winewaves

Chateau De Combebelle St. Chinian Changes Hands

The new Combebelle label pictured above came to Winewaves from Catherine Wallace. Catherine and partner Patrick Keohane bought Domaine de Combebelle in December 2005. Winewaves reviewed the 2000 vintage of Combebelle's Syrah-Grenache in January, 2007, and incorrectly attributed current ownership of the property to Robert Eden. Eden was owner at the time that wine was made.

Wallace and Keohane are continuing with the 10 year history of biodynamics on the property. They will release a new Vin De Pays Rose in May of this year, and a white wine from contract grown fruit soon after. Current plans also include planting Roussanne and Marsanne in 2008 as well as Cinsault and Carignan in the future.

In describing their purchase of the property from Robert Eden, Wallace states, "I am living my dream of one day owning a vineyard in France and making wines in a region I fell in love with many years ago now! I knew from a fairly young age (8 or 9 years old) that I would one day become a vigneronne and a Master of Wine.  I have succeeded with the former and am working on the latter!"

Wallace is the principal winemaker and favors an approach which expresses the unique terroir. Wallace and Keohane are currently in talks with stateside importers to bring their new label to the U.S. soon. A summary of the change of ownership as provided by Wallace may be downloaded by clicking here.

The previous Robert Eden label is pictured (right - click the image for a larger version), or click here view the recent review of the 2000 vintage Combebelle Syrah Grenache.

Quince Upon A Time

At one time or another we come across tasting notes which reference the quince. Usually this fruit comes up in reference to a white wine, typically a Sauvignon Blanc, a Fumé Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc with some time in the barrel), a Chenin Blanc or possibly even a chardonnay.

This fruit is better known in the U.K. where it is used to make jams that show up for afternoon tea.  But they are becoming more popular in the states as a sign of good taste.  There is even an oft reviewed restaurant in San Francisco by the same name.  The quince fruit grows on small deciduous trees native to warm Asian climates. Most are really too hard and bitterly tannic to eat raw, but when baked or stewed for a long time they usually turn a blush of red and become delicious.

The aroma of a raw quince, even a whole one, is very pleasant, and thus the term is useful in describing a nice attribute of some white wines.  It is somewhat difficult to describe because it is unique. A quince is a quince, in other words. But you could say the assertive aroma is somewhat like an under-ripe pear or hard woody apple, with hints of woodsy spice & cold blossoms.
            

Val di Falco Morellino Di Scansano 2004

The debut of this "super Tuscan" futurity prospect is impressive, right up to its glass stopper.  For about $20, this would be a fine wine gift because it's new, novel and modern, not to mention the wine inside is bold and an excellent value.

Val di Falco translates to "valley of the falcons", paying homage to historical tradition of falconry in the Casanuova area of Montalcino where the Corte Pavone estate is located.  Corte Pavone is one of several properties owned by Rainer Loacker and his sons and currently has an estimated 50 acres of very young vineyards planted in 2000 and 2001.  The entire operation, cultivation and vinification, is considered organic.

Val di Falco 2004 is a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah.  The lots were aged one year in 1/2 new French oak barrels, not filtered, and bottle aged 6+ months.  Just under 2000 cases were produced.  Son Hayo (Hajo) Loacker is Winemaker.

Tasting Notes: Appearance: Deep ruby, semi-opaque.  Aromas: Berry liqueur (a bit more cassis than framboise but in-between), rose floral notes, plus supporting hints of forest floor, licorice and spice.  The mouthfeel is medium-to-full-bodied with good structure and young tannins.  The berry flavors are richly layered and the finish is substantial and very dry.

Excellent value ($22).  Closure: Glass* stopper.  Alcohol content: 14.5%.

*The glass stopper closure makes a very nice presentation and was a good choice for this new label in particular.  There is a definite "snap" or "click" as the glass stopper is pressed in to its "seat" and the resulting seal is perfect after multiple uses.

Passionfruit

Passionfruit is a very common term for describing white wines, especially Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand.  And the flavor is popular in cognac-based cordials including Hpnotiq. 

Actually, this is an odd little fruit, with a tough outer shell and a pulp and seed interior.  To extract the juice, you scoop out the pulp and seeds and push the juice through a strainer.  You don't get a lot of juice from a single fruit, but the juice is thick and intense.

The aroma is intensely tropical and exotic, with elements of fresh cut tropical fruit cocktail, and the flavor is tart.  The juice can be used for making cocktails or sauces.

Bud Break Nashville Tennessee 2006

Today was the inaugural mowing of the lawn here in Nashville. And just in the past day or two, bud break has begun on the Cabernet Franc vines along the ditch in the front yard. These vines were rooted from pruned canes of vines rooted from Washington State Cabernet Franc prunings.

See the entire Photo Album.

Cold Blossoms

The peach tree in the back yard just started blooming this past week in Nashville. That reminded me again of a lot of wines that I've smelled. You know, there can be that hint of Springtime blossoms, subdued by the coolness of early Spring. It's floral, but not unbridled flowers. It's more of a subtle, clean, naturally dilute essence. This is what is meant when you read "cold blossoms" as a descriptor on Winewaves.

Starfruit

Starfruit (also known as Carambola) is not frequently used to describe wine aromas or flavors, but probably should be used more often for light crisp wild whites, such as Gruner Veltliner and some Sauvignon Blancs. The aromas and flavors range from grassy or green leafy, to lemony citrus/lemongrass, to granny smith apples, to sweet green table grapes. The aroma is a bit grassier than the flavor, and the flavor is fruitier (apple and grapes).

Gooseberries

Gooseberry is a common term used in describing the aroma and flavor of Sauvignon Blanc, but they are not all that common in supermarkets, and don't often show up in the everyday "food chain". They grow on deciduous shrubs, and there are different varieties producing a range of sizes and colors. The ones pictured above were purchased locally and were grown in Columbia.

The size of the berries is a bit smaller than they are pictured.  I would describe the flavor as a cross between white grapes and grapefruit, fairly tart/acidic, and bordering on "shrill". Inside, the flesh is the same color as the skin, and there are lots of very small edible seeds. And yes, the flavor is very reminiscient of many Sauvignon Blancs, especially those from cooler regions such as New Zealand.