmas Cabernets" ($13) and "Winery Showcase: Alexandria Nicole ($9).  There really wasn't a wine in all nine that wasn't up to par.

If you're in the mood for the World flights, they consisted of: Sommelier Series, a two pour flight including Caymus Special Select Cab 2003 and Chateau Latour a Pomerol 2001 ($23), World Value Reds ($7), Northwest Noirs ($11) and Celebration Sparklers ($12).

Knowing I had to go through security once more before returning to Nashville, I held back and purchased two bottles I was really impressed with, with plans to check them through after my next stop in Boise.  Look for upcoming Winewaves reviews of Ash Hollow Walla Walla Merlot 2003 ($25) and Alexandria Nicole Quarry Butte Red Blend 2004 ($25).