winewaves

Out in the West Texas Town of El Paso: Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2006

It's a long way across Texas, even by air. But, in an attempt to turn over a new leaf and get going early, I made it from Nashville to El Paso, via San Antonio, by high noon. After an afternoon of work and squeezing my jump rope session in to the late afternoon blazing sun, it was time to go in search of something local to eat. Out on the west side of El Paso, near the mall and my hotel suite, I decided on The Greenery Cafe and Market. The reviews on Trip Advisor, once all thumbs up, appear to be slipping, but convenience won out and there I went for a take out and a bottle of wine.

Yuppie was the word that came to mind as I browsed the bottles and other goods at the Greenery Market. The Tuesday night staff was hoping I would choose something so they could get on with their closing routine. I did. I ordered Tacos Al Carbon over at the cafe, to go of course. After all, why not take advantage of that funky cool two level suite the I got upgraded to over at the Holiday Inn? After some deliberation, I went with a Rioja as my bottle of wine - to last me my two nights' stay. Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2006 turned out to be a really nice choice for the mood and food.

You know the story of Rioja because that's the name everyone is familiar with when it comes to Spanish reds. Rioja is northern Spain, and Tempranillo is really popular there. Rioja can be really fresh, fruity, and sort of light, like La Vendimia, or it can be really heavy, oaky and some say, leathery, if you choose a higher priced Reserva that saw years of aging in the barrel.

Alvario Palacios is the brash young perfectionist who took over Palacios Remondo in Rioja after his father died. He since has modernized and La Vendimia is one of his products aimed at the new world. Based on the promise of excellent local low-yield vines, it is styled for drinking right away. Vendimia translates to "harvest", and this is Alvario's statement of the versatile potential of young Rioja.

The blend is 50/50 Tempranillo and Garnacha. Aging in oak is brief, just 4 months in 70% French oak, the remainder American. The wine was fined but not filtered.

You will pick up on the ripe red fruit here, a lot of cherry and perhaps strawberry. That sounds like a Pinot Noir, and you might substitute La Vendimia for a Pinot Noir. You could chill it a bit, but I was in too much of a hurry to wait. There is also a "garrigue" character to it, a combined sense of unbridled herbs and rocks. The oak comes across in the nose as a slight expresso note. On the tongue, the wine is a bit spicier and not as silky smooth as many Pinot Noirs, which I mention as a positive. It's not a Pinot Noir, it's a Rioja, and it has its own personality, regardless of the temptation to pigeon-hole it. The finish kicks out just a bit of vanilla.

Price: $15 (El Paso). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

As for The Greenery, I would rate it a thumbs up. The take-out order from the Cafe, consisting of Tacos Al Carbon, was overly generous, and it stood the test of time - the time it took to get back to my hotel room and go get the wine opened at the hotel bar. The beef was truly prime quality, tender and tasty. The trimmings were a cut above expectations. The establishment itself is impressively clean and uncluttered for a mall location. The Greenery Market is next door to the Cafe. I can't deny my roots as a Yuppie, having gotten my MBA in the 1980's, and I still own a 1987 BMW 3-series. This market might appeal to everyone, but a Yup will find it irresistable. Expect a nicely chosen wine selection, lots of chocolate, coffee, tea, nuts, dried fruits, sandwiches to go, olive oils, and all the things we can't leave home without. To whom it may concern, they even had Orin Swift's Prisoner and Grateful Palate's Bitch in stock. Who knew El Paso is so civilized?

San Diego Wine Company

With only 24 hours in San Diego on this trip, and business in Otay Mesa, San Marcos and downtown, plus eating, sleeping and airport arrival time, that left me only about a half an hour to find a case of value-oriented wines. A little upfront web research revealed the place to stop, right along my route from San Marcos back to the harbor area.  San Diego Wine Company was the place.

I emailed Matt Francke (pictured below), the new owner as of a year ago, and he assured me there would be no problem choosing a mixed case in a hurry and getting them packed in a shipping box ready for checking as baggage. Less than a week prior to Christmas, amid the crowd, Matt and the staff accommodated my requests cheerfully, right down to my fussy need to have bottles whose seams did not run through the labels (seams can mess up a label picture).

This is the type of wine shop I look for, the perfect place for a Winewaves "random walk".  There are no wine racks, only case stackers and wooden boxes overflowing with the best values in the market today.  There is nothing expected; and according to Matt, the selection is ever changing.  Do not expect to walk in and pick up the standard fare, but do expect to get a deal on some wines you need to know about.  It is rare that a guy my age feels like a kid in a candy store but I did.

The San Diego Wine Company is a no-nonsense retail outlet located in a warehouse park on Eastgate Mall, 15 minutes north of the San Diego downtown waterfront.  Matt Francke worked for seven years as Assistant Manager before seizing the opportunity to purchase the store from the previous owner and he has not missed a step in the transition.  There are no frills, just fun.  There are no bar code scanners or sophisticated inventory management systems, because it's all in Matt's head.  Together with his staff of Mark, Daniel and Shane, they taste every wine before it gets in the back door and onto the floor.  They take the concept of QPR (quality-price-ratio) to a new level.  With a relatively small (approximately 5,000+ square foot) space, long and narrow, only wines with the potential for turning in a heartbeat make the cut.  That means buying in volume at the best price, with no promises about future buys, and pricing their finds with a razor thin margin.  You could drink very well and never spend more than $10 a bottle here.

Case in point: The very excellent Avalon Napa Cab that Winewaves just reviewed cost nearly a third less here than the best price I found in Nashville.  Similar deals abounded.  What's more, the staff's tasting notes are posted all around, and every member of the staff knows every wine and can quickly steer you in the right direction for your tastes.

The selection is slanted towards California reds, but there are plenty of eclectic selections from other parts of the world, including Bordeaux (they offer great deals on 2005 futures as well), sparkling wines and Champagne, white wines (especially Chardonnay), and wines from Spain, Australia, Chile and more.

I am thinking about using a Southwest Airlines Rapid Rewards coupon and Priority Club rewards night for a return trip to San Diego, just to buy more wine here.  Who would have guessed this store would turn out to be one of the best attractions in the area.

My case came to $162.23, including the $8 Styrofoam shipping container and sales tax.  All the wines ranged from $4.99 to $16.95 except the one bottle I had to have, the Orin Swift "Prisoner" 2005.  This bottle has been on my shopping list ever since I had a glass of the '04 at the Rutherford Grill in Napa Valley last year, and I was happy to get it for $29.95.

Here's what made it home to Nashville, all of them reds: Poppy Monterey Pinot Noir 2005 ($10), Abundance Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel 2003 ($10), Fuentespina Ribera del Duero Tempranillo 2003 ($5), La Planta Ribera del Duero Tempranillo 2005 ($10), St. George Sonoma Cab 2004 ($7), Tobin James Notorious Paso Cab 2004 ($14), Semler Malibu Cab 2003 ($17), Orin Swift Napa The Prisoner ($30), Kings Ridge Oregon Pinot Noir 2004 ($13), Mas Neuf Costieres de Nimes Red 2004 ($8), Ch. Anglade-Bellevue Cotes de Blaye 2000 ($10), and Huntington California Petite Sirah 2005 ($9).

I asked Matt if anybody is ever disappointed by the SDWC's shopping environment.  "If you're looking for the antithesis of us, if you need to see expensive store fixtures and predictable labels, this isn't going to be your kind of store."  Something tells me Matt really enjoys his job. Thanks for the hospitality.

Vino Volo (Wine Flight) Small Bites at Sea-Tac Airport

How civilized!  Vino Volo is a new concept for the airport, offering wine flights, small bites, carry-out gourmet, carry-on ready bottles of wine, gifts and accessories.

I almost missed my flight from Seattle-Tacoma to Boise when I settled into this outpost and became too comfortable, enjoying three wine flights and a plate of delicious smoked salmon rolls with crabmeat, radish sprouts and crème fraîche.  Joe LaPanna, New Store Opening Manager says that is pretty common.  In fact, Joe told me Vino Volo patrons have been known to switch to a later flight in order to hang out at the wine bar a little longer.

Seattle-Tacoma is location number two in the up-and-coming chain which began with the first store at Dulles International Airport (Washington DC).  The Dulles store opened back in September, and the Sea-Tac location opened around November 1st.  LaPanna reports there are plans for more Vino Volo locations, with Sacramento, JFK and BWI (Baltimore-Washington) coming very soon.

It's about time.  Finally there is an alternative to the typical noisy crazy chain restaurant and its predictable low-end wines and pedestrian dishes.

Leaning to minimalism, the interior is crisp and clean like high-thread-count white cotton sheets, with just enough luxurious rich wood and very comfortable seating.  The lighting is excellent.  The people are professional and knowledgeable.  Each store has a relatively short list of well-chosen wines and wine flights, which rotate every six weeks.  The offerings are tailored to the region, with the Sea-Tac location specializing in hard-to-find yet affordable Washington State selections.  The Dulles location actually has a Virginia flight as well as selections tailored to the east coast traveler.

The food menu is also nicely short.  You won't have to wonder what is good, because if it's on the menu, it's good. Vino Volo uses local caterers for each store, scrutinized carefully.  In addition to the Salmon Rolls ($10), other small bites on this visit included plates of Artisan Cured Meats ($9), Chilled Seafood Paella ($8), Duck Confit and Lentil Salad ($12), Tuscan Chicken Sandwich ($8), Beecher's Ziti and Cheese ($8), Artisanal Cheese Plate ($9), Olive Plate ($5) and Roasted Marcona Almonds ($5).  Everything on the food menu is available to go.

There is a nice selection of maybe 50 wines by the bottle, priced attractively, well-chosen to represent the world, and because the store is beyond security you can take these bottles on the plane with you.

Wine flights are three pours (except the Sommelier Series which is two), about two ounces each pour, served in high-quality stems.  At Sea-Tac, you can select from four Washington State flights and four World flights.  The three Washington State flights I went for were "Washington Kings" ($10), "Christmas Cabernets" ($13) and "Winery Showcase: Alexandria Nicole ($9).  There really wasn't a wine in all nine that wasn't up to par.

If you're in the mood for the World flights, they consisted of: Sommelier Series, a two pour flight including Caymus Special Select Cab 2003 and Chateau Latour a Pomerol 2001 ($23), World Value Reds ($7), Northwest Noirs ($11) and Celebration Sparklers ($12).

Knowing I had to go through security once more before returning to Nashville, I held back and purchased two bottles I was really impressed with, with plans to check them through after my next stop in Boise.  Look for upcoming Winewaves reviews of Ash Hollow Walla Walla Merlot 2003 ($25) and Alexandria Nicole Quarry Butte Red Blend 2004 ($25).

Applejack Wine & Spirits Denver

My brother Jeff and I flew into Denver last week, and drove up through Wyoming into South Dakota, where we immersed ourselves in the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally for a day.  We were there to promote Diamond Gusset Jeans, which Jeff co-founded, and which are popular with Harley riders.  But before heading up to Deadwood, we stopped at Applejack.

Applejack has evolved to be the biggest wine and liquor store around.  The original store was geographically well-placed by visionary founder Herb Becker along the route to the ski resorts.  It was then purchased by alcohol beverage retailer pioneer (& current CEO) Alan Freis, who moved it into the current building in 1974 and has expanded it several times.  Now, together with son-in-law Jim Shpall, they have created a store that is buzzing even at 10 in the morning, and the action just gets busier from there.  A dull moment at Applejack is rare. The employees work hard for the money, moving a lot of cases.

Wine selection is beyond extensive.  The layout is good for a large store.  The case displays are at the front, and you don't even have to go back into the aisles to find plenty of choices that are current.  Back in the aisles there are extensive selections from all parts of the world, including impressive depth in Italian reds and Bordeaux.

A couple of years ago, Alan Freis himself was the first person to say hello when I came in.  He said then that he enjoys being on the floor, which having his son-in-law Jim in the business allows him to do.

The prices are very good, but you cannot use your plastic to pay - cash only.  Still, I purchased three wines to be reviewed here soon.  Because of the new air travel restrictions, I had to put the bottles in my checked luggage.  Thankfully, they made it home intact.  No interior pictures were allowed.

Total Wine & More Expansion Continues

"The competition is fierce in Florida. The owners are very tight about information. I can't let you take any pictures in the store." -Total Wine's Tampa (Dale Mabry) Store Manager.

Total Wine & More comes across as protective about their approach to wine retailing, which appears to be working well. Total's large "wine supermarkets" already dot the east coast, each positioned between grocery stores, big box retailers, and traditional wine stores.

Founded by the Trone brothers, David and Robert, Total Wine now also employs brothers Thomas and John Trone. The Trones and their staff are well educated, with many MBA and other advanced degrees. The Trones began with one existing 1000 square foot store in Claymont, Delaware. They quickly learned the lessons of wine retailing and developed their plans for a new kind of wine store. In 2004, sales topped $300 million in 35 stores, a respectable $8+ million per location.

The billboard over the newly opened Tampa store advertises Total's biggest competitor in the area, ABC, which has a much smaller store across and just up the street.

Florida has been the most recent state Total has entered, making waves in Tampa, Fort Myers and Fort Lauderdale.  Winewaves recently visited three Total Wine locations: Tampa, Raleigh (Brier Creek), and McLean, Virginia.

From the outside, Total Wine fits into any "big box" retail development. Locations average about 20,000 square feet. Neon channel letter signage, lots of glass, and easy parking invite you to shop. The Tampa location was freestanding, the Raleigh store was in a new strip center, and the McLean store was previously a grocery store.

Inside, store manager and wine manager booths are near the entrance. Copies of circulars and Total's free magazine are available just inside the door.

Ceilings are high, and aisles run front to back. Wine is displayed in case boxes, on shelves standing up, and laying down in bins. Aisles are wide, with shelves tall enough that you cannot see over them. This supermarket approach makes it hard to spot a wine consultant in another aisle.

Lighting is good throughout, with higher priced wines typically displayed under spot halogen lamps on higher shelves.

Aisles are laid out and labeled in multiple arrays. You can shop by varietal, country of origin, wine style (e.g. "light dry red" or "rich white"), new items, best selling items, staff recommendations, and specially featured. Most wines are displayed in multiple places in the store, so you won't overlook anything.

You'll find a lot of labels you may have never heard of. Total refers to these as "previously unsigned" or "winery direct" labels. There are very well known labels in stock, but they don't seem as obvious here. Shelf talker cards are used liberally to "talk up" the new and winery direct labels. No doubt, the labels unique to Total Wine contribute a lot to a successful store. Total buys these wines at pricing which delivers superior margins, and these "proprietary" labels are not subject to neighborhood price wars.

With the explosion of wine labels and information, the consumer appears to be open to new labels and willing to spend $6-$20 on unknown quantities.

There are differences between the locations. Florida stores sell liquor. The McLean store was larger, stocked many more French wines, and offered free tasting on Saturday. The Raleigh store was a bit smaller with fewer labels.

Total Wine employs wineaccess.com as the platform for its store websites. While unexciting, you can place an order for pickup using the site, even in areas which prevent online sales.

The Total Wine approach isn't everything for everybody. The overall presentation is simply not as much fun or as visually stimulating as some other large wine stores. And Total can seem a bit overly predictable. Also, the "& More" part of the merchandising mix lacks "critical mass".  But if you're willing to try new wine labels, and don't want to spend a lot for the average bottle, you'll probably like Total Wine. Those seeking more familiar labels or looking for a treasure hunt wine experience might discover Total Wine doesn't replace their favorite store.

Byron's Warehouse Oklahoma City Oklahoma

The State Capital isn't the only landmark located just off Interstate 235 along NW 23rd Street in Oklahoma City. Byron's continues to be a hub of wine activity after four decades in business. Located in the shadow of I-235's bridges, Byron's offers a large wine selection, good prices, and no frills.

Byron's overhead is low. You won't find high ceilings, carpets, and recessed lighting.  This isn't a sterile big box shopping experience. Wine Associate Kent Deewall is pictured (above) keeping tabs on stock and the condition of displays.

This doesn't seem to be a place for chance meetings or conversation. This store has a market feel, a place to get busy and buy, then move on.

My goal was to pick up an eclectic selection of a half dozen new-to-me wines, about $10-$20, that would be checked as baggage back to Nashville. This was just one stop in a busy day of assignments, so time was short.  It wasn't easy to narrow it down, as usual.

Byron's is an Oklahoma institution which shouldn't be missed.

Just-reviewed Agapito Rico Carchelo Jumilla Monastrell 2004 was among my purchases, and the others are soon to be reviewed.

See the entire photo album including Byron's Warehouse, the State Capital, and other images from Oklahoma City, taken on February 28, 2006.

Address: 2322 N. Broadway, Oklahoma City, OK 73103
Phone: 405-525-2158. Website: http://www.byronsliquor.com

Pete's Supermarket Seattle Washington

The I-5 traffic heading south into Seattle was heavy as usual at 5 pm Wednesday, so my rental car took the Boylston Avenue exit and headed down Lynn Street towards Lake Union. There stands Pete's, the neighborhood supermarket turned wine destination I'd read about.

The local buzz is Pete's has great prices, and right away it was apparent, this is true. Case in point: Hedges 3 Vineyards Red was $5 less than at an area Safeway.

For an hour or so, I enjoyed the atmosphere, engaged in some winespeak and compared travel notes with Joel, the resident wine expert and world traveler, and met two new friends who were from the South, like myself.

My goal was to pick up a half dozen Washington reds and a shipping box that could be checked as baggage for my flight back to Nashville. No problem here, except for limiting my choices. The receipt from my wine purchases says "over 1000 wines". The store isn't that big, but the wines are there, crammed into every available space, making for a "treasure hunt" layout. The inventory includes lots of Washington labels beyond the usual names, as well as impressive labels from the world over, including Bordeaux. Very tough work, narrowing it down to six wines.

Once again ready for the I-5 crawl, my rental car headed back up Lynn Street, turned right and merged into the still heavy but now moving freeway.

Two bottles of just-reviewed Bonaire Yakima Cab were among my purchases, and the others are soon to be reviewed.

Address: 58 East Lynn Street (at Fairview Avenue), Seattle, Washington 98102
Phone: 206-322-2660. Website: http://www.petes.cc
Note: Pete's does ship where legal, which unfortunately does not include Tennessee.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #18: Turkey Creek Wine & Spirits in Knoxville, Tennessee

It seems that wine is a ubiquitous subject these days, and a wine glass can be seen in the hands of tons of celebrities and "baby boomers". No surprise, existing wine shops are constantly "raising the bar", and new ones open every day. So it was very fitting that Dr. Vino host this month's Wine Blogging Wednesday, with the theme: "wine shops that feel the love".

Jerry travels a lot, and because he provides website and email marketing services for Frugal MacDoogal Wine Warehouse in his home base of Nashville, the decision was made to profile a relatively new wine store in Knoxville, Tennessee.  Turkey Creek Wine & Spirits is located in Knoxville's Western suburbs, just off I-40, near the Campbell Station Road (Farragut) exit.

Turkey Creek isn't the biggest store, with about 10-12,000 square feet, but the emphasis on wine and the upbeat vibe is something to love. On this visit, the people were friendly, knowledgeable, and "into" their product. There were plenty of "new-to-me" selections to take back home to Nashville.

There are a variety of display techniques employed, as well as attractive lighting and neon signage inside.  Take note of the "In Vino Veritas" neon sign, which has the translation under it: "In Wine There Is Truth".

Bottles lay flat, are staged in the round, stand up, and get cozy under halogen lighting.

What's more, their prices are very attractive for Tennessee, where taxes are high and competition is thwarted by laws that don't allow chain stores to sell wine.

Within the past week, Winewaves has posted 3 wines purchased at Turkey Creek, and several upcoming posts will feature wines from there as well.  Check previous posts on: Ménage à Trois Rosé, Soirée Oregon Pinot Noir, and El Coto Rosé.

When in the Knoxville area, do drop in to Turkey Creek Wine & Spirits.