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Rated XXX: Rosenblum Vintner's Cuvée XXX Zinfandel

This year, 2008, marks the 30th anniversary of Kent Rosenblum's foray into professional wine making under the Rosenblum Cellars label, hence XXX marks the vintage. The reference to adult cinema cannot be missed and is mentioned on the label: "Vintner's Cuvée XXX is not X-rated, but it is a spicy, overt and fruit-forward wine, filled with bright raspberry and cherry flavors."

This year the 60-something Rosenblum sold his label to Diageo, the international drinks giant, known for brands including Johnnie Walker, Tanqueray, Crown Royal, José Cuervo, Smirnoff, Bailey's, and many more. Their wine portfolio is one of the U.S. top 10 in sales. Not looking to get out of the business, Rosenblum agreed to stay on to oversee wine making and promote the brand.

This is certainly the trend of 2008: the big wine "houses" are getting bigger, and the small and medium houses have to mount a successful contra-marketing campaign to get noticed outside their tasting rooms. This parallels a trend towards more retail markets opening up wine sales to grocery stores and mass merchandisers, something currently being discussed hotly in Tennessee, my backyard.

Like it or not, gone are the days when oenological ideology and a small nest egg was enough to launch a competitive wine business. But like any trend, this one may reverse itself one day, the same way brewery consolidation eventually led to a rebirth of microbreweries.

Meantime, Rosenblum's Vintner's Cuvée Zinfandel is easy to recommend, and always has been for me, because the quality is consistently excellent for the money. Expect lots of dark berry cherry fruit plus overtones of spice and vanilla, all very well displayed to the senses, smoothly textured, on a youthfully muscular frame and finish. Let's hope Kent Rosenblum really hangs around for Cuvées to come.

In reference to this being Cuvée XXX, let me quote the venerable Poet Laureate Billy Collins from his book, Ballistics, his poem titled Pornography. Collins isn't describing a bottle of wine, but this poem immediately came to my mind for Vintner's Cuvée XXX.

"This is all I need to inject me with desire,
to fill me with the urge to lie down with you,
or someone very much like you,

on a cool marble floor or any fairly flat surface
as clouds go flying by
and the rustle of tall leafy trees

mixes with the notes of birdsong -
so clearly does the work speak of vanishing time,
obsolete musical instruments,

passing fancies, and the corpse
of the largely forgotten painter moldering
somewhere beneath the surface of present-day France."

In summary, I disagree with the label. This wine is definitely X-rated, which means I very much recommend it.

Price: $12 (Nashville). Closure: Noma/Neocork. Alcohol content: 14.6%.

Can the Circle Be Unbroken? Bogle Phantom 2005

In between the last sips of the last glass of this bottle of Bogle Phantom 2005, I pick up my blue guitar and strum a few measures of that old hymn and wonder what it means. What circle? The reason this tune is on my mind has to do with the seemingly imminent passing of an uncle. He's about to leave a gap in the circle here, and I suppose he will join the circle of those who left before. This is a favorite song of his and he is on my mind.

Whenever I play my guitar, there are phantoms in my head. One tends to play tunes written or performed by those who have already left the room. I first picked up a guitar as a point of entry into the head of one such person. You can learn a lot from those who pass before.

Bogle Phantom turns out to be a lush wine, offering up lots of fruit preserves flavors and aromas, wrapped in sweet spicy oak overtones. Plummy, cherry and currant fruit abounds. The spice is a bit along the lines of a Moroccan blend, and there's a touch of vanilla in there as well.

The blend is 55% Petite Sirah, 42% Zinfandel, with the balance being Mourvedre (Monastrell). The spicy notes are brought out through the time spent lying in American oak barrels. Bogle is known for giving a lot of wine for the money, and Phantom always sells out quickly. I guess that's why they call it Phantom - it's elusive - hard to get a hold of, so to speak.

Earlier in the evening, we paired Phantom with some barbecue beef, of the sweet tomato variety. Anything of that hearty stick-to-your-ribs sort of food will pair well. Now that the last sip is gone, I put down my guitar and let go of the day.

Price: $19 (Nashville). Closure: real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%

Zins Off the Beaten Path: Girasole Mendocino Zinfandel 2006 and Renwood Sierra Foothills Zinfandel 2005

Among the reds, Zinfandel is the most primal and comforting. Often seen as outclassed by buttoned-down Cabernet, temperamental Pinot Noir, or blockbuster Shiraz, Zin dispenses with all the formalities, allowing you to find your Z-spot. It's like riding down the beach road, after the tourists have left for the season, with a sunset and tail wind behind you. Zin is the perfect wine for a slowdown, be it a weekend off or an economic meltdown.

Often brutally strong, going upwards of 16.5% ethanol, there are those Zinfandels that deliver lots of flavor at 13.5%. Everyone knows Dry Creek Valley, Napa, Paso Robles and Lodi are home to great Zins, but how about Mendocino or the Sierra Foothills? These are Zins off the beaten path.

Girasole Vineyards Mendocino Zinfandel 2006 is made from organic grapes, which adds to the comfort factor. Organic is getting popular on wine labels, but you don't see it on many Zinfandels. Expect aromas of blackberry cola with hints of earthy menthol and sage. Red-fruity, spicy-tart, and slightly earthy on the palate, the finish is quite dusty and gripping without being heavy.

Price: $12 (Shallotte, NC). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Renwood Sierra Foothills Zinfandel 2005 is loaded with cherry pie, mocha, and tobacco aromas. Lush and soft for a Zin, the red fruit is ample, and then soft tannins and a faint whiff of sweet pipe smoke lingers in the finish.

Price: $12 (Shallotte, NC). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Put something on the grill, raise a glass of either of these Zinfandels, and toast the quiet comfort that only comes from every third cottage on the street being empty and for sale.

Hardly Petite: Michael David Lodi Petite Petit 2006 and EOS Paso Robles Petite Sirah 2004

Petite Sirah was originally known as Durif, named after Dr. François Durif who first crossed French Syrah and Peloursin in 1880. Acreage of this misunderstood grape has been on a roller coaster ever since, but is on an upswing once again.

Michael David Lodi Petite Petit 2006 is the perfect wine for the election season. Circus elephants grace the label, and a couple of glasses will make you believe Sarah Palin has foreign policy experience.

Like elephants whose size is imposing, Petite Petit is large. But also like the elephant, the personality is sweet, and the only risk posed is that of being stepped on. Michael-David's signature "smokehouse" aromas waft past the very ample aromas of ripe plummy fruit. On the tongue, the fruit is sweet, and the texture is smooth.

Petite Petit gets its name from the fact that a minor (15%) portion of Petit Verdot is blended in. All the fruit is sourced from Lodi, and the aging is 14 months in French oak.

Price: $17 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content:  14.5%.

You might think someone just opened a fancy box of chocolates when you sniff EOS Petite Sirah 2004. Overtones of chocolate, caramel and nuts combine with loganberry fruit to create a nose that's coming into its own right now.

On the tongue, the EOS is brawny, not petite by any means. Bold and not for the meek, the fruit is deep and remains quite tart for a 4-year-old. There are plenty of tannins in the finish to carry the plethora of fruit and spice flavors.

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

These are both very nice value-priced Petite Sirah's worthy of staining your newly whitened teeth. If pressed, I would take the EOS overall (by a nose), and paired with anything chocolate. On the other hand, I would take the Petite Petit for being best on the tongue, and for pairing with Barbecue.

Petite Sirah is at its best when paired with winter savory dishes like stews or pot roasts, but don't hesitate to serve it like Zinfandel, with burgers, pizza, chocolate, barbecue, or even your favorite smokable, if you're so inclined. For more information about Petite Sirah, visit the advocacy group: P.S. I Love You.

For all you Vince Neil (Motley Crüe) fans out there, EOS is working with Vince and now has a Vince Neil Petite Sirah available over the internet only. It's really affordable, and here's the link to the EOS web site where you can find it as long as it's available: click here.

A Taste of Havana BC (Before Castro)? Hey Mambo Swanky White 2006 and Sultry Red 2006

Don Sebastiani and Sons has a new label out, and it captures the mood of the new wine buyer quite well. Hey Mambo is in step with young wine consumers who are just discovering what they like. The dynamic duo of winemaking, Richard Bruno and Greg Kitchens simply can't not make great wine for the money. And the Sebastiani marketing magic shows no signs of running out of steam.

There was a time when Havana was the world's playground, dwarfing Las Vegas. Anything went. People danced the Mambo and let loose of all inhibitions. Unfortunately, shortly after I was conceived, Havana went into a coma by way of Castro's "revolution". I must rely on the memories of my aunts and uncles, movies, books and interviews to get a sense of the sensuality that played itself out before New Years' 1959.

The Hey Mambo "Brand" is in its first year, vintage 2006, for both Swanky White and Sultry Red. The packaging is very successful, with the glossy "black and white and red all over" photographics case packaging, the screaming to-the-point label and the red "waxy" Zork closure.

The wines don't disappoint. Hey Mambo Swanky White 2006 is a category-defying fruity blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Muscat Canelli and Chenin Blanc. These are grapes that, for the most part, are known perhaps no better in the USA, than by Richard Bruno. Once quirky, now these grapes are becoming the staples of many so-called "alternative" whites, but fine-tuning them is a trick not every wine maker can pull off.

Swanky is an apt description. The nose is absolutely alluring, sexy, intoxicating, with its crosscurrents of honey, apricots, apples, ginger spice and cold blossoms. But then on the tongue, you are awakened from your stupor with a slap of citrus, the likes of grapefruit and lemon-lime, perhaps even green apple crispness. Another reason this wine is dead-on for the newcomers of wine is the finish. It's pretty much dry, but not DRY! The fruit is sweet, so the finish plays out in a way that makes friends of both the experienced and not-so-experienced taster.

Sultry Red is a blend of Barbera, Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignane and Alicante Bouchet. In other words, this is a true, old-timey "field blend", albeit reinvented. Once again, this is the type of composition Richard Bruno is well acquainted with. "Bistro Style" is written all over the wine, as it is also captured in the small print on the front label. Imagine the glaze that will appear on the eyes of the guests you are pouring for, when you get to recite all six varieties that are contained within. No Cab, No Merlot? No kidding!

Hey Mambo Sultry Red 2006 is worthy of its burning hot name. The color is deep candy apple red. The aroma is Zin-like, a bit smoky like a Havana cigar, loaded with raspberry, loganberry, and redcurrant preserves, hovering over new leather club chairs. A bit of clove-y baking spice asserts itself on the tongue, as well as dusty cocoa and more of those sweet berries. The finish is dusty dry like the old vineyards land that bore the fruit.

Both wines' stats are identical, and either (or both) are capable of putting you "in the mood".
Price: $12 (Nashville). Closure: Zork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Don and Sons have some great food pairing suggestions for these wines. I can vouch for Swanky White paired with USA-wild-caught shrimp quesadillas, and Sultry Red with free-range spicy chicken sausages with sundried tomatoes and herbs. In other words, get out the spice, the cheese, the onions, and go wild. If you're wearing a button-down shirt, unbutton it!

A Look At Three 2006 Paso Robles Cabs: Robert Hall, Victor Hugo and Justin

Robert Hall is a most likable person. From my selfish point of view, his second career in the wine business has been more rewarding than his first career as a real estate developer in Minnesota. You wouldn't be blowing smoke or be guilty of sacrilege, if you called him the Robert Mondavi of Paso Robles.

Robert Hall Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is the personification of California Cabernet as I think of it; at once world class, modern, optimistic, expressive, and not overpriced. A lot of California Cabernets have forgotten about that last idea, not overpriced. But somehow, maybe due to the midwestern roots of the eternally youthful Mr. Hall, the Cab he puts his name on hasn't gotten priced out of my range. I'm rooting for his longevity, and that he hangs on to his winery as long as possible, so we can continue to buy his great wines at a great price.

Expect classic Cab aromas of black currants, cassis liqueur and sweet spice, with overtones of cedar. Neither under ripe nor a fruit bomb, this is a luxurious buttoned-down claret suitable for casual affairs. Neither opulent nor austere, neither stuffy nor nouveau riche, this Cab is clean, true to form, and it over-delivers. The textbook Cab flavors evolve nicely on the tongue, staying black in fruit character, and the structure asserts itself as the spice evolves in the cocoa-dust-laden finish.

This Cab is 80+% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc blended in. Barrel aging was 14 months.

Price: $18 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

A long time ago, Victor Hugo said, "My tastes are aristocratic, my actions democratic." The 19th century French poet and human rights activist expressed himself in many ways throughout his life, though he was perhaps best known for his epic work "Les Misérables". Conservative in his youth before becoming a "free-thinker" and advocate for the "common man" later in life, he said, "the wise man does not grow old, but ripens."

It is fitting that Victor Hugo Roberts chose to make the literary connection when he labeled his wines. Paso Robles is an appropriate place for free-thinking people to grow wise and ripen. We expect provocative no-holds-barred, expressive, let's say well-extracted, wines to come from Paso Robles. Victor Hugo (Roberts) delivers with Victor Hugo Cabernet 2006.

If someone put a brown bag on this Cab, you might not guess it for a Cab; you might be thinking Zinfandel. As Cabernet goes, this is a fruit bomb. If you're going to drop bombs, I say make them out of fruit. This is a most decadent Cabernet Sauvignon, the kind of Cab that makes you want to loosen you tie and get in the hot tub. Deep candy apple red in color, it has a slight haze to it that makes it seem opaque. The aromas are raspberry, blueberry, loganberry, nutmeg, sweet spice and hints of earth. On the tongue, black cherry and spice flavors carry forward the democratic decadence - hedonism for everyone. The finish is dusty dry with a nice kick to it. It's not a textbook Cab, but you can't help but like it.

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aging was 18 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels.

Price: $20 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.8%.

My favorite Victor Hugo quote? "Forty is the old age of youth; fifty the youth of old age." Why? I'll be fifty in December.

Justin Baldwin began pioneering wine making in Paso Robles in the early 1980's. Together with wife Deborah and their staff, the focus of Justin is combining old world tradition and new world techniques. They succeed with Justin Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. This is a complex, firm, steak wine.

Barrel aging was 18 months in 3/10 new oak, American and French, weighted more towards American.

The color is deep dark crimson, with an unfiltered slightly hazy appearance that makes it seem opaque. Expect tart cherry and blackberry flavors and aromas to dominate the palate, while spice, roasted and vanilla notes play over the fruit in the nose. All the while, tannins will likely keep a firm grip on your tongue. I found the finish to be dusty and gravelly, like a Pauillac, with a bit of vanilla being the last note.

Price: $25 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

I can only conclude one thing from comparing these outstanding, albeit different Paso Robles Cabs. That is, a trip to Paso Robles needs to be on my agenda for the very near future. It may not be as easy to get to as Napa, Sonoma, Santa Barbara, Temecula, Monterey, Mendocino, or Amador. But the pilgrim's path is never easy. Meanwhile, you can't go wrong with any of these Paso Cabs.

Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2005

Unbeknownst to me, Bearboat Pinot Noir has been around a while. An unknown commodity to me when it arrived a couple of months ago in Nashville, I was destined to gravitate towards it. After all, it has all the pieces of the puzzle I'm looking for.

First, I like the label. It's smack dab in the middle of classic and tongue-in-cheek, with its engraved quality, somewhat sepia tones, and the humorous bears-in-the-boat illustration. Second, it's Russian River Pinot Noir, rarely a mistake to buy under $20. Next, there's the weighty burgundy bottle that you wouldn't want to drop on your foot, but you would want to open. And then there's all the hidden meanings. By that I mean the bear, primarily. The bear as the symbol of Russia. The bear as the symbol of California. And last but not least, the bear as the symbol of jocular middle-age gay guys (such as myself), who love to inhabit the Russian River area, particularly the town of Guerneville, often with cubs in tow.

I haven't yet grown into the body of a true bear, but that's due to all the jumping rope and bicycling that tends to keep me on the lean side. I don't have any facial hair, but that's a superficial manifestation. I'm a late bloomer, so maybe I can report back when I've reached true bear status and can afford to spend weekends in a cabin along the Russian River. Until then, I'll stick with sampling as many Russian River Pinots as I can.

Piper-Sonoma, owned by Remy Cointreau last time I checked, produces the Bearboat line. The line is reportedly a 60,000+ case business, including Chardonnay. How is it this juice never found its way past my lips before?

Nowadays $20 doesn't guarantee you a fabulous Pinot Noir experience, but rather, you're happy if you get something with some real character and finesse. With well-known wine maker and consultant Raphaël Brisbois reportedly combining his technical expertise with Piper-Sonoma's Pinot Noir sourcing prowess, you would be disappointed if something really good didn't emerge. And out of the Bodega Bay fog comes a classic palate pleaser.

Ten months in French oak is judicious, and lightly fining the wine leaves a hint of fog in the bright garnet color. Expect a Pinot that's a bit more towards red than black, but with some of both. Not surprisingly for a bubbly maker's efforts, a bit of toast surrounds the aromas of black cherry and red currant. On the tongue, you might say it's more like strawberry and red currant preserves, joined by a licorice "buzz" - more a mouth feel thing than that licorice candy or Ouzo you think of. The texture is downright silky. Overall, I give it high marks for freshness, fruit, and refined texture, and it's well worth the $20 price paid.

Bearboat goes great with, what else, wild salmon! It's only Monday, and we had a couple of end filet's from a sockeye, so this fish found its way onto our plates in the form of salmon cakes. Instead of the usual salmon from the can, we crisped the fish, then poached it the rest of the way in Picpoul de Pinet. Then we picked it into small pieces, let it cool, grated in some sweet onion, cracked in some pepper, lumped in some leftover mashed potatoes, shook in some whole wheat panko crumbs, shook in some celery seed, added a beated egg, and formed patties. Back into the original pan they went, with more olive oil and butter, and the result was lots better than the standard Monday night salmon cakes. Pinot Noir, in this case Bearboat, is a great match for such fare. The meal became complete with the side dishes: speckled butter beans, turnip greens, cole slaw and fresh heirloom tomatoes (for the 40th day in a row!).

Price: $20 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

The Schizophrenic Nature of Bordeaux Blend Minor Components: Hahn Estates Cabernet Franc 2006 and Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

There are six varieties allowed in Bordeaux red blends. On the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is king; whereas Merlot rules on the right bank. Then there is Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere. These are the "minor notes", that play an important role in rounding out each Chateau's proprietary claret. Of these four, Malbec stands on its own in Argentina, Carmenere does well on its own in Chile, but Cab Franc and Petit Verdot are much less frequently presented a lá carte.

Could it be that Cab Franc and Petit Verdot play the important role of improving the versatility of a claret that's based on Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot? If so, at their best, these are "chameleon" varieties, able to fit in with whatever surroundings they find themselves in. They are the "funny" grapes, the schizophrenic grapes, and that's a good thing. Thankfully, new world wine enterprises are experimenting with stand-alone Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Cab Franc is popular around Walla Walla, Washington, and Petit Verdot is gaining strength in Australia.

These two wines illustrate the positives of their schizophrenic nature, as well as pointing out the uniqueness they contribute to more noble blends.

Hahn Central Coast Cabernet Franc 2006

Cab Franc could be called the love grape, what requires lots of foreplay. It doesn't ripen until it's ready, and that typically means late November in the northern hemisphere. There is an advantage to taking your time, which is why I love Cab Franc.

When someone sticks their neck out and makes a Cab Franc, on its own, I want to taste it. Hahn Estates, who has a knack for turning out great value and authentic flavor, quietly released Cabernet Franc 2006. Figure most of their Cab Franc goes into their top notch affordable Meritage. Fortunately Hahn isn't afraid to throw caution to the wind and put out this Cab Franc.

You can expect tons of soft raspberry fruit packed into an atmosphere that's lightly perfumed and elegantly smoky.  Here is the embodiment of finesse, to be enjoyed at one's leisure. The fortuitous schizophrenia comes into play when pairing this Cab Franc with any mood or food. It goes great with everything. From cedar plank salmon to duck to steak, or just by itself, mix it up!

Price: $16 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.3%.

Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

Petit Verdot is said to play a role in "stiffening the mid-palate" of Cabernet Sauvignon based Bordeaux blends. It is used to deepen the color and add more tannic backbone. And, it is said to be the grape that contributes that "pencil shavings", or what I call "oregano" character. Some consider it a bit difficult to tame on its own, like Tannat.

In Australia, Petit Verdot has been coming into its own. In fact, Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot seems to sell better than its siblings in the range, that includes better known Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir. De Bortoli has consistently scored well with this Petit Verdot, pleasing the palates of all the world's gurus, from Food & Wine, to the Wine Advocate, to the Wine Spectator.

Expect lots of red ripe fruit, almost candy-like, to evolve out of your wine glass past your nose. I wouldn't disagree there is some essence of oregano here, although it's certainly not overwhelming. There isn't a lot of oak influence showing through, a fact that may just mean the integration job was masterfully executed. Sprinkle in a hint of tobacco, and that's it. The tannins are juicy but not harsh. Here again is a schizophrenic wine that can play well in a range of situations.

Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

No wonder these varieties find their way into fine Bordeaux blends and California "Meritage" blends. It's perhaps not that they impart some special, polarizing essence that must be kept in small amounts to be palatable. Quite to the contrary, it seems these are the moderating influences that bring an extreme Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot to the center.

Want to have even more fun? Mix these 2 lovely wines together!

Now and Then: Scott Harvey Amador County Zinfandel 2004 and Folie à Deux Ménage à Trois Red 2006

Scott Harvey is an overnight success in the wine business. If you believe that I've got a bridge to sell you. After 20+ years in the business, after achieving partnership in Folie à Deux, he championed the brand known as Ménage à Trois, which was since purchased by Sutter Home parent Trinchero. That fateful launch was some 10 +/- years ago, and now Scott, along with Jana (his wife, an industry "veteran" as well), have their own labels.

I didn't know this history of Scott Harvey Zinfandel until after I opened a few bottles of Amador Mountain Selection 2004. Actually it was a comment on a Winewaves post about Wingnut Amador Zin that revealed the connection to Ménage à Trois. But every label has a story, don't it? You think you're just drinking something you've never heard of, but that's almost never the reality once you awaken to the truth.

Scott Harvey is a pioneer in Amador, having traveled back and forth between the gold hills of California and Rhineland Pfalz in Germany in the mid-1970's. Over the course of three decades he has gilded his relationships with top Amador growers, and some people even credit Scott Harvey with putting the region on the map. He cut his teeth at Montevina and achieved early general manager status at Santino Winery (now Renwood).

Buying a bottle of Zinfandel you don't know, just because it's from Amador County, and expressly because you don't know it, and then having it turn out to be a real find - that's the thrill of the hunt. Especially if your find turns out to be made at a small local "liquor store" in your own neighborhood.

Scott Harvey Amador Mountain Selection Zinfandel 2004 has a nice piercing nose (I didn't say nose piercing!). It's plummy, raspby, lightly cedary, and there's a bit of forest floor earthiness to it, like a walk through Yosemite. The flavor is jammy but the character is deeper than jam, in fact it's deeper than you expect for about $15-20. You get a little of that all-spicy character joining the ample fruit on the tongue, and the finish is dusty, sturdy and yet ready for action right now. (The 2005 is the current vintage in release.)

Once we got around to pairing it with food, the wine was spot on for a natural pork loin chop with an heirloom tomato, sage, and vidalia onion reduction sauce and summer vegetable sauté. The rich natural sweet tart balance of the home grown tomatoes combined seamlessly with the wine.

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

We've come to know Ménage à Trois as a best seller at retail over the years, especially the red. Without apologies, it is now positioned as a red wine for people who normally don't drink much red wine. I must admit it seems to have become a little "watered down" over the past decade. Like many brands that come out of the gate and establish themselves behind a strong marketing premise and an over delivering execution, this one appears to have transitioned to resting squarely on its laurels. Yes, it's quite pleasant, but not as fit as it must have been in years past. The people want soft, and that's what they get. The blend of three, as it were, is dominated by Zinfandel (a la Scott Harvey's invisible hand), plus Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a sweet jam character, plus herbal undertones. The body and backbone are rather light, a good wine to make the transition into drinking dry reds. It has its place in the market to be sure, but there are red blends on much firmer footing for the same price.

Price: $9 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

California Field Blends: Ten Mile Red 2005, Laurel Glen Lodi REDS 2006, Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot 46

In California, before prohibition, wine growers planted their vineyards with mixed varieties, like quilt work. When it came time to harvest, they usually picked them all at the same time, even if all the grapes didn't have the same level of ripeness. And they co-fermented the crush, everything in the vat together. It was easier, and some people continue to say better, to get a blend to come together and reach a more seamless accord.

These "field blends" were Zinfandel dominated, because that was the star grape of the era in California. Other varieties typically found in these blends included Carignane, Petite Sirah (aka Durif), Alicante Bouschet, Peloursin, Syrah, and Barbera. There remain old vineyards, usually with head pruned vines, dotted around California, from Napa and Sonoma to Lodi. Once thought of as Zinfandel plantings, DNA testing has revealed many old Zinfandel vineyards include a supporting cast of other varieties. Each wine farmer planted their own proprietary combination, to produce a more harmonious and rounded end product in the barrel and bottle.

Alicante Bouschet was popular during prohibition because growers believed its thick skin made it a superior grape for transporting by rail to auction rooms in the east.

As an interesting side note, we can thank the White Zinfandel craze that began in the 1970's for preventing many old field blend vineyards from being ripped out in favor of the burgeoning Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay trade.

Now that we can determine what's in a vineyard, co-fermentation is not all that common. Most wines, even those that mimic old fashioned field blends, are picked and fermented in separate lots, then blended just before bottling. That gives the wine maker more degrees of freedom, leaves less up to chance, and it's just the modern way.

Just like Bordeaux blends have stood the test of time, so have these truly American Zinfandel blends. These blends also offer real bang for the buck, giving authentic personality to a casual everyday red wine. These are certainly amazing "spaghetti wines", and also do great justice to a seriously good pizza, anything mesquite grilled, or anything with a southwestern slant to it. And of course, they stand alone equally well.

Let's take a look at three that go beyond making the grade. All 3 of these blends share the same deep purple ruby color, almost opaque. They aren't drastically different in terms of aromas or flavors, either. They're all recommended.

Nine North Wine Co. Ten Mile Red 2005

Nine North Wine Company gives the 2004 vintage composition as 64% Petite Sirah, 18% Zinfandel, 8% Barbera, 8% Malbec and 2% Carignane.

This is the plummiest of the three, with lots of fresh cherry in the nose also. The undertones are spicy, in the direction of a Moroccan spice blend. The fruit is plummy and red on the tongue. You get that dusty structure, and a sense of licorice as the wine finishes.

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Laurel Glen Lodi REDS 2006
Laurel Glen says Reds is comprised of 60% 70-year-old Zinfandel, 30% 116-year-old Carignane and the balance Petite Sirah.

Reds displays a bright raspberry nose from the get-go. You also get some roasted undertones akin to chocolate or mocha, and a hint of ground pepper. The fruit is lush, with more cocoa and pepper evolving on your tongue. The nice dusty (but not overwhelming) structure asserts itself as the wine finishes.

Price: $10 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot 46
Marietta doesn't give out its proprietary blend. Like one's age, sometimes it's best to keep it a secret. They do say the blend is primarily comprised of Zinfandel, with Petite Sirah and Carignane and smaller amounts of Cabernet and Syrah and "various other Italian varietals" rounding out the blend. Is this the most authentic "field blend" of the three?

Old Vine Red is the meatier, that is to say smokier, of the three. It's not overwhelming in the smoke department by any means, but there's more there. There is plenty of fruit in the nose and on the tongue, definitely a Zinfandel-like fusion of raspberry and dark cherry. The flavors are well integrated and it's the "jammiest" of the three. This is the fullest bodied of the 3 wines, with very smooth dusty tannins, and finishing with a touch of vanilla.

Price: $13 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

If I had to rank the 3 wines, it would have to be put in context. None is a clear winner without a frame of reference. They're all recommended. But the Ten Mile Red would be my favorite with spicy food, along the lines of something with Moroccan spice, a curry, or cumin. Reds is my value priced favorite, if I'm on a tight budget, and it's my favorite to drink by itself  or with a piece of dark chocolate or similar dessert. Old Vine Red would be my hands down favorite for spaghetti, pizza, burgers, or most casual cuisine. No wonder every lot of Old Vine Red has been completely allocated since 1978.

If you're thinking about testing these wines with some spaghetti, here's a sauce that's also recommended. Dave's Gourmet Red Heirloom spaghetti sauce is worth looking for. You can buy it online, or discover it as I did, at Marshall's off-price department store. Our heirloom tomatoes aren't ripe yet, so this sauce caught my eye. I like any jar variety spaghetti sauce whose first ingredient is "tomatoes", not "tomato puree". I also like to see a low sugar content (4 grams per serving here), and I like the fat to be olive oil (extra virgin here). You might like it meatless, but we added lean and naturally raised ground beef and some sauteed onions and garlic (to season the meat). Serve it over thin whole wheat spaghetti.