In the spirit of point-counterpoint, Siskel and Ebert (Ebert and Roeper) and other famous reviewing duos, this review is the parallel take on Jim Freeway's review of the same wine, here on Winewaves. Jim gave it a thumbs-down, I give it a thumbs-up, although I admit it is pricey compared to other alternatives.
My bottle of Mollydooker Goosebumps Sparkling Shiraz has been waiting for the right occasion to be opened for a good while. It's nearly time for the annually awaited release of Sparky's Mollydooker line, that eventually arrives in Nashville each October. My partner's birthday celebration would be enough, but Jim Freeway's timely review clinched the decision to pop that cork. When do you pop the cork on a $50+ bottle of sparkling Shiraz? Now.
I've had the pleasure of meeting Sparky, although not Sarah, his wife, who comes up with the fun graphic designs. Sparky can be an irreverent yet somewhat quiet person, even when he's in his opposite hemisphere, operating on a sleep deficit, and required to exist on a diet too rich in fermented products. Such are the hazards of the wine business, I suppose. My point here is Sparky does not seem to take himself that seriously, no matter the ratings and buzz that has surrounded most of his products.
In this spirit of "let's not take ourselves too seriously", Mollydooker Goosebumps is offered up. In that regard, I think it measures up quite well. This is not Champagne, it's sparkling Shiraz. We decided to pair it with a southern "meat and 3" dinner of country fried hamburgers and gravy, corn on the cob, herb mashed potatoes, slaw, and fresh sliced Brandywine tomatoes. This southern meal is a metaphor for the wine. Like a 4x4 pickup truck with a lift kit installed, this is Shiraz with a lift. If you're expecting a monumental Champagne experience, you're going to be disappointed. If you're looking for a new twist on Australian Shiraz, and your mind is open at the moment, you might get into it.
I wonder how many of the reviewers who have been disappointed with this sparkler had unrealized expectations. I admit one wonders about when is the right time to open a sparkling Shiraz. The answer is: when you are in the mood for fun. Or, when you're feeling a bit irreverent. This wine really would make more sense sold alongside Shiraz than Champagne. It's more Shiraz with a tickle, than Champagne with pigment. It opens the door to questioning how all wines are perceived versus the context they are presented. I've never been an advocate of blind tasting without context. That is, unless your are only attempting to measure the intensity of specific attributes. But when you're trying to assess an overall opinion, based on how much you like a wine, true blind tasting robs you of a context. Enough of this too-technical discourse.
Mollydooker Goosebumps Sparkling Shiraz 2006 provides plenty of rich purple bubbles. The appearance is deep, dark and nearly opaque, like a solid Shiraz. Blueberry and blackberry liqueur aromas are buffeted by a bit of smoke (Sparky says chocolate covered raisins). Flavor wise, it's like a well-extracted Shiraz, but lifted and more refreshing, especially served chilled. This seems like a good thing, as it provides a bounce to offset the density. The jammy anti-oxidant rich fruit, a mixture of black and blue berry, pomegranate, and acai, are tart enough. There is a nice tannic structure, and the finish has just a touch of that yeasty flavor to remind you it was fermented twice.
You can argue about the value premise here. It is a $50-60 bottle. But Mollydooker is an upmarket label, known for over-the-top extraction. If this was a Mollydooker still wine, I might find it too-too, and I might blend it with a light-bodied Grenache. With its bubbles, Goosebumps worked for me, as-is.
Sparky and Sarah Marquis split off from Dan Philips and his Grateful Palate Imports labels after the 2004 vintage of Marquis-Philips wines. Since then, both parties have delivered pure marketing and product magic. Grateful Palate continues to market the Marquis-Philips label, delivering great value within, but Marquis is no longer involved. Sparky and Sarah gave up the rights to the label that bears their own name in the "divorce". From my perspective, the split was a "Bitch", hence the Grateful Palate wine sensation by that name was born. However, Marquis and Philips seem to have landed feet first, at least for now.
Price: $50+ (2006 hard to find - 2007 soon). Alcohol content: 15%.
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