winewaves

The Hunt for October Red

Click for a larger picture of these bottles.

The hunt for October red has turned up a whole lot of alternatives. Here are four to get the week off on the right track. I love them all and have repeated them in search of my favorite. I can't say which is best because they're all top notch, each perfect for the season, and each priced at about $15 or under per bottle. Two are from Spain, continuing on my October theme; one is French and one from Washington State. Perhaps the balance of the month will turn up something from California.

Eric Soloman's European Cellars is an importer many people trust. It's like a seal of approval for any Spanish wine in the eyes of many value conscious Americans. Eric brings us Capçanes Mas Donís Montsant Red 2004 ($15) and Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Tempranillo Roble 2005 ($13). Both are deep purple in the glass, but the Ercavio has more of an unfiltered appearance, showing some haziness under a halogen beam.

Mas Donís 2004 is mostly old-vine Grenache (80% Grenache with 20% Syrah) and has a perfumed black cherry nose with teaberry and hints of pencil lead. The body is medium, the flavor's tart and the mouth feel is moderately tannic. The cherry fruit along with some vanilla flavors come together nicely in the dusty dry finish. The only thing I don't like is the plastic cork. Why must anyone use that blasted plastic cork? Alcohol content: 14%.

Ercavio Tempranillo 2005 spent 5 months in French American oak and has a lovely aroma of black raspberry, loganberry and apple pie spice, plus the scent of a tobacco shop. Lush and fruit forward, this is what I would describe as a masculine comfort wine, and it would pair perfectly with a cheeseburger. The closure is a Nomacork*. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Jean-Philippe Bourgeois was the General Manager for Eric Solomon for 6 years, and now he is bringing French values to the American market. Château Capion 1C Rouge 2005 (Vin de Pays de l'Hérault, $13) is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and was barrel aged for 14 months. That sounds like a recipe for a great Bordeaux but this gem of a red comes from further south. Still you get the deep purple color and aromas of black currants, dark berries and hints of vanilla. The rich blackberry cobbler flavors envelop the mouth in a far reaching luscious dry finish.

The Magnificent Wine Company is the mass-production wing of K Vintners of Walla Walla, Washington. KV is the project of Charles Smith who brings us such magnificent wines as "The Creator". You might walk right past House Wine 2005 ($11) due to the rather "in your face" and non-standard graphics on the label. You might mistake it for a generic red blend but it's anything but. The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 11% Syrah, 3% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Here's another ideal Bordeaux blend, and the latitiude is virtually the same as Bordeaux. The resulting aromas and flavors are much better than the average house wine, with dark berry flavors and aromas, resolving nicely in to a lush dry finish that echoes the virtues of barrel aging. The closure is a real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

*The Nomacork is a composite resin artificial cork that is similar to the Neocork, but the Nomacork brand is much more popular in terms of units sold.

Pannotia Vineyards La Tierra De Castilla Garnacha 2006

Pannotia Vineyards is a virtual winery whose name was chosen to signify bringing together the wine world ("all the world is a single continent" = Pannotia). The founders describe Pannotia as "a new concept in wine, offering American wine lovers a portfolio of emblematic wines from around the world". Begun in the Spring of 2006, Pannotia managed to sell 10,000 cases in year 1 and their goal is 20,000 this year. They have put together a nice portfolio of what I would call "alternative wines", including Spanish Grenache, Argentine Malbec, Torrontes, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mendocino Zinfandel.

Pannotia brought on board Master Sommelier and Master of Wine Doug Frost as their consultant. I say he's a good choice. After all, who better to help break through the vast wine landscape than probably the only person with his level of wine expertise who also has a vast collection of punk rock and weird music records. Pannotia obviously does not want their wines to be confused with "your father's Oldsmobile".

Pannotia's labels currently all feature paintings by Cedar Falls, Iowa artist Gary Kelley. Gary has been hard at it producing works and perfecting his vibrant style for 35 years. It was Kelley's artwork that first made me take notice of Pannotia's line. Kelley's works range in scale from wine labels to 80-foot murals. You may have seen his murals in Barnes & Noble or his illustrations in Rolling Stone magazine.

Pannotia Garnacha 2006 is sourced from "the limestone hills south of Madrid".

In the glass the color is vibrant, deep candy apple red with bright purple edges and translucent. Sour cherry and framboise fruitiness is surrounded by black pepper and nuanced with a little bit of ash. Youthful bones and a medium body carry the dried cherry and pepper flavors well.

Excellent value ($12). Closure: Plastic cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Yep, this is an emblematic Spanish Garnacha (Grenache).

Marqués de Griñón Dominio De Valdepusa Caliza 2004

My travels never take me across the pond, but if they did I would chart a course to Spain and stay a while, seeing as much as possible. Therefore lately when I haven't been on the road, I've been charting a course through lots of Spanish wines. There are wine values to be had from every geography but this must be Spanish wine season because they are very popular in my glass right now.

Marqués de Griñón's central Spain estate Dominio De Valdepusa was the first to be granted its own appellation in 2003, in recognition of its unique terroir. The label reflects the shape of this geographic place of origin, near Toledo and Madrid. The name Caliza translates to limestone in Spanish, the sub soil that is credited with contributing to the texture of this wine.

Carlos Falcó is the visionary behind the estate. Having studied at U.C.-Davis, he returned to his estate near the ancestral home of the Marqués de Griñón to put in place modern approaches to producing wine. He enlisted the help of heavyweight consultants Dr. Richard Smart in the vineyard and Michel Rolland in the winery and he tapped Julio López Mourelle to become his lead winemaker.

Caliza 2004 is 65% Syrah and 35% Graciano, an indigenous Spanish grape I've not knowingly tasted in wines previous to this one. The appearance is deep purple eggplant with an opaque unfiltered appearance. (Michel Rolland typically discourages filtering from being practiced at wineries he consults with.) The aromas range from fine bourbon, dried tart cherry and forest/earth. The tannins are substantial yet polished providing an encore finish.

Excellent value ($22). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

Sensational, and easier to get to than Madrid.

Dominio De Tares Baltos Bierzo Mencia 2005

Bordering Galacia in northwest Spain, Bierzo is considered by some to be the next Priorat, maybe better, thanks to the Mencía grape. An early to ripen grape, Mencía produces concentrated flavors without overly high in alcohol.

I really love Baltos because it packs a punch in terms of flavor and mouth feel without approaching let alone exceeding the 30 proof level and the price is well under $20 a bottle price point.

Dominio De Tares harvests Mencía grapes 25 to 40-year-old vines and ages the wine in new to 3 year-old French and American barrels for 4 to 7 months.

Baltos is deep purple and nearly opaque in the glass, and complex, dark and earthy as the aromas reach your nose. I picked up a hint of bacon from the oak aging to complement the cassis and cherry fruit and floral notes. Very solidly tannic, some would say overly so but I like the tactile nature. Concentrated and intense flavors lead to that feeling of chewing on walnuts in the finish. I had to look in the mirror to see if this wine stained my teeth.

Outstanding value ($16). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Forget about others' over-priced "reserve" wines, Baltos goes the extra mile to deliver. What more can you ask for?

Mad Dogs & Englishmen Jumilla Monastrell 2005

It was Noel Coward who penned the lampoon tune in 1932 what shares the name of this wine. The irreverant wit Coward was adept at poking fun at the snobbery of British aristocracy.

"At twelve noon the natives swoon and no further work is done, But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun."

Mad Dogs & Englishmen the wine is another of the "wine-antisnob" Peter Click's imports, this one from Jumilla Spain. Jumilla is hot and dry, the kind of place where at midday one would be well advised to retreat and take a siesta. There Monastrell is the thing, a grape also known as Mourvedre. The 2005 vintage of Mad Dogs is half Monastrell (from 30-year-old un-grafted vines), plus 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Shiraz, barrel-aged.

Excellent value ($9). Closure: Neocork. Alcohol content: 14%.

Style: Fruit-forward, youthful and boldly seasoned, minerally.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby, translucent. Aromas: Cassis, loganberry and chocolate. Medium-bodied with moderate young tannins, the plethora of raspy fruit layers nicely over cocoa, white pepper and gravel. The finish is warm and dry as Noel Coward's wit.

Comment: Here's a no fuss way to hot the nail on the head with a Spanish red. Juxtapose it with filet mignon, medium rare.

Dominio Eguren Sierra Cantabria Rioja 2004

There is probably no better geographical origin than Rioja to get acquainted with Spanish wines, and no better Rioja than Sierra Cantabria, produced by the Eguren family.

Sierra Cantabria Rioja 2004 is 100% Tempranillo, aged approximately 6 months in French and American oak.

Excellent value: ($13). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Style: Complex but not heavy, a blend of the old and new worlds, with fruit and character.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple garnet. Aromas: Raspberry, black cherry, vanilla, light rose/floral notes, and cigar box. Medium-bodied tart and gravelly, the cherry, raspberry, white pepper and citrus rind flavors lead to a bold finish that's warm and comforting.

Comment: Versatile and worldly; this young Rioja is very compatible with steelhead trout.

Winewaves recently reviewed Dominio Eguren Codice Tempranillo 2004.

Dominio de Eguren Codice Tempranillo 2004

Codice translates to "laws, traditions, codes", originating from the Latin word for the earliest forms of books which were of course important manuscripts. Codice is a very modern and successful red wine produced by the many generational Eguren wine family.

Marcos Eguren, Technical Director at Dominio de Eguren is credited as Winemaker for Codice. The 100% Tempranillo was sourced from low-yielding vines and aged about 6 months in French and American oak barrels.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Candy apple red, translucent. Aromas: Plump bright red fruits and a bit of lightly smoky and spicy vanilla. Warm and medium-bodied, there is a fair amount of tannins and a nice chalky sensation on the tongue. Some tart citrus and spice joins the ample raspberry and cherry on the palate as the finish kicks out some oak flavor and stays firm.

Excellent value: $10. Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13%.

Food pairing: Southern pot roast and vegetables.

Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro La Planta Ribera Del Duero Tempranillo 2005

Tempranillo, also known as "Tinto Fino" seems to be catching a big wave in the USA, especially the easy going "Americanized" offerings that are making their way over from Spain. This noble grape grows well in the Ribera Del Duero region, which is situated about 100 miles to the north and slightly west of Madrid, where winters can be harsh cold and snowy.

The name Tempranillo eludes to the term "temprano" which translates to "early", and the short warm growing season of Ribera Del Duero is well suited to this quick ripening grape variety.

Traditionally Tempranillo has been a very important grape in Spain, although in the past you would not see its name on labels as frequently as today. Spanish producers are responding to "new world" labeling practices and adding the name of the grape along with the typical Bodega and Region identification.

Wines made from Tempranillo can be light and fruit forward like this one if aged very briefly. These are meant to be drunk young. Or they can be aged longer and become heavier, monumental and ageworthy. The latter are given the titles of Reserva or Gran Reserva if aged five years.

La Planta 2005 is 100% Tempranillo, cold fermented and aged 6 months in American and French oak barrels.  The Head Winemaker is Pascal Oscar Navarro and the wine is produced and bottled at the well known Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro. The wine was named after the La Planta game reserve and the relatively young vineyards adjacent to it, property owned by modern wine pioneer Florentino Arzuaga.

The Arzuaga Navarro winery is located in the village of Quintanilla de Onésimo, east of Valladolid, in the western end of Ribera Del Duero. Arzuaga has built a hacienda-style wine hotel with a renowned restaurant there, and you can stay at the hotel, be pampered and even go on a safari tour of the game preserve.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Color: Intense cherry red with purple edges, translucent.  Aromas: Bright raspberry, cherry, nutmeg to cola spice, citrus rind, and a bit of bacony oak. Light-to-medium bodied, tart and lightly tannic, there is plenty of red fruit, citrus rind and enough oak, and the finish is really easy going yet dusty dry.

Excellent value ($10). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Castell del Remei Gotim Bru Costers del Segre 2004

Easy to walk past but a delicious find, the red blend inside tastes more "Americanized" than the label suggests.  Eric Solomon/European Cellars is the importer of Gotim Bru which was displayed for sale alongside his big sellers Castaño Yecla and Equis.

Costers del Segre is a small arid growing area in western Catalonia near Barcelona.  There were historically more vines in the area until the middle of last century when a trend towards replanting olives and almond trees took hold.  Now the pendulum is swinging back to grapes again.

Gotim Bru 2004 is a blend of 65% Tempranillo, 20% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and it was aged 10 months in older French oak barrels.  The Castell del Remei estate is quite old but modernization began about 25 years ago with the current owners the Cusine family.  The family has planted Merlot and Cabernet, upgraded equipment and barrels and dialed up production with the US market in mind. 

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Nearly opaque, deep ruby.  Aromas: Cherry and mixed berry, sweet bourbon spice and hints of vanilla and mocha.  Medium-bodied, fairly tannic and gravelly dry, the fruit flavors are jammy and the finish is ample and warm.

Excellent value ($15).  Closure: Real cork.  Alcohol content: 14%

Red Guitar Navarra Old Vine 2005

Constellation Brands has introduced Red Guitar, a blend of 55% Tempranillo and 45% Garnacha from Navarra Spain, and it is off to a good start in Nashville.  Tempranillo and Garnacha (grenache) may not be as well known as Cab and Merlot, but Spanish reds are gaining in popularity.

In order to communicate that this is one of those hot new wines from Spain, C Brands plays on the fact that the guitar originated in Spain, employing a "Miro inspired" image on the label.

Interest in Spanish reds has been building due to the efforts of modern importers Jorge Ordoñez and Eric Solomon.  For years they have individually specialized in bringing new fruit-forward high-alcohol Spanish reds to our market.

Tasting Notes: Color: Deep purple ruby translucent.  Aromas: Sour cherry and grape, a bit candy-like, with dried fruit notes and hints of spicy vanilla.  The mouthfeel is medium-bodied and rustic with gravelly tannins.  The fruit flavors are well extracted and jammy and the finish is warm and dry.

Excellent value ($8).  Closure: Real cork.  Alcohol content: 14%.

Food pairing: Chili (no beans) and Fritos.