winewaves

The Hunt for October Red

Click for a larger picture of these bottles.

The hunt for October red has turned up a whole lot of alternatives. Here are four to get the week off on the right track. I love them all and have repeated them in search of my favorite. I can't say which is best because they're all top notch, each perfect for the season, and each priced at about $15 or under per bottle. Two are from Spain, continuing on my October theme; one is French and one from Washington State. Perhaps the balance of the month will turn up something from California.

Eric Soloman's European Cellars is an importer many people trust. It's like a seal of approval for any Spanish wine in the eyes of many value conscious Americans. Eric brings us Capçanes Mas Donís Montsant Red 2004 ($15) and Mas Que Vinos Ercavio Tempranillo Roble 2005 ($13). Both are deep purple in the glass, but the Ercavio has more of an unfiltered appearance, showing some haziness under a halogen beam.

Mas Donís 2004 is mostly old-vine Grenache (80% Grenache with 20% Syrah) and has a perfumed black cherry nose with teaberry and hints of pencil lead. The body is medium, the flavor's tart and the mouth feel is moderately tannic. The cherry fruit along with some vanilla flavors come together nicely in the dusty dry finish. The only thing I don't like is the plastic cork. Why must anyone use that blasted plastic cork? Alcohol content: 14%.

Ercavio Tempranillo 2005 spent 5 months in French American oak and has a lovely aroma of black raspberry, loganberry and apple pie spice, plus the scent of a tobacco shop. Lush and fruit forward, this is what I would describe as a masculine comfort wine, and it would pair perfectly with a cheeseburger. The closure is a Nomacork*. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Jean-Philippe Bourgeois was the General Manager for Eric Solomon for 6 years, and now he is bringing French values to the American market. Château Capion 1C Rouge 2005 (Vin de Pays de l'Hérault, $13) is a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and was barrel aged for 14 months. That sounds like a recipe for a great Bordeaux but this gem of a red comes from further south. Still you get the deep purple color and aromas of black currants, dark berries and hints of vanilla. The rich blackberry cobbler flavors envelop the mouth in a far reaching luscious dry finish.

The Magnificent Wine Company is the mass-production wing of K Vintners of Walla Walla, Washington. KV is the project of Charles Smith who brings us such magnificent wines as "The Creator". You might walk right past House Wine 2005 ($11) due to the rather "in your face" and non-standard graphics on the label. You might mistake it for a generic red blend but it's anything but. The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 11% Syrah, 3% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Here's another ideal Bordeaux blend, and the latitiude is virtually the same as Bordeaux. The resulting aromas and flavors are much better than the average house wine, with dark berry flavors and aromas, resolving nicely in to a lush dry finish that echoes the virtues of barrel aging. The closure is a real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

*The Nomacork is a composite resin artificial cork that is similar to the Neocork, but the Nomacork brand is much more popular in terms of units sold.

Red Diamond Washington Merlot 2003

Put out by Stimson Lane,  the parent company of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Erath, Red Diamond's current release is a bountiful and well-crafted Merlot that is hard to touch for the price.

Winemaker Juan Muñoz Oca reports the composition of Red Diamond Merlot 2003 is 94% Merlot and 6% Cab Franc, aged in French and American oak barrels. Oca is from Mendoza and is best known for his generous Columbia Crest reds.

Excellent value ($9). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Style: Fruit forward, lush, with some oak spice.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep cranberry ruby with a slight haze, semi-opaque. Aromas: Cherry, black cherry, plum, redcurrant, and sweet pie spice. Medium bodied, lightly tart with soft tannins, plenty of jammy red fruit is layered over oak spice that evolves in the polished dry finish.

Comment: Keep it a secret. No, on second thought let your friends in on it.

K Vintners The Creator Walla Walla 2003

The fetching label etching featuring "K" vintner Charles Smith on the front, the white plastic sealing "wax" and the heavyweight bottle with its deep punt get your attention. Now that your mind is focused on the wine inside you might see the creator and the origin, Hallelujah!

K Vintners' proprietor Smith managed rock bands in Europe before settling in Walla Walla to make his signature wines. In addition to the cultish Creator, he makes the very popular "House Wine" Red blend which sells for about $10.

The aesthetic works for me. I like black and white, red wine, not to mention the Walla Walla vibe.

The Creator 2003 is 60% En Cerise Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah.

Very nice value ($40). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

Style: Complex, earthy dark fruit and spice with some oak.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple eggplant, opaque. Aromas: Sweet spicy blackcurrant preserve is joined by earth and coffee. There's plenty of body but it's smooth to the touch and just lightly tart. The dark fruit lingers as a modicum of oak spice evolves in the resonating finish.

Comment: If I could afford to I would open this one frequently.

Taj of Cork & Demon Wine Blog got some great pictures of Charles and K Vintners along with a "must check out" interview last May. Go check it out.

Winewaves reviewed House Wine last year.

Januik Winery Columbia Valley Merlot 2004

"Wherever you go, there you are"*, comes to mind with this beautiful "meditative" Merlot which compels you to be in the present moment. In the case of winemaking this idea translates to knowing what every barrel has to offer, and raising each task to the level of art rather than production, which seems to be Winemaker/Proprietor Mike Januik's approach. Great results have been following him for two decades of Washington State winemaking.

Mike Januik is an artisan winemaker with a large scale winemaking background. As the Head Winemaker with Chateau Ste. Michelle for 10 years he expanded his repertoire, developed relationships with the best Washington State winegrowers, and started Ste. Michelle's single vineyard program. His desire to be more creative led him to open Januik Winery in 1999 and make wines in the hundreds of cases, not thousands. Januik is also Consulting Winemaker for Novelty Hill which is scheduled to open their new winery in Woodinville (Seattle suburb) in spring 2007.

Januik Columbia Valley Merlot 2004 is 89% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cab Franc, sourced from some highly-esteemed Columbia Valley Vineyards including Conner Lee, Ciel du Cheval (translation: Horse Heaven), Klipsun (translation: Sunset) and Alder Ridge. Aging of the lots was about 18 months in mostly new French oak barrels. Cases produced: 1041.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby with a slight haze, translucent. Aromas: Black cherry, chocolate, cinnamon/spice, and long aged rye whiskey. The mouth feel is voluptuous, smooth and polished with perfectly balanced tannins and acidity. The richly layered flavors include cherry and darker fruit notes supported by buttery oak spice, chocolate and citrus rind. The finish is warm and lingers like a friend you want to spend the night with.

Excellent value ($23).  Closure: Real cork.  Alcohol content: 14.4%.

Winewaves reviewed Novelty Hill 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon and named it one of the top reds of the year for 2006.

*"Wherever You Go, There You Are: Mindfulness Meditation in Everyday Life", a book which explores the practice of meditation was written by Jon Kabat-Zinn in the 1990s and is available in paperback at Amazon.

Bergevin Lane Columbia Valley Cabernet Franc 2004

Cabernet Franc could be called "the fifth dimension" as it is often used in France along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec for classic Bordeaux blends. Here standing almost alone, the overall impression is fruit-forward, just enough different and complex to stimulate good conversation, and gone-in-a-flash delicious.

Not all that different from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc is purported to be one of its parents (along with Sauvignon Blanc). Compared with Cabernet Sauvignon, it's a thinner skinned grape, and when its personality is most evident, it makes wines that are a bit lighter in tannins, fruitier, and a bit more herbal.

In Washington State, Cab Franc is happy and thrives due to its early to bud and early to harvest nature. It usually shows up in red blends, but occasionally makes an appearance as the belle of the ball.

Amber Lane and Annette Bergevin decided to give Cabernet Franc 2004 its time in the sun and bottled a mere 200 cases of this 89% Cab Franc, 11% Merlot sourced from Alder Ridge and Spring Creek Vineyards. Aging was mostly French oak barrels (90%, with 8% American and 2% Eastern European) and they used almost a third new oak to showcase the fruit's star quality.

Alder Ridge is well managed and ideally located 800+ acre property about 15 miles west of Paterson, sitting up 400-90+ feet above the Columbia River and facing south. Spring Creek Vineyards location is in the Red Mountain AVA near Benton City.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple cranberry with a medium haze, semi-opaque. Aromas: Black raspberry, cherry, citrus rind, cassia/spice and caramelized oak. The mouthfeel is politely firm and polished and overall medium-bodied. Cherry cola flavors plus some citrus rind and herbal characteristics lead to a lively dry finish that manages to kick out a bit of oak.

Very nice value: $34. Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.2%

Winewaves recently reviewed Bergevin Lane's Calico Red 2004, a blend including Cab Franc. There are additional details about the winery included in that review.

Powers Winery Champoux Vineyard Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001

On my second trip to Vino Volo at the Seattle Tacoma Airport, my first flight was Columbia Valley Cabernets*, which included this find. Tasty it was, and my favorite of the three wines even though priced lowest. Unbeknownst to me, the wine was made from some very pedigreed grapes.

Bill Powers is on the short list of those with access to fruit from the Champoux Vineyard in Horse Heaven Hills, five miles from the Columbia River. That list includes the likes of Quilceda Creek, Andrew Will and Soos Creek, all of whom produce highly in demand and powerful Cabs from Champoux Vineyard grapes.

Powers has lived in Washington State most of his life, and started out as an orchard grower about 50 years ago. In the 1980s he switched to grapes and planted Badger Mountain Vineyard. He was joined by his son Greg in 1982 and then by partner Tim DeCook in 1983. Badger Mountain went organic in the late 1980s, and today that label produces all organic wines, some with no sulfites added, and are widely considered some of the healthiest wines on the market.

Bill and his son Greg also produce wines under the Powers Winery label which are not made from organic grapes. The Powers label gives them the opportunity to work with other growers and properties like Paul and Judy Champoux and their 35-year-old vineyard.

The 2001 vintage was Winemaker Greg Powers' first vintage for Champoux Vineyard Reserve Cabernet, and it was a great year to start out with. Powers did not hurry to get this Cab to market, aging the lots separately and only assembling final blend in 2005, then placing the cuvee into new French oak barrels for 9 months longer. Finally satisfied that it was ready, Powers bottled it in May 2006. Cases produced: 750.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby, semi-opaque. Aromas: Pungent sweet cherry, plum and cassis liqueur is joined by caramelized oak and spicy vanilla. The body is medium to full and nicely rounded off from the passing of time. Spicy and oaky dry on the tongue, the cherry pie, vanilla and hints of sweet basil echo nicely in the warm finish.

Excellent value: $23. Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Food pairing: Pan-seared New York Strip steak.

*The other two excellent wines in the Columbia Valley Cabernets flight were: Basel Cellars Old Vine Cabernet 2004 ($36/bottle) and Woodward Canyon Artist Series #12 Cabernet 2003 ($45/bottle). Before enjoying this flight, I warmed up with the Yakima Valley Whites flight, which included three beauties: Kestrel Old Vine Chardonnay 2005 ($27/bottle), Wilridge Elephant Mountain Vineyard Viognier 2005 ($21/bottle), and Kana Elerding Vineyard Rousanne 2003 ($23/bottle). All showed well but the Kestrel Chardonnay was my favorite.

Whitman Cellars Walla Walla Narcissa Red 2003

Ask about the story of Narcissa Whitman, the namesake of Whitman Cellars' red blend, and you know you're in for a serious wine. The "W" on the bottle stands for Whitman, the brave and idealistic young couple Marcus and Narscissa who traveled west to set up a Christian mission amongst the Cayuse people in the 1830s, only to be killed before their time.

Marcus' wife Narcissa was one of the first women to cross the Rocky Mountains and make it to Walla Walla. Along with their religious ideals, the Whitman's unfortunately brought disease with them, and their pathology wiped out the children of the Cayuse. So it was a matter of survival for the locals that the Whitman's be killed and the buildings of their mission destroyed.

This is just the kind of story that inspires strength and perseverance, and the story has resonated in the area ever since.

In 1927, Banker W.W. Baker paid homage to the Whitman's and spearheaded the effort to build the Marcus Whitman Hotel in downtown Walla Walla, by far the most luxurious (and sturdy) hotel around. After years of negligence, the Whitman Hotel was renovated before the turn of the last century and now stands a proud boutique property in the now trendy W2.

About the same time the Whitman Hotel was reborn, Whitman Cellars Winery (unrelated to the hotel) was born. Stephen Lessard, who preceded Pete Hedges as Head Winemaker at Hedges Cellars, was brought in to lead winemaking efforts at Whitman Cellars in 2002. In the 1990s Lessard worked under the renowned Warren Winiarski at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars in Napa Valley before moving north where he became known for big classic age worthy reds from Washington fruit.

Whitman's Narcissa Red 2003 is 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, 8% Merlot and 5% cabernet Franc, sourced from Walla Walla Valley, aged 18 months in French and American oak barrels. Cases produced: 2180.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby with bright purple edges, translucent. Aromas: Blackberry, cherry, sweet spice, mocha, hints of forest and cold blossoms. Bold and full-bodied, rich and layered with plenty of tart tannic structure, pepper and oak spice frame the ripe black and red fruit, cocoa, bourbon and citrus rind flavors. The finish is rolling and chalky dry.

Excellent value ($24).   Closure: Real cork.   Alcohol content: 13.8%

Chatter Creek Lonesome Spring Ranch Syrah 2005

Warm your heart and soul with a good bass line and a glass of true artisan made Syrah. This is the sort of wine that could take the chill off a trout fishing trip on Chatter Creek.

Chatter Creek Winery proprietor and Winemaker "Gordy" Rawson was looking for a sense of security when he made the jump from musician and sound engineer to wine delivery driver in his home town of Seattle. One thing led to another and his nose eventually landed him the Cellar master job working for David Lake at Columbia Winery. A self-taught winemaker with a sensational palate, Rawson is content to build his own winery one barrel at a time with an eye on the long haul.

What Gordy lacked in financial backing he made up for in tenacity, intelligence and grass roots networking, and after ten years making wine commercially, he recently opened his small Woodinville winery and tasting room. Finally out of his Seattle garage, his production is now up to about 2,000 cases annually and slowly climbing. So is his reputation for hand crafted wines which capture Washington State terroir from a true local's point of view.

That's a stylized version of a Madrona tree located in Lincoln Park in Seattle that adorns his Chatter Creek labels, designed by friend and product label designer Chris Roberts. Madrona trees are broadleaf evergreens which seem most at home in the islands around Seattle.

The name Chatter Creek goes back to the days when Gordy and his Father fished in the namesake creek that feeds the Icicle and Wenatchee Rivers near Leavenworth, Washington's "Bavarian Village" in the Eastern Cascade Mountains. The Rawsons fished for trout using "eggs and bobber".

Lonesome Spring Syrah 2005 reflects Rawson's artisan style, to work with the highest quality fruit in Washington State, take a light handed approach when it comes to oak and allow the terroir to show, and produce in small batches. The 100% Syrah was sourced from the Yakima Valley appellation, specifically the Benton City "Lonesome Spring Ranch" vineyard owned by Colin and Ann Morrell. The oak is one and two-year-old and neutral French barrels he buys from Quilceda Creek. The 2005 is very current and limited, with 50 cases already released and the remaining 350 cases immediately forthcoming.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Somewhat inky purple cranberry with a nice haze, semi-opaque. Aromas: Black and blue berry plus background notes of nutmeg/spice, bacon fat, earth and faint wafts of roasted cocoa beans. Rich and youthfully firm on the tongue with nice acidity and some spice, the chewy purple-blue fruit and roasted nutty flavors finish warm and dry.

Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.8%

What's next for Chatter Creek? Rawson has been slowly aging a Nebbiolo (a la Barolo style) for almost 3 years and soon it will be ready. He is working with his wife and a friend on an Orange Muscat, and he will return to making sparkling wine. Bubbly was his first commercial product back in the 1990's, labeled under the "Alexia" name. Rawson stopped making Alexia and changed his label when he lost a court challenge over the use of the Alexia name by the Alexi Vodka brand. Prior to this financially draining experience, Rawson's sparkling wines were considered critically successful.

Paul Gregutt, wine columnist for the Seattle Times is a fan of Chatter Creek wines, and he did a piece on Gordon Rawson in February 2006, including a picture of Gordy by photographer Barry Wong.

Harlequin Cellars Jester's Red 2004: WBW#30

Explore the contrast of wealth and comedy as offered up to your hedonistic side by Robert Goodfriend's family-run Harlequin Cellars. The "ancient" acclaimed writer of "fu", Sima Xiangru, a hedonist who was the favorite court poet to Han Emperor Wu is quoted on the back label, encouraging us to delight in the jesters.

Apparently before he became Wu's wordsmith and gained wealth, court poet Xiangru also was involved in the retail wine business. (Xiangru lived from 179-117 BC.) This old world reference is a nice foil to Jester's Red, a definitively new world Syrah-based red blend from Wahluke Slope Washington. This affordable rich and fun red is definitely worthy of recommendation for the February 2007 edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday hosted by Tim Elliot at Winecast: New World Syrah.

Proprietor/Winemaker Goodfriend is chief bottle washer and emperor of the small 2800 case production winery. Multitasking is the norm for the early-rising Goodfriend, having gotten started in wine after 15 years as a successful chef and restaurateur. He apprenticed beginning in 1992 at California's Central Coast Wild Horse, then in 1995 moved to Oregon to work with Pinot Noir at Silvan Ridge. A "fortuitous trip to Seattle" led Robert to meet his future bride, Elizabeth. The couple gave birth to Harlequin Wine Cellars. In 2003 Harlequin relocated to near Walla Walla, specifically Touchet (pronounced "TOO-SHE"), where Goodfriend shares space with and is Managing Partner of Latitude 46°N Winery.

Goodfriend also makes a single vineyard Oregon Pinot Noir, Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay (from some of the oldest vines in Washington State), Syrah, Viognier and two Bordeaux blends.

As if that hasn't kept him busy enough, Goodfriend is a tireless promoter, and helped get The Tasting Room off the ground in Pike's Place Market in Seattle, and his winery ventures are a part of the core group who participate.

Harlequin Jester's Red 2004 is 87% Syrah, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, all sourced from Clifton Vineyard, a 500-acre property owned by the Millbrandt family. Aging was an average of 11 months in 95% French and 5% American oak barrels, about 15% new. Cases produced: 623.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep purple cranberry garnet with a nice haze, semi-opaque. Aromas: Black raspberry, blueberry, caramelized oak, white chocolate and nutmeg/pie spice. On the tongue the feeling is sweet tart and warming with gentle but masculine tannic structure. The juicy cherry berry flavors harmonize with plenty of young toasty oak and echo in the dusty dry finish.

Outstanding value ($15). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

Food pairing: Southern beef pot roast with caramelized vegetables.

By the way, the Northwest wine guru Paul Gregutt, Wine Advisor and Columnist with the Seattle Times has been a good friend of Goodfriend's wines, and recently placed both Harlequin and Latitude 46°N wines on his top 100 of 2006 list.

Bergevin Lane Vineyards Calico Red 2004

Calico Red isn't an ordinary tame pussycat. She has a strong personality and will cozy up to her keepers but also keep the strays out of the yard.

Bergevin Lane is a relatively young story, an early indication of the influx of the hip Californian and beyond crowd who are following global warming north to the new hot spot in wine, Walla Walla. Talk about quirk, in Walla-squared you will find everything from a good old fashioned hotel to a real drug store on the square to boutique wineries and citified bistros. Walla Walla was abuzz in wheat 100 years ago and is again in grapes, and best of all, there is still some real un-retouched charm left to enjoy here.

I heard about Bergevin Lane at Backstage Bistro in DTW2 (Downtown Walla Walla) while noshing almost alone on some incredible cedar plank salmon this past last Tuesday night of January. The winery of two women is a "must" stop I was told. Unfortunately I was on a short leash and had to high-tail it out of town the next morning, but I spotted their Calico at Pete's in Seattle and their rare Cab Franc at Vino Volo in Sea-Tac Airport and brought them home. There will be a return trip to W2, soon if I have anything to do with it.

Proprietors Annette Bergevin & Amber Lane opened their doors in 2001, and moved into their modern industrial winery building in 2003. The Bergevin Lane partners have annealed relationships with growers in top vineyards in Walla Walla, Wahluke Slope, Horse Heaven Hills and other catbird seats in Columbia Valley. The counterpoint masculine touch is imparted by Annette's father Gary Bergevin, founding partner of Canoe Ridge, new winemaker Steffan Jorgensen and consultant Gordy Hill.

Bergevin Lane Calico Red 2004 reflects the personality of its lucky female proprietors and is credited to former Bergevin Lane winemaker Virginie Bourgue who recently left to marry Andrew Lodmell and make Lodmell Cellars wine. Calico is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel and Cab Franc. Only 2500 cases of this cuvee were produced, sourced from the likes of the Alder Ridge, Stone Tree, Les Collines and Lonesome Spring Ranch vineyards to name a few. Aging of lots included French, American and Neutral oak barrels.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep candy apple red with bright cherry edges, translucent. Aromas: Pungent mixed red to black berry and currant essences merge with espresso and masculine oak spice. Very young, sturdy and warming with substantial tannins, the brambly, peppery and ample syrupy fruit combine with cedary oak flavor in a kick of a finish.

Excellent value ($18). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.3%

Food pairing: Drink up with a great sandwich such as a Boar's Head black forest turkey and Vermont white cheddar on toasted whole wheat; but you could also go anywhere with this red blend.