June 28, 2008

Shinas Estate "The Guilty" Shiraz 2005

Shinas Estate The Guilty Shiraz 2005Sometimes you can get lost in a wine. Or just lost - period. There's nothing wrong with letting go at these times. Not every mystery has to be solved. Let's face it, some wines, like some days, pose more questions than they answer, and it could be that we're better for it.

I kept having a sense of "deja vu" coming over me with this wine. "What's that smell, familiar yet elusive?" Or as Morrissey once put it, "Stop me, oh-oh-oh stop me; Stop me if you think that you've heard this one before." But for me the words never came, not even in the course of opening and tasting from 2 bottles.

St Petersburg Sea 2008 by Jerry Hall George Shinas, aka "The Judge", himself actually a criminal judge in Mildura, Victoria, Australia, has created a Shiraz that's rather like staring out into the sea at 1 a.m. You're drawn to its power and mystery, and captivated by its depth and infinity. You may want to describe it but the words you need remain on the tip of your tongue. It keeps you up a while before you finally let go. Tomorrow's another day and chances are, the next wine will show its face in the light of day, and the words will come to you to describe it.

Shinas Estate Shiraz 2005
has an unfiltered appearance, deep dark crimson. You might sense sweet spice, roasted dark chocolate and earthy notes over the top of the loganberry and blackberry fruit aromas. The finish lingers, like the best words to describe the whole experience, on the tip of your tongue, until you give up.

Judge Shinas reportedly only makes about 2000 cases of this Shiraz annually, so there isn't enough to go around. If you see it, you might want to grab a few bottles. Vine Street Imports represents in the USA.

Price: $19 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 15.3%.

June 04, 2008

Boxhead Shiraz Cabernet 2006

Box_head_shiraz_2006Whenever ten bucks can get this much bang, I'll take it. Better yet, nine-ninety-nine. Some people are dialing up the creativity, thinking out of the box, and finding ways to counterpoise vinflation. Boxhead begs the question, "How can they grow, vinify, bottle, cap, label, box, ship halfway across the world, warehouse, market, distribute, stock, pay the taxes, keep the lights on, ring up the cash register, and bag up a wine this good for 1000 U.S. pennies?

Seriously good, but not as serious as some of the brooding, tarry, more concentrated Australian Shiraz labels out there, Boxhead is no hopping marsupial. The alchemy is based on "a little of this, a little of that", and knowing which buttons to push. According to Vine Street Imports' web site, Clos Otto blended three separate lots, each made by different wine makers, each receiving different treatments. This is the kind of experiment I'm known to engage in at home. Blending can be fun, but hey, once upon a time I practiced as a Chemical Engineer! According to Vine Street, "The Langhorne Creek Cabernet spent many months in French oak. The Barossa Shiraz and Cabernet also spent time in old French oak barrels. The Western Victorian Shiraz was mostly unoaked insuring that the final blend remained vibrant." The blend is 72% Shiraz, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon.

There are more opaque, black Shiraz's out there, but I often need to blend those down with a lighter Grenache anyway. There is some blackberry character in Boxhead, as well as more red currant and blueberry tendencies. You get a bit of vanilla in the nose as well, owing to the French oak, and cocoa powder tannins. The only complaint anyone might come up with is that Boxhead is too likeable, therefore it must be up to no good. But then, why sabotage a moment of pleasure with such negative thinking?

While it's good by itself, Boxhead goes great with The Neely's Barbecue Turkey Meatloaf, as seen on the Food Network. On this Wednesday night, the Neely's recipe got a twist that made the pairing with Boxhead even better. Mix lean grass-fed organic ground beef with the specified ground turkey (50/50), then crack a tablespoon of black peppercorns very coarsely and throw them in with the peppers and onions as you saute them. Think "The Neely's Barbecue Meatloaf Au Poivre".

Price: $10 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

October 03, 2007

Marqués de Griñón Dominio De Valdepusa Caliza 2004

My travels never take me across the pond, but if they did I would chart a course to Spain and stay a while, seeing as much as possible. Therefore lately when I haven't been on the road, I've been charting a course through lots of Spanish wines. There are wine values to be had from every geography but this must be Spanish wine season because they are very popular in my glass right now.

Marqués de Griñón's central Spain estate Dominio De Valdepusa was the first to be granted its own appellation in 2003, in recognition of its unique terroir. The label reflects the shape of this geographic place of origin, near Toledo and Madrid. The name Caliza translates to limestone in Spanish, the sub soil that is credited with contributing to the texture of this wine.

Carlos Falcó is the visionary behind the estate. Having studied at U.C.-Davis, he returned to his estate near the ancestral home of the Marqués de Griñón to put in place modern approaches to producing wine. He enlisted the help of heavyweight consultants Dr. Richard Smart in the vineyard and Michel Rolland in the winery and he tapped Julio López Mourelle to become his lead winemaker.

Caliza 2004 is 65% Syrah and 35% Graciano, an indigenous Spanish grape I've not knowingly tasted in wines previous to this one. The appearance is deep purple eggplant with an opaque unfiltered appearance. (Michel Rolland typically discourages filtering from being practiced at wineries he consults with.) The aromas range from fine bourbon, dried tart cherry and forest/earth. The tannins are substantial yet polished providing an encore finish.

Excellent value ($22). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

Sensational, and easier to get to than Madrid.

July 15, 2007

Wishing Tree Western Australia Shiraz 2005

Wishing Tree Western Australia Shiraz 2005

In the spirit of the Wishing Tree, I wish I had more time this Summer to share wine experiences here on Winewaves. To say I've been in a time crunch is an understatement. Because I've had to cut back, the wines that I do mention are the real deal, the ones that stand out. Expect lots of bang for the buck with Wishing Tree Shiraz 2005. It's tailor made for a real hickory grilled burger and a slab of homegrown Cherokee Purple tomato.

Outstanding value ($10). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Style: Lush, fruit forward, with some oak spice.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple eggplant, translucent. Aromas: The full spectrum of berry from red to black is there, and that definitely includes blueberry. There's also some rustic cassia spice, like a cross between cinnamon and aromatic bark. Some pepper displays on the tongue along with moderate tannic structure. The result is satisfying, smooth, dry, and the lush fruit carries from start to finish.

Tomatoes

As you can see, I've been busy growing some fine looking heirloom tomatoes. The vines are literally out of control and the Brandywines are sensational, not to mention the Cherokee Purple and Amish Paste.

May 07, 2007

Pure Love Barossa Jack Shiraz 2005

Pure Love Barossa Jack Shiraz 2005

Jack Russell terriors are cute, but they're also tough and focused dogs who protect their owners from ground level vermin such as rats, mice, rabbits and snakes. In the Barossa, a bold Jack is a good friend to have indeed.

Pure Love is the affordable line of Australian Shiraz produced by Jayson Woodbridge and Barossa Jack pays homage to his faithful if short legged best friend. Winewaves just reviewed Layer Cake Shiraz and Jack is an identical top notch effort.

Excellent value ($15). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Style: Lush, fruit forward, some oak spice.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple ruby, translucent. Aromas: Raspberry, cassis, loganberry, dark chocolate and sweet spice. The mouthfeel is warm, tart, richly sweet and then dry and well structured. The dark red fruit liqueur and chocolate flavors are tenacious and gripping yet cuddly.

Comment: Jack could win "Best of Show" on any given night. It's a "piece of cake". This dog hunts.

May 02, 2007

Pure Love Wines Layer Cake Barossa Shiraz 2005

Pure Love Wines Layer Cake Barossa Shiraz 2005

I'm always on the lookout for a really nice piece of cake, especially the chocolate layer variety. Not just any old "cranked out" assemblage will do, it needs to be monumentally on point. This one's worth the calories.

Pure Love Wines is the most approachable project of Jayson Woodbridge, who is the cult star of "Hundred Acre" wines. Layer Cake is everywhere. Personally I spotted it in Las Vegas, Nashville (Frugal MacDoogal) and Houston (at Spec's on Westheimer).

Excellent value ($13). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Style: Lush, fruit forward, some oak spice.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple ruby, semi-opaque. Aromas: Blackberry, raspberry, loganberry, fruity dark chocolate and hints of sweet spice. On the tongue the powerful body is marbled and wrapped in plush icing. The liqueur chocolate flavors reverberate decadent tones before the lights go out.

Comment: Grab it while it's making appearances all around the USA. "You look like you need a nice piece of cake".

April 18, 2007

Goats Do Roam Red 2005

Goats Do Roam Red 2005

Goats Do Roam Red was the first of this namesake casual wine company's offerings created by Charles Back in 1999. The venerable owner/vintner of Fairview has built his Goat symbol into the single best-selling South African wine label in the U.S.

Here is a great example of using a "critter" to weave together a wine, winery and wine region's story in a way that resonates with consumers. Long story short, the goats that live in the tower are let out into the vineyards and find the sweetest grapes. The humble goat, likeable to all and a worldly beast, is believable. And the name is among the cleverest in the field, Back's play on Côte du Rhône.

"The grapes are vinified in Fairview’s cellar in Paarl by Charles Back and resident winemaker Anthony de Jager, also responsible for the Fairview range." The blend is heavy on the Shiraz and Pinotage, with Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Merlot, Carignan, Gamay and Cabernet added to give it a unique "Western Cape field blend" style; a lovely patchwork quilt of grapes.

Most of the fruit comes from dry farmed old bush vines in and around Paarl and Malmesbury. A smidgen of oak seasoning is provided prior to blending the individual lots.

Excellent value ($10). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14%.

Style: Fruit forward, low tannins, with easy spice.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby translucent. Aromas: Plum, pomegranate, cinnamon and bacon. Light to medium bodied and tangy sweet and sour on the palate, the red purple fruit and barbecue-esque flavors are warming in the easy dry finish.

Comment: You could say it has a Pinot Noir body and a Syrah personality. Try it with Chicken Cordon Bleu.

April 07, 2007

Domaine D'Aupilhac Montpeyroux Languedoc 2004

Domaine D'Aupilhac Montpeyroux Coteaux du Languedoc 2004

The fastest and most economical way to get to the south of France may well be this luxurious cuvée that could also be called "the velvet underground". Open the bottle and you are there; this is the genuine article, bold and sophisticated.

Sylvain Fadat, proprietor of Domaine D'Aupilhac is the fifth generation to farm the Languedoc, near the village of Montpeyroux. Previously he grew white asparagus and melons before turning to wine grapes. Considered outspoken and wildly progressive, Sylvain champions the cause of delivering the best of the Languedoc to new world wine consumers.

With the help of his wife Desirée and the staff, Sylvain farms about 50 acres of grapes and is also the chief winemaker, marketer and "bottle washer". The 2004 vintage of Montpeyroux is a blend of 30% Mourvedre (a.k.a. Monastrell en España), 28% Carignan, 25% Syrah, 12% Grenache and 5% Cinsault. Aging was 20 months, underground, in large "old foudres" and oak barrels.

Outstanding value ($15). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

Style: Fruit forward, lush, complex, unfiltered, some oak spice.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple cranberry with a nice unfiltered haze, nearly opaque. Aromas: Framboise, blackberry, dried blueberry, rose petals and hints of sweet spice. Medium to full-bodied with a firm structure, the generous fruit flavors take center stage joined by a bit of savory pepper, leading to a dry gravelly finish that evolves a bit of sophisticated oak spice.

Comment: A lot of people talk about terroir, but Sylvain Fadat delivers.

Winewaves reviewed the 2004 vintage of D'Aupilhac Lou Maset, a less aged cuvee.

Kermit Lynch is the importer.

April 02, 2007

Hahn Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Syrah 2005

Hahn Estates Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Syrah 2005

Hahn Estates, led by wine marketing savant Bill Leigon brought Rex Goliath "47 Pound Rooster" to the market and then sold the label. Now they're incubating several new labels including this one. And they're giving "Cycles Gladiator" their all with a lush label image, lots of lush fruit and plenty of oak - what a deal - get it while it lasts!

According to the winemakers Adam LaZarre and Paul Clifton, Cycles Syrah '05 is 83% Syrah, 14% Petite Sirah grown in Monterey and Paso Robles, aged just under a year in 2/3 new French oak. Cases produced: 12,500.

The racy label (first printed the year 1895) is a reproduction of a poster ad for a bicycle which came out at the pinnacle of the bicycle era in the late 19th century.

Outstanding value ($9). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Style: Lush, fruit forward, some oak spice.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple cranberry, semi-opaque. Aromas: Sweet spicy plum, red, black and blue berry, black pepper and tobacco. The mouthfeel is medium to full bodied with moderate acidity. Rich without being overwhelming, the bacon-tinged somewhat jammy fruit flavors play well into the worth waiting for "Perry Mason" dénouement.

Comment: Bacon cheeseburger heaven, this is much better than expected.

March 28, 2007

K Vintners The Creator Walla Walla 2003

K Vintners Creator Walla Walla 2003

The fetching label etching featuring "K" vintner Charles Smith on the front, the white plastic sealing "wax" and the heavyweight bottle with its deep punt get your attention. Now that your mind is focused on the wine inside you might see the creator and the origin, Hallelujah!

K_creator_wax K Vintners' proprietor Smith managed rock bands in Europe before settling in Walla Walla to make his signature wines. In addition to the cultish Creator, he makes the very popular "House Wine" Red blend which sells for about $10.

The aesthetic works for me. I like black and white, red wine, not to mention the Walla Walla vibe.

The Creator 2003 is 60% En Cerise Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah.

Very nice value ($40). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

Style: Complex, earthy dark fruit and spice with some oak.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple eggplant, opaque. Aromas: Sweet spicy blackcurrant preserve is joined by earth and coffee. There's plenty of body but it's smooth to the touch and just lightly tart. The dark fruit lingers as a modicum of oak spice evolves in the resonating finish.

Comment: If I could afford to I would open this one frequently.

Taj of Cork & Demon Wine Blog got some great pictures of Charles and K Vintners along with a "must check out" interview last May. Go check it out.

Winewaves reviewed House Wine last year.

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